Pros: What Do You Think About This?
I've only been here a short while but I've seen enough posts from non-professionals that are difficult to understand because they are not familiar with electrical terminology that I thought we needing something so they can better communicate with us what the problem is.
I created an image with the basic items you'd find in a house thinking if we all got together and created a thread to help the non-pros explain their problems we could ask for it to be a sticky requesting non-pros read it before asking their questions. Let me know what you think and suggest any additions, changes, etc you think would help us help them. Similar Tutorials
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NOTE: This thread will be updated with additional images as they are completed. In the meantime, please feel free to post suggestions for adding to the thread but DO NOT POST YOUR ELECTRICAL PROBLEM INQUIRIES HERE!
The following is intended to help the non-professional with describing an electrical problem. By using the proper terminology, you can help the professionals here help you. Take the time to look at the images and their descriptions and use that to describe the problem you are having.
I'm new to the forum and I don't mess with electrical issues. I leave it to the pros. My question, I'm looking at buying an older home. It is upgraded to a 200 amp panel, has 3 prong outlets, but the owner said he never ran a gound from the box. What are the pitfalls / safety hazards of not having grounded outlets? thanks,
Hi all,
I have read a few posts here about others having problems with receiving a shock while touching the faucet or water from the faucet in certain rooms. Today I experienced this problem in my kitchen. I was able to narrow the problem down to one breaker on my box, specifically one set of outlets. My question is can a faulty outlet cause this to happen? I currently have the breaker in question flipped off until I can replace the outlet and see if that fixes the problem. There haven't been any changes to the electrical or plumbing in quite a while. This happened completely out of the blue. Any advise that you might have would be greatly appreciated. Jess
I am in the process of installing a submerisble pump into my well, but I have a few questions I'd like answered first.
The pump is a 1HP, 230V pump with 8.2amps and KW 0.75. It is rated at 12/2 w/ ground. 1) Is there any reason I shouldn't install a 230v wall mounted switch to turn this on/off if I want to kill the power. For now a pump start will control it for my irrigation system, this would just be in addition if I ever wanted to shut things down and not have to rely on using the breaker, which I understand shouldn't be used as a switch. 2) What about installing this on a plug, so that I can plug it into a receptacle vs. hardwired. (*I'll explain my reason later) 3) My understanding is 12gauge wire is rated for 20amp, but it looks like the owners manual calls for a 25amp fuse. Should I use 20amp or 25amp? *The reason I ask about the switch and the plug is because I plan on using some wiring that is already in place. I already have 12/2 w/ground installed in the location of the pump start. It is currently wired for 110v as it was placed there for a 3/4hp jet pump I planned on installing, but ended up going with a cased well instead, so I figure why not utilize the existing wire, but switch it to 220 instead of 110. Basically, swap the 20amp 110v switch out for a similar rated 230v switch and replace the receptacle with a 230v receptacle and just plug this pump in. I question the use of the plug because I thought I had read somewhere it was ok to use one, but when unpacking the pump last night, I thought I read never to install it on a plug, so now I'm unsure. Why would they not want it on a plug? I guess it's not a big deal as I can always run wire into the j-box, but I hate using pigtails if I don't have to. Thanks for any info on this...heading to the parts store in a while to grab the fuse and anything else I need.
First off, I have read a majority of the posts concerning this subject and they have been very helpful and answered many questions, but I still have a few.
I am wanting to run power to a detached shed that is around 100 feet from the house. However, due to the location of my main panel and the easiest route to run the power, I am looking at running cable about 270 feet. I measured it out to exactly 263 feet, but figured it would be best to go longer. I am wanting to run at least 60 amps to the shed, as I won't be using it for nothing more then power outlets (basic power tools) and lights. Here are my questions: 1) What cable would be best for such a long distance run? 2) Would a 60 amp subpanel be sufficient for this job. I am looking at only 4 circuits: 1 for internal outlets, 1 for lighting, 1 for motion sensor light outside and 1 for external outlet. I am looking at the following panel: http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051 I have seen some marked 70 amp and wondering if they make a difference: http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051 3) Also, I will be installing a 30 amp RV connector circuit from my main panel to the where I park my Camper Trailer, which is a run of about 75 feet. What would be the best cable for this sort of run under ground? Can I run both cable together in the same conduit until I junction if off to where I will be installing the plug for the camper? 4) Would the following be the circuit breakers to use: 60 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051 30 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051 I think that is it for now. Thanks in advance for all your help!!
I am siding a cottage/house and came to the outside plug. It is a GFI but I found it kept tripping. I actually changed to GFI because it looked as though it sparked. While changing I noticed the white wire was loose ... so I thought this could be the problem. I replaced the GFI plug and the only thing that was plugged into it was a circular saw. Again, it tripped. My thought atre that it could have been wired wrong or have other items on the run. I believe an outside circuit should be all by itself? The only other reason that comes to mind would be if someone drove a nail or screw into the hot wire. Any suggestions and possible remedies?
I'm trying to figure out how exactly this should be redone... right now there is a NM cable going from the panel though the rim joist and outside straight down into the ground and out about 2 ft into the sump well then it jus dangles there with a female plug end connected to that which the sump pump then plugs into... well this actually shorted out the other night and created a wonderful noise and sparks...
how should I redo this? right now its not even GFIC... just straight into a 20 amp breaker... I was thinking put an outside receptical on the side of the house run that straight thorugh the back of it into the rim joist and to the panel... have the outlet on that a GFIC outlet then run a underground line from that to the pump using UF cable with a similar female plug end inside the well (the well is about 11 ft deep and the plug is about 1 ft from the top right now... then that would just plug into the GFIC outlet on the side of the house... that outlet would of course have one of those clear enclosures around it that is water tight... suggestions? comments? code violations?
Hi all!
I'm trying to install an outdoor box for my low voltage lighting controller unit. I have an electrical junction box that's split from indoors and leads to a post lamp. I'm wondering how I split this junction box off to a simple 110 receptical for my outdoor lighting controller. I've attached a picture just in case I didn't explain well. Thank everyone for the help!!!
Hello again Gurus,
Will a double pole 15A 277v light switch work as a shut off for my air handler? I had to run all the electrical prior to them installing the central air and I wired a double pole switch from my 15A double pole breaker. I ran to the line/load ie black/white to the bottom posts on the switch. Thinking they can just run black/white from the air handler to the top. When the switch is UP> Live power to air handler. If it it's down (OFF), it means they can service the unit. Is my thinking correct on this? I couldn't find any other switches. Thank You ~S
So we just bought a circal-1930s house, and one very large project looming is redoing the eletrical. The house has a mix of BX, cotton-wraped romex, and some very cracked romex running around the house. combine that with some very odd additions for outlets, bad light switch placement, it's just going to be a large project.
My father in law, a licensed electrician, has promised to do the rewiring of the house this summer. The problem is I plan to do some major renovations in the coming years (namely the kitchen). I am already drawing up floor plans now so I can stategically think of where to put needed outlets, but should they be installed at this time? Is it worth the headache to install new outlets now and put them in their proper locations when the reno comes? |