Timer Or Sensor For Outside Lighting

I purchased a screw in dusk to dawn sensor and when it get dark the light comes on but continuously blinks. When I unscrew the sensor from the light and screw the light bulb directly into the liight socket the light stays on.
      

Just bought some LED lights for the porch, but I realized the new digital timer in wall switch I purchased to replace the on/off says it's for incandescent only.  Been looking online, but couldn't find anything specific for LEDs, what should I use?



Thanks,
      

i am going to run 3/4 pvc in 2 foot trench to the 6x6 i have burried i want to hook up a twist lock outlet and a switch to also shut it off. along with a 140amp single pole timer how would i wire this

Thanks

Bill
      

I have an older Kohler whirlpool (Tea for Two) that I installed and worked fine (occasional slight delay in starting).  I shut off the breaker to work on a vanity light installation.  When I threw the breaker back on, the tub would start on its own.  At first could shut it off.  Then had to turn the breaker off to keep it from coming on spontaneously.  The only way I can use it is to turn on the breaker and then wait for it to come on.  It stops after about 20 minutes (normal I think).  But then won't restart or restarts/tries to restart later, sometimes multiple times.  I have to shut the breaker off, or it will keep going on or trying to go on.  Runs fine when it gets started.  I am thinking it is the starter button and/or a timer problem.  Any thoughts?
      

This is a bit beyond a DIY job, but some of you know that I just opened a new laundromat.  In doing so I took 10 dryers we had in storage for 2 years and installed them at the new location.  They are gas, but of course the controls are electric.  The fan motor is 240/208-120v.  The timer is 120v.  All the relays in the timers are 120, no transformers.  When we hooked everything up after two days of operation the customers complained that the time on the controls did not match their watch.  To our dismay the timers were counting down at twice the normal rate, ie. buy 6 minutes you only get 3 minutes.   This is crazy because all ten worked fine at the old location and now they are all counting down double time. 



I tinkered with the ground wire and even removed the ground to see if it would change.  Nothing.  I switched 120v hot phases and it solved the problem.  I rewired back to original and the problem returned.  I was stunned.  I then opened the sub panel and traded the two hot feeder wires from the main with each other to make the opposite phase and the problem on all ten dryers went away. 



We wired the building 120/208Y, 4 wire + ground.    Our old location was 240v delta 4 wire + ground.    Why would it do this?  I am really surprised this happened. I need to call the timer manufacturer because their engineer was stumped, also and had no idea why the timers were doing this.



What did we miss?



David
      

I have an outdoor light fixture that I am trying to replace.  The house was built ten years ago.



When I removed the original lamp, I noticed one of the two leads was wired to the ground, and one was wired to the black wire, which is hot per my current sensor.  There are three wires in the box - black, ground (bare copper), and white or neutral, all from a single romex cable.  Unfortunately, I do not recall where the white was when I removed the original. 



I wired the new lamp per the instructions, something I have done many times before - black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Nothing.  The lamp and bulbs are brand new, and I have tried four separate bulbs.  I checked the black and neutral with my current sensor and with the switch on and the lamp installed this way, both show as hot. With the lamp not installed, the switch on, and the wires disconnected only the black shows as hot.  The switch is single pole, and appears to be wired correctly with a black to each screw on one side and a copper ground on the other.



Assuming the new fixture was bad, I reinstalled the old fixture correctly -  black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Still nothing. No light, and I confirmed the bulb is good by putting it in another lamp.   The only way to get it to light is to connect the neutral in the lamp to the bare copper ground.



I capped the wires, turned the circuit back on, and identified all the outlets, switches and fixtures on the same circuit.  I opened every one of them up (four lights and eight outlets) and found three (one switch and two fixtures in another room) where multiple commons connect.  All were properly connected.  My outlet tester shows all outlets as "correct".  I found no instances of grounds connected to commons or vice-versa.



Any ideas?  Is it proper to wire this thing the way I found it?



Thanks for any and all advice!
      

I have a problem on my outdoor lighting.

I just changed to LED bulbs, when I turn off the lights, it came back on but dimm.





can someone help?



the switch is from my pool remote. is it the switch relay that is causing the problem?



thanks
      

Hi.  This is not exactly home-improvement-related, but I'm hoping some of the electrical gurus out there can answer my question.  I am building an underwater fishing light.  It will basically be a sealed green acrylic tube with LED bulbs in it, powered by a 12V DC battery.  It will be submerged between 2-5 feet.  I imagine it will be used approximately between 2-6 hours at a time, so the cable will not be submerged in water or a wet area permanently. 



Obviously I am doing this to save $$ (they are expensive otherwise), and I find myself wondering why I can't buy an inexpensive extension cord (lamp-cord-style) and use it for the power from battery to light.  I started looking at garden lighting wire, but that stuff is very expensive.



Would auto electrical wire (with shrink tubing) be sufficient (though I'm not sure I can find shrink tubing with enough length)?  Speaker wire?  LOL. 



Any suggestions would be appreciated!



Edit: One thing I forgot to mention is that I don't want the power cord to be heavy at all.  Nice and light is the key!
      

My lamppost bulb turns on a few hours after sunset. I use a cfl bulb which has worked fine. I attached a picture of the sensor that I bought which is just like the sensor I have now. Are these hard to install or should I hire a pro?
      

I want to run a new 12/3 to wire a room added on the back of the house. One circuit will be 6 wall outlets. The other will be a ceiling fan and 4 recessed cans. Can I add 2 outdoor lights-using standard outdoor bulbs-to the same circuit as the ceiling lights? Do I use the wall switch(box properly sized) as the junction for the outlet wiring and feed to wall switch for outdoor lights?