4 Gang Box, Grounds?
4 gang switch box. power into this box. All wire is 12 Guage.
Neutrals and hots are easy to nut together, 5 at most in 1 nut. But what about the ground wires? There will be 9 total ends that need to be connected, 9 seems like alot under 1 wire nut.....or is it? lol Can i make up 2 sets of grounds and use a jumper between the 2 wire nuts? Do they make a wire nut for 6 wires? Similar Tutorials
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Hello,
I currently have one light switch which operates an outlet in one of my bedrooms. I want to add a ceiling fan that has independent switches for the fan and light - but I want to make sure i'm wiring it correctly and safely. Current (First Pic)- Live hot feeds into bottom of switch (bottom insert hole) and the all of the bedroom outlets (pig-tailed) tie into the bottom of the switch on the screw. Coming out of the top of the switch is one hot which feeds to a single outlet. All of the neutral and grounds are tied together. New Plan (Second Pic)- Remove the constant outlet hot from the screw, add a new hot wire to the top of new switch and run a wire up to the attic for fan. Add another hot wire from the bottom of that switch to the third switch and run another wire up to the attic for the lights. Re-connect the constant outlet wire to the screw of the last switch. Connect all the neutrals and all of the grounds together. At the top of the ceiling, connect the neutrals and grounds together with the fans neutral and ground. Connect the fan hot to the fan switch hot, and the fan light hot to the light switch hot.
wanted to get feeback on my crude wiring diagram i put together for my small bathroom remodel. does it appear to be sound or am i way off base??
details: * 20A dedicated circuit * 12/2 wiring * outlet's will be GFCI * double gang box will contain: * timer unit for exhaust fan * double switch for heat lamp and lights * Ground wiring is not shown but each fixture/outlet/switch will be connected to ground wire * by calculations, the 34cu box is fine for the number of conductors/size of wiring. per box specs could handle 15/12g wires. * the scanner cut off the bottom part of the picture, the 2 lights on the right are fed from the same switch, neutral's connected together. F = Exhaust Fan L = Light HL = Heat Lamp T = Timer switch S = Switch H = Hot N = Neutral Wire Nuts are in the box connecting the pigtails Thank you for your input.
I'm using some lampholder fixtures for lighting in my garage and I'm wondering what to do with grounds? There is nowhere to attach the ground wire to the box or fixture, so what do I do with it? Neither the box or fixture is metal. And what do I do with all the grounds in the switch box?
This is kind of a complicated question, but I think I have figured out how to do it right. I wanted to run it by some folks here before going to the city code enforcer. See the attached diagrams for details.
I am planning a fairly elaborate lighting scheme for my home theater area, mostly because I plan for the theater automation to be a hobby for me. (I'm an electrical engineer) I want to have banks of lights that I could later choose to group differently onto dimmer switches. For example, I have six can lights. Some people I have talked to think I should dim the front four together and back two separately. Some think I should dim the front two together and back four separately. Some say I should dim them all together. So I decided I'd run each group of two cans to a junction box, run the switches to a junction box, and then wire the switches to the lights in the junction box - then I could later change it if I decided it should work differently. In addition, this would keep the junction boxes the dimmers were in free from extra wires, since I plan to buy nice dimmers that are fairly deep and would take more space in the switch boxes. And if I find that using switches differently would make it more intuitive, I can change which switch controls which lights easily after the fact. This would also allow me later to possibly control the lights with an automated system. There are some track lights and rope lights, as well as a couple receptacles that would all come back to the junction box where they'd be connected to the switches/dimmers. I am bringing in power from two circuits to balance the lighting. I plan to put some of the lights on one circuit and some on the other. The second circuit has some other stuff on it already, so it has less load left over, so most stuff will go on the first circuit. Also to save on wiring and make running wire easier, I was planning to use 14/3 wiring where possible. Any given 14/3 wire would always be connected to only one of the circuits (no shared neutrals). The attached files show my exact plan for each circuit. Note they both share the junction box in the upper right corner of the pictures, they also share the switch banks. This allows me to decide which switches control which lights, as well as decide which lights will be powered on which circuit to balance them properly. Note that the track lights are each 2 circuit track, that's why I'm running 14/3 to each. See the attached files for circuit #1 and circuit #2 I am running 14/3 NM to the switches. I was planning to have two switches share one 14/3 cable. I am also running 14/3 to each group of two light groups that I want to control separately. I've also attached a diagram from the perspective of the junction box. I also attached an example circuit on how I plan to use the 14/3 wire. Here are some other decisions I made: - The junction box will be PVC 8x8x4 (256 cu. in.) All the wires coming into the box add up to 70 cu in. so the box should be plenty large. - All the grounds from both circuits will be tied together - The neutrals for both circuits will always be kept completely separate (NO shared neutrals) - No 14/3 wire will ever carry power from more than one circuit (this would violate the shared neutrals anyway) Even though this is kind of elaborate and for hobby, I want to be sure to do it safely and up to code. Does anyone see anything wrong with my plan? Thanks, Daniel
Hey everyone - question about home wiring that was done when the house was built about 20 years ago (which putting it delicately...is very shoddy at best). I'd like to think of myself as fairly knowledgeable in basic home wiring...but this one has me baffled and I really hope someone can help.
