Switch To Oil Furnace

I searched for this answer and could not find it.  I am not sure which brand of furnace I have.  When I opened the cover it says the model number is  G1N80AT100D14B-2.   My furnace works great on heat.  Now that it is hot outside I would like to run the fan setting to get some extra circulation in the house.  I don't have A/C.  How do I hookup my furnace to only operate the fan?  I tried using the "on" setting on the thermostat on both the heat and cool setting but that didn't work.  I am a novice so please walk me step by step.  I am hoping I just switch one of the jumpers on the circuit board.  By the way, I don't believe that my thermostat is even hooked up to the cool setting at all.  Thanks in advance!
      

remodeling basement ..don't want to tape into my furnace for heat ... have one large room 480' sq. and am thinking of using two or three  baseboard electric heaters [possibly Cadet                                                              6 Ft. 1500 Watt 240 Volt Electric] as heat source on outside walls ..out side walls insulated and basement not real cold ...I'm doing electrical now ..do these need to have there own independent run or can they be wired to 3 basement pull chain lights which I seldom use and are on a 15 amp circuit .........the basement remodel has 3 separate runs [ 2 lights 1 outlets ] ..thanks for any advise
      

OK, I took everyone's advice and ran a separate 6/3 w/50A male inlet receptacle back to the panel area so my RV generator can feed the transfer switch.



I'm ordering a Reliance 51406C (50A, 6 circuits).  The generator (Onan 5500) puts out 45A, but my house only needs a small number of circuits because it has mostly natural gas appliances and gas furnace with radiators.



I was wondering if anyone has hardwired one with 6/3 Romex?  The small compartment the unit has for hardwiring looks pretty tight for 6/3 plus the wire nuts.
      

Hello



I recently upgraded my old fuse panel with a circuit panel.  One of the circuits contains mostly lights and also my furnace.  The wire on the lights are 14/2 and the breaker is a 20 amp breaker.  Can I replace the 20 amp breaker with a 15 amp Breaker or do I need to change all the wire.



Help



Thanks
      

Hi, I have a fluorescent light I'd like to remove and add a tracklight.



Luckily it's in the basement with an unfinished ceiling.



here's the circuit map as is now:



1. breaker to fluorescent light.... connections inside

2. fluorescent light to switch at the top of the stairs

3. switch to the light in the stairwell. This terminates the circuit.



The wiring is all 14/2



I'd like to replace the the fluorescent light with a track light, but I'm not sure how to continue the circuit to the switch in the stairwell.



Is it safe to...



1. bring the cable from the breaker to the junction box.

2. connect the black wire with the black wire on the light AND the black wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette.

3. connect the white wire with the white wire on the light AND the white wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette

4. connecting a 6 inch bare 14 gauge wire to the box ground screw, then using a marette, connecting it with the ground wire from the cable entering the box as well as the one leaving and also the ground wire from the light.



Will this work and is it safe?
      

I'm wiring two lights to one switch with power coming into the switch. All the diagrams I see show the connection of the two lights at one of the lights(if that makes sense). Can all of the connections be made at the switch box if theres room? Basically a wire from each light and the power wire all run to the switch box and connected.
      

I have 2" grey pvc conduit running from my basement underneath a patio and terminating vertically from the ground a few feet past the edge of the patio (in the dirt).  I want to install an outlet on the stone wall at the edge of this patio.  I do not know how to properly return the wire from that open 2" vertical conduit back to the wall a few feet away.  I assume I need a junction box on the existing conduit, but can't find one with a 2" inlet.  I would like to keep the connections buried if possible, return with a smaller conduit to the wall and up to a mounted outlet box (weatherproof).  Any suggestions about how to manage the conduit connections from the vertical pipe?



Tom
      

My wife and I are doing some minor kitchen remodeling in a few months (new sink, countertops, backsplash, adding disposal).  I was looking at the electric to see what I was in for.  There is currently a switch located where you would locate the switch for a disposal... but it shuts off the dishwasher.  WHAT?  WHY?



So I look into the dishwasher circuit.  20a at the panel, wires run in conduit to the switch location.  Out of the switch box comes 14/2 NM-B (WHAT, undersized!) comes out under the drywall and over to the junction box on the dishwasher.



So, what do you guys see as the solution here?  I was thinking to run a new 20a circuit, with 12 gauge THHN from the panel to the switch box, then splice that to a new piece of 12/2 NM-B to the dishwasher.  Question: can the NM-B just lay behind the dishwasher like that?  Should it be BX? 



The 14/2 NM-B would be removed and 12/2 run from the switch to a new outlet under the sink for the disposal.  So, I would end up with 2x 20a circuits: one for disposal, one for dishwasher.



Does this sound like a solid plan?
      

I'm currently working on a house built in the 1930's. The electrical is a mess with a combination of a switch panel  and a fuse box with most of it still being knob and tube. I'm running a new electrical line to the air handler in the basement. This is due to it currently being tapped off a light circuit which also feeds an outlet in the kitchen, a bedroom, and half the outlets upstairs. (There's no rhyme or reason to the current electrical setup). 



  My main question is I'm running  12NM through bored holes in the studs to the air handler. Once I get to the handler and run it down to where it enters the appliance and switch box will I run in to codes problems. Should this run in the basement be inside a conduit or is NM cable okay? 

  Any guidance would be appreciated. 
      

Greetings,



I am looking to wire a sub-panel in my barn to support a general workshop.  Loads would include standard woodworking tools (including 220V table saw), welding, air compressor, etc.



The house has 200AMP main breaker and minimal in-house loads.  Dryer is gas, Oven and cooktop are gas.  Water heater is off the oil furnace.  I think the biggest single load is the well-pump and/or fridge compressor.  We do have sporadic toaster oven, hairdryers etc.  Otherwise its just lights, ceiling fans, flat-panel tv, stereo...



We had 4" conduit installed to the barn, so there is plenty of room to pull a big cable.  The entire run from the house panel to the barn totals around 155' (probably less, but rounding up)



My questions a



Can I pull a 100AMP sub-panel from my main house panel as described?


Would 4/0,4/0,4/0,2/0 aluminum service entrance cable be a good choice for this run?  Could I do it with something lighter?


Could I put an additional sub-panel in the garage (about halfway to the barn) by interrupting the run?  The garage subpanel would have a 220V plug for possible welding and/or electric car charging.  Would this require a separate run?


Are there any other considerations I should be thinking about in planning this?




Thanks for any thoughts you can share on this! 



Cheers,



pete