Generator Over Current And Fault Protection

I have converter a 3 phase 220 volt  air compressor to single phase. I need a  timed relay to start the

the system when the air pressure drops. Since it is momentary, it needs to be a timed relay with a short (1-2 Seconds) to prevent burning out the capacitors.



Can someone help me with the timed relay I need or how I can have the motor start when the pressure drops and kicks out when it reaches the top limit
      

found a crazy deal today as im a 'picker' and have been doing this since before it was a tv show. heres what i found, generac backup generators that the output is 90 volts of DC current. they run on nat gas or propane via a switch. my question is how can i use these generators to run stuff on my catering mobile taco/food truck or backup power for my house? i need AC current and according to literature on the web, the generators are 14kw and some are single phase and some are 3 ph.  i know that i can just drop a leg on 3 phase to get single ph. but how to get ac i dont know.



im guessing the engines would be kewl on a go cart and use a propane tank for a gas tank, right? any help on elec conversion would be appreciated.
      

Hello,

We're installing a steam shower unit & need to run new electrical wiring.  We have a few questions & hope someone can help!



We have three power cords (water pump, heat pump, steam generator) & none of them currently have plugs.  The specs are as follows:  3000W steam generator 110v - 30 amp GFCI breaker, 12 v lighting, 1.2 hp water pump 110 v - 30 amp GFCI breaker, & a 1500W heat pump 110v 12.5 amps.  It says you can run the heat pump off the same circuit as the rest of the unit.



Ok, so.. we're wondering what the easiest & cheapest way of going about this is.  We want it to be SAFE first & foremost, but also want to keep expense at a minimum.



Thank you for any advice you have!




      

sir

i have seen on this site------------------------------------------------------------120/240 for houses:  120 is line to ground, 240 is line to line



so got the point from this point that we have three phase connection so

120 is phase voltage and 240 is line voltage



but line voltage is=squareroot of 3 *phase voltage and (240 is not equal to sqroot of 3*120)

please send the answer on  ---------   as soon as possible
      

I am considering adding solar panels to my home to generate electricity.  I will not add batteries however (to expensive) so when the grid goes down I won't get energy from the panels (you need a special inverter and batteries) so I want to add a portable gas generator for those, hopefully, limited cases.



I just wondered how the solar wiring gets interfaced into my system (breaker panel?) and can I later add a transfer switch or interlock switch when I add the generator?



Or should I do that at the same time (perhaps the interface is complicated)?



Thoughts?



Thx
      

I have a small 19 gallon water heater in a small garage space, that was installed by some questionable handymen a few months back.  I just had the plumbing and septic finished so tested the hot water, only to find the element was already burned out.



I noticed however, that this 120v unit is wired via 10 gauge wire to a 30 amp double breaker.  This is questionable because I thought a 120v appliance would be wired to a single pole on the hot wire and run neutral to the neural panel area.



My question is, can I run the hot wire out of one side of the double breaker without safety issues, or should I definitely replace it with a single pole breaker?



I would normally not question the work, but everything these guys did already had to be adjusted, so I'm only naturally assuming this may need to be also.



If its safe, I would like to simply things and just connect the one hot and leave an open space in the other half of the double pole... Is this possible?



Thanks for your advice-
      

This is a bit beyond a DIY job, but some of you know that I just opened a new laundromat.  In doing so I took 10 dryers we had in storage for 2 years and installed them at the new location.  They are gas, but of course the controls are electric.  The fan motor is 240/208-120v.  The timer is 120v.  All the relays in the timers are 120, no transformers.  When we hooked everything up after two days of operation the customers complained that the time on the controls did not match their watch.  To our dismay the timers were counting down at twice the normal rate, ie. buy 6 minutes you only get 3 minutes.   This is crazy because all ten worked fine at the old location and now they are all counting down double time. 



I tinkered with the ground wire and even removed the ground to see if it would change.  Nothing.  I switched 120v hot phases and it solved the problem.  I rewired back to original and the problem returned.  I was stunned.  I then opened the sub panel and traded the two hot feeder wires from the main with each other to make the opposite phase and the problem on all ten dryers went away. 



We wired the building 120/208Y, 4 wire + ground.    Our old location was 240v delta 4 wire + ground.    Why would it do this?  I am really surprised this happened. I need to call the timer manufacturer because their engineer was stumped, also and had no idea why the timers were doing this.



What did we miss?



David
      

Been thinking I need a generator. Most likely a propane stand-by with electronic transfer switch. These things cost a bundle is it worth it?
      

I have a 1/3 horse sump pump. I've read it uses 1300-2900 starting watts (or I guess that means surge watts)



The generator I can get is for $140 and has 1400 peak watts and 1200 continuous. Now this will only be used to power the sump pump when power goes out.



Is it powerful enough? I have no way of testing it out prior to buying.



Its this brand, but a lower end model.



http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-s...AdIdZ357888894



the above model is sold out.



thoughts?
      

Hello All,



I'm about to "re-locate" some existing breakers and wires into a subpanel and have a few questions.



1) My existing hot water heater is wired with 2 conductor w/ground wiring (30 amp, #10 wire). Is this still Code compliant or do you have to have 3 conductor now as with dryers?



My existing dryer also has 2 conductor w/ground wiring (installed in 1999).



If I relocated it or the hot water wires/breakers to my new subpanel will they require me to upgrade to current code (3 conductor, if applicable)? The subpanel will attach to the Main Load Center which is where those breakers/wires are currently attached.



Main question is will I be grandfathered with existing wiring in only relocating the breakers/wires to subpanel?  I'm not relocating the appliances or recepticles themselves.



2) I have 3 conductor w/ground wires for my cook top. It only requires 2 conducter w/ground however. They wired the ground/neutrals together but has flexible metal conduit running to the cook top itself. Should I remove the ground and bond it to the metal conduit?



Thanks, Ralph