Electrical Symbols On Plans

Hey, so I have a keyboard I want to power via an AC adapter, so medium story short, the back of the keyboard has the Centre positive symbol (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Centre-positive.svg), and the adapter has the Centre negative symbol (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Centre-negative.svg) (although the centre 'C' is reversed, so the open centre dot goes directly to the + on the left.). See diagram.



Should the polarity symbols match? All other specs are as per the product page/manual (http://www.akaipro.com/mp6-1): 6V DC 1A. Although no mention of the mA's on the adapter.



Oh, and the nib (ending bit of the adapter is yellow, and not black as per the product page linked above).



I sent a message to the manufacturer, but did not include the polarity part. The adapter was from an authorised dealer.



Thanks!




      

Hey all, new to the forum and had a few questions about the electric I plan on installing in my basement I am working on finishing.   Here is what the plans call for...



- Bathroom

  - 2 Lights, one GFCI, vent fan

- Home theater

  - Projector, Sound system, various other electronics

- General Lighting throughout

  - 14 Recessed lights approx 60 watt bulbs

  - 14 outlets

  - Mini bar fridge

I will have to run the line from the garage to the basement and my question is should I go 15 or 20 and will I need more than one line to support this?  Any info or direction you guys can give would be greatly appreciated!!



Tom
      

QUESTION:  can I run (2) 14-2 romex wires in (1) 3/4 BX Armored cable?



SETUP: I am finishing my basement and a few main floor circuits are intermingled with the basement lights and outlets.  In finishing the basement, all basement electrical will be on its own circuit. Therefore, I need to rewire some main floor items.



For instance, the main floor living room outlets go through the den area below in the basement. The 3/4 BX cable goes through the ceiling to the outlets.



PLAN:  I plan to cut the armored cable shortly after it comes out of the ceiling (main floor floor) and just connect the first floor outlets in a series using the proper bushing and BX cable ends. I will strap the BX cable ends down and the romex as soon as it comes out.



The electrical inspector already gave me thumbs up on doing this for the electric oven and cooktop (bigger wires of course).



I searched and couldn't find anything to this specific question.



Any input?



B
      

I am putting a theater area in my basement, but my electrical panels are also in the same room.  To keep the room symmetrical, it would look best to install the new panel two stud bays over and put the sconce in between - then it would match with the sconce on the other side.  I can't put the sconce on the other side further back because of a doorway.  I plan to paint the panels the same color as the walls so they blend a little better.



Anyhow, I attached a picture of the proposed layout.  The sconce sticks about 5 inches out from the wall.  Will the inspector approve such a setup?  I should still be able to access the panels without an issue, but don't want to do something against code, or stupid in some way.



Thanks!
      

I'm building a whole house everything system. It is a sixteen zone system with full AV distribution, 9 security cameras, about 70 speakers, ten 9.1 surround sound amplifiers, 6 PCs, KVMs, loads of networking gear, two dss, bluray, roku, squeezebox, NVR server, NVR viewer, etc. There are air conditioners in the Liebert MCR racks. The headend contains three 42U racks. Two of the racks are for AV equipment and the third rack is for the PC equipment.



Here is a detailed list of all the equipment and their electrical needs:



http://dl.dropbox.com/u/70589/MillerPlan.xls



You will see two tabs on the spreadsheet: Equipment and Cabinets. These contain very detailed information on all the devices going into the three racks. You will see that I specified 14 electrical circuits.



I have already purchased all the equipment except for the "APC UPS 280 watts" and "Furman power conditioners". If anybody experienced with residential systems with requirements like this could give me feedback on the electrical requirements and my proposed design it would be great, all feedback is welcome!
      

So we just bought a circal-1930s house, and one very large project looming is redoing the eletrical. The house has a mix of BX, cotton-wraped romex, and some very cracked romex running around the house. combine that with some very odd additions for outlets, bad light switch placement, it's just going to be a large project.



My father in law, a licensed electrician, has promised to do the rewiring of the house this summer. The problem is I plan to do some major renovations in the coming years (namely the kitchen).



I am already drawing up floor plans now so I can stategically think of where to put needed outlets, but should they be installed at this time? Is it worth the headache to install new outlets now and put them in their proper locations when the reno comes?
      

I have a 50 foot hdmi cable that is hooked to my TV, run through my wall to my basement then over and upto a closet where the cable is hooked to my surround sound. Unfortunately my basement ceiling is finished in drywall and there is no access to replace the cord. To make a long story short a cable TV provider came to my house to change out a box and broke the prongs on the hdmi cable. My question is, can HDMI ends be spliced or replaced somehow without replacing the whole cable.
      