I am redoing a screened-in porch at the back of our house. There is currently a working outlet, and single-pole switch that turns on an outside bug zapper, and a wire running coming into a second switch...then leading into nothing in the ceiling (presumably for a future ceiling fan / light install that was never completed). I gutted the entire porch and using one of those audible voltage testers, discovered the wire than ran into the second switch / ceiling box did NOT work. Not thinking much about it, I tried figuring out how the first switch (to that outdoor bug zapper) was wired. Most of the wiring for that switch and the outlet I mentioned is behind the plywood sheathing of the house...so it's near impossible to figure out where it goes. Initially it LOOKED like the power from the circuit panel came into the outlet first...and then went out to the bug zapper switch. (Why did I think this? The outlet had a B/W wire coming into it...and another B/W going out back into the wall somewhere. Tracing that wire along the basement foundation best I could...it looked like it went right into the bug zapper switch). So wanting to completely eliminate the bug zapper switch, I disconnected all of the wires that were connected to the outlet to figure out which set was leading to it. Here's where I got confused. When I did this and re-tested voltage at the outlet, one set of wires was live...and the other set was dead. And that makes perfect sense. Yet the bug zapper switch STILL worked. OK - so my conclusion: the power for this bug zapper switch isn't coming from the outlet. No problem. But just because I was near it, I decided to also check that 2nd switch / ceiling wire combo...and what do you know - it was LIVE! I got super excited it was working but then super baffled because I didn't do anything to that ceiling wire at all. In fact - all I did was DISconnect 2 sets of wires at a nearby outlet. Confused but happy, I was ready to pack it in for the evening and re-connected the incoming / outgoing wires back to the power outlet. Flipped the circuit breaker on. No issues. BUT - now all of a sudden the 2nd switch / ceiling wire that magically started working was NO longer working - just like it hadn't been since I started this whole process. Logic is telling me it's obviously got something to do with the outlet wiring...since that's the only thing I messed with. But why would the ceiling wire all of a sudden become LIVE when the wires going into the outlet were all disconnected? It's certainly a first for me. Can anyone help me figure this mystery out? Thanks gang!
I have 2 light switches in my entry and need to add a 3rd. So…I removed the old 2-space metal box and will be replacing it with a 3-gang old-work box.
The issue I’m anticipating having is: The old knob & tube wires coming in aren't very long. As the locations of the openings for the wires in the 3-gang box is a bit different than the old box, I’m worried that the wires now won’t be long enough to now reach the light switches. So, my questions are... If I need to add 6” or so to some of these wires, is it okay to just splice a new piece of 14-gauge wire onto them?? I simply didn't know if you're allowed to do this. If so, is this just a matter of using a plastic twist cap to connect them…with everything being done inside the new box? Thanks so much for your advice.
Hey,
I'm located in Ontario/Canada and I'm in the process of installing some recessed lights in my uninsulated basement. I was going through the electrical code and noticed that in an 8in^3 electrical box, it is only permitted to have 2 wires and 2 wire nuts. I have 3 wire nuts (ground, neutral and hot) and two wires coming into each switch. It seams odd that the light box would not be sized correctly considering its CSA approved. Have any of you come across a similar problem ? As a side note, I'm also finding it hard to jam 6-8in of cable and 3 wire nuts in this small box !
Installing a 4-ton condensing unit outside (240V, 1 ph, MCA= 26A, MOP= 45A). There will be a HVACR rated 45A breaker at the panel. Plan to install the 60A non-fused disconnect with GFCI recepticle (GE U065NA1010) next to condensing unit. Plan to use #8 wire since distance from panel is 80 feet, but unsure of the number of wires. How many conductors will be required since the disconnect will have a 120V GFCI recepticle. Will I need 2 wires (2 hots and 1 ground) or 3 wires (2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground)? I'm thinking #8 wire with 3 conductors (2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground).
hello
I am dealing with what seems like a strange issue with a single pole switch, and I am royally baffled even after reaching out to someone a little more knowledgeable than me. Yesterday: Replaced with a single pole switch with an identical one that I painted (for decor reasons). Two wires were going into the old, and the same 2 wires are attached to the new one. However, the light it controls fails to come on despite light bulb being good, and outlet located 4 feet below the switch fails to operate. With voltmeter in hand I tested voltages. At the switch: 3 wires feed into it, all whites capped together, and 2 of the 3 blacks (A,B,C) are hot with 110. A is hot and was/is connected to one of the terminals of the single pole switch. B and C (hot) are capped together with a jumper that goes to the other terminal of the single pole switch. So I am royally baffled as to why a switch would be wired with 2 hot wires going into it. I swear it has been like that since we bought the house a year ago, and the light worked fine. I simply replaced the switch with the same wiring, and now it doesnt work. I even touched both hots (A and C) independently to wire B which (using common sense) should be the load wire to the lamp, but the lamp did not come one. Other outlets in that circuit do not work either. They get 110 to line and ground, but not across the outlet. I hope I was clear in explaining, and I hope someone can possibly shed some light so I can resolve this. Thank you
What would be the best way to remove the existing box?
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