What Is A 2x40w Light Bulb?

Hi everyone,



I'm pretty new to the whole homeowning/do it yourself lifestyle, and have a question about the light fixture in my kitchen.  Recently 2 twisted cfl bulbs went out, probably within 1-2 days of each other, and I am having a hard time figuring out how to replace the bulb.  I believe the lights in my kitchen are considered recessed lighting.



So when the first light went out, I hastily grabbed my step ladder and tried to twist the bulb out.  I should have looked more closely at the fixture because when I started to twist, the bulb popped in my hand.  No big deal, just a bunch of debris all over the place.  I looked at the fixture and it said I should pull straight down to remove.  Doh!  The second light went out a day or two later and this time I pulled straight down on the bulb to remove.  To my surprise the bulb came out, but at the ends of the bulb were 2 bare wires.  I had never seen this bulb in stores before.



Anyways here are some pictures I took of my fixture.  Can anyone tell me how I am to replace my busted bulbs?  Thanks!












      

I bought a landscape light at a thrift store to play around with.  It is definitely a well light.  It has a black shell and a round, rather flat bulb.  The connections are exposed on the back of the bulb and the wires screw directly into the bulb.  Looks similar to this:







The only difference is the bulb frame has a little clip that hooks onto the black part to hold it in.  I am interested in what kind of light this is?  I'm assuming it's low voltage?  How can I tell?  Also, what are well lights good to light?  I believe the bulb may say GE.
      

I'm using very bright incandescent lights through chickens lamps to increase my metabolism. The reds and yellows that come out of incandescent bulbs do this. My question is how can I increase the production of reds and yellows? Is there anyway I could change the wiring in the chicken lamp to force it to produce more reds? I heard that putting a 130 volt bulb in a 120 watt socket will produce more reds? Any other ideas of mods I could do to the lamp? I was also wondering if red heat lamps produce more reds and yellows then regular incandescent light bulbs or do red heat light bulbs just have red coated paint which makes them appear like their producing more red?
      

In a previous thread (Wire suitable for underwater usage), I enquired about what cord types would be suitable for underwater usage because I was building a submersible fishing light to attract baitfish.  Well, the light is done, and the bulb "farthest away" from the battery is by far the brightest in the chain (I hesitate to say chain since they are wired in parallel). 



Attached image "photo 1" is a picture of the light I made.  Notice the bulb all the way to the left is far brighter than the rest.



All bulbs used are the same spec, and look like this:



To wire the bulbs, I cut the flange off with a Dremel tool so that they would fit in the tube.  Two pair of them have their terminals soldered together (neg to neg, pos to pos...that's the "gap" you see in the lighting), and the first bulb in line is upside down, with it's terminals facing the incoming wiring.  The first bulb receives the wiring from the main line, then hookup wire is used to jump from those terminals to the next set, etc. 



There IS one anomaly with the final/far left bulb.  When I was cutting off the flange, I accidentally cut too far on that piece, basically severing the terminals from the bulb.  So, when wiring it into the circuit, I had to improvise and soldered the hookup wire directly into the solder points located on the bulb itself (instead of the underside).  Hopefully you can see what I'm talking about in attached "photo 2."



I have no idea why this anomaly would make the bulb brighter though.  Can anyone think of any other reason the bulb would be brighter?  Unfortunately, I cannot do any readings on the individual bulbs because I did not notice this until everything was soldered into place and the lamp sealed/waterproofed).
      

I have four of these recessed light fittings in my bathroom ceiling:

http://s447.photobucket.com/albums/q...5.jpg&newest=1



I can't for the life of me work out how to change the bulbs (little 50W halogen ones).  The two ways that have been suggested to me (using duct tape on the bulb to unscrew it, and just pulling the whole fitting out) have failed miserably.



Any ideas ?



Thanks All
      

Hello there,



I just installed a new fixture in my dining room. It has 5 MR16 halogen bulbs. When i turn on the light switch, the lights are gradually turning on to full brightness. The process takes a between 5 to 10 seconds.



I removed one of the bulb and noticed it took a bit less time and continued until I had only 3 bulbs and then the lights are turning on instantly.



So I think its obvious that the fixture is drawing too much power from the circuit. My question is, why? What tests can I dk to find the cause? Is it a faulty switch or faulty wiring?



Thank you!
      

I have a dusk to dawn light that is not working. The bulb appeared to be blown. I installed a new bulb and it still does not come on.  What would you recomend to check? What is the best way to check the sensor?
      

My lamppost bulb turns on a few hours after sunset. I use a cfl bulb which has worked fine. I attached a picture of the sensor that I bought which is just like the sensor I have now. Are these hard to install or should I hire a pro?
      

Hello. I'm a new home owner and DIY-er. I have 3 fluorescent lights  in my basement. I just replaced the fixtures' older ballasts with new  T8 ballasts in the first two lights and they work fine. I am having  trouble with the third light's wiring to the ceiling. I cut and removed  the old ballast without paying much attention because I was able to wire  the first two lights without any problem. I connected the new ballast  to the bulb sockets in the fixture, just like I did with the first two  lights. When I went to connect the ballast's black and white power lines  to the ceiling lines, I was thrown off by a red wire, which I guess is  connected to the light switch.  In addition, this light is connected to  the one of the other fluorescent lights and both are controlled by the  switch. I have attached  pictures of how I have it wired.



The way I have it wired now,  the other light turns on and works fine when the switch is flipped.  However, this light has the bulb flicker and then not turn on. If anyone  can tell what I'm doing wrong from looking at the pictures, I'd  appreciate any help! Thanks!
      

I am redoing my basement, and i am making the electrical runs for the recessed lights in the ceiling. I am using 14 gauge wire, and i have 16 recessed lights with 65 watt bulbs in them, however they are rated at 75 watts max. assuming someone after us may put in the max bulb, the total watts would be 1200, equaling 10 amps. When all of the new wiring is done, i am going to have an electrician connect the circuits to the circuit breaker (using 15 amp breakers) however since i am not comfortable doing this myself, and i would like to use the lights now, can i connect them to the existing 12 gauge wire (this will not overload the breaker... i already checked what else was plugged in to the electrical outlets).



to recap:

The power draw will only be 10 amps at MAX. capacity

existing wiring is 12 gauge/ 20 amp breaker

electrician WILL connect 14 gauge wire to breaker using 15 amp breaker



*THIS WILL BE TEMPORARY*