I have a 1960s house with EMT throughout. 



I recently replaced 2 florecent fixtures in my basement with 4 LED lights in their own J-Boxes in the drop ceiling. I did the following:



1. Rerouted the the conduit from the light switch to the main j-box for the lights. (previously it was going directly into the fixture) 

2. Ran 4 foot whips to each jbox holding the LED (metalic 14# wires)

3. Cut the old spliced wire (that was just twisted and taped) and used a wire nut

4. Replaced the switch with a dimmer



The lights work great.  Noticebale improvement and the dimmer is excellent.



The issue is that the circuit for the kitchen is now tripping.  I told my wife its just a coincidence, but she is sure I caused it.  Its only happened 2x (1 day apart.  Nothing unusual running on the circuit, only the fridge and the gas stove which as not in use)



Can my "new" work possibly impact another circuit?   What should I check?  Any way to avoid re-doing my work?



Things I noticed / may or may not be relevant:

1. Some of the EMT is directly in contact with a copper water pipe

2. The switch / dimmer isn't grounded

3. The wires in the jbox were nasty and old.  There was corrosion on the jackets and the jbox.  Looks like some water leaked down fromt the laundy above at some point in the last 40 years.

4. At some point (months ago) when I was in the basement I touched some of the EMT and something that was plugged in I swear I feld a shock. (just listing everything I can think of).  I didn't think much of it at the time, but now my whole electrical system is suspect.

5.  The tripped circuit (fridge, MW, stove) didn't appear to be tripped.  The fridge wasn't on.  When I turned off and back on the circuit the aplliances came back to life.  Appliances less than 1 year old. 

6. The clock on the range was reset at one point but I didn't think I turned on or off the circuit.  The lights for the basement were switced off but still worked with the fridge circuit tripped.

7.  We had a huge electrical storm right before I did the work

8.  We have a "stablock" panel that the home inspector got all bent out of shape about.  Other than truning on and off breakers I have never touched it.

9.  Kitchen breaker and basement light breaker are adjacent in the box

10.  I believe kitchen and basement share the same EMT in places.

11.  I think I now have too many connectors in my j-box.  Will likely add an extension.

12.  I didn't use the red "bushing" on all my whips as I ran out of them, but I was careful with the metal sheath and really don't think any wires were cut. (besides if there was a short wouldn't my LED lights fail and that circut break?)



HELP.  I am happy to call a contractor to come in, but I don't have an electrician I trust yet and I'm scared bringing someone in before I isolate the problem a little.
      

I know this has been done to death but, just want to make sure that I headed in the right direction. O.K. I'm building a 12x16 shed and need to know what size wire to use. I plan on having lights, saws, mini fridge, deep freeze, air compressor and maybe a small a/c unit in the summer. I plan on having everything on different circuits like lights on 15A, fridge and freezer on 20A, have plugs on bench on 20A, air compressor on 20A, and mini a/c on 20A. I plan on using romex 14/2 for 15A and 12/2 for 20A. With sub panel http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051 or something like it. My shed is about 30' from the meter loop. So, what size wire do I use from the meter loop 6/2????? Do I need to use a ground rod at the shed? Thanks for looken!!!!!
      

I've been the owner of a 1930s era Colonial Revival that our first major project is to rewire the house. We have a 100A main box that is maxed out, a combination of cloth 2-wire, flex, and some cracking Romex along with some downright dangerous open wiring in the basement, tapped wiring in the kitchen and study, some gangboxes that were wallpapered over in the bedrooms that we assume were wall lights (we have similar wall lights in the bathrooms), inadequate outlets in most rooms, no GFI. Etc. Etc. In addition the bathrooms are small and lack wall switches or outlets (they have two pull-cord wall lamps, with one lamp with a outlet.



Here is a floor plan with electrical represented on the ground and second floor. Still working on mapping the basement and the attic (which has a 3/4 converted finished "bonus" room.



My Father-In-Law who is a licensed electrician has promised to gracefully donate a couple months of his time to rewire everything. Also a bonus in this is the majority of outlets are mounted on the baseboard trim and not in the plaster.



My plans are to go with a single 200A main, likely double the amount of outlets in each room, GFI where needed.



While I know some basics, I want to familiarize myself a bit more on what is the best approach to rewire. For instance should I look at running conduit in just one spot of the house, or should I run two on each end of the house? I plan to do some major remodeling of some rooms in the future, especially the kitchen and bath so what are the best ways to ensure I have an easier time with these remodels?