New Panel, Service Conduit Extension
Hi all
I'm renovating a rental home I bought. It has the original 90 year old fuse panel and I'd like to replace it with a modern panelboard. Here's a picture of the current setup: I'd like to demo the inset fuse box cabinet and then mount a new panel on the wall to the left. The service conduit goes inside the stucco into the building. I'd like to cut it, put in junction box, and a sweep and extend the service to the left to the new panel I called our electric co. to get the power disconnected and strangely the rep told me "Oh, people usually just work on it hot". Is this true/feasible?? Your advice is appreciated Similar Tutorials
How to Lay Sod - The Right Way!
- Make sure the green side faces up! And, there are a few more steps if you want to ensure a nice looking lawn. Prepa ...
The Difference Between Volts, Amps, and Watts
- This article explains the difference between Volts, Amps, and Watts in an easy-to-understand non-scientific way. T ...
Water is Leaking from the Toilet – What do I do? (How to replace the wax seal for a toilet.)
- If there is water leaking from the toilet, you need to make sure that you know from where the water is leaking. Che ... Similar Topics From Forums
Q1-
isn't rigid conduit supposed to bottom out in hub on new service panel? I thought so, installed mine and the threads look fine but only threaded in about 8 turns then stopped. Same on the other end. Q2- i'm trying to figure out how to brace my service entrance rigid conduit in my garage wall to my service panel. the conduit is 1 1/2 inch and the studs are 3 1/2 (2x4) so there's no room for cross bracing behind the rmc.i was gonna brace then strap but no room(stucco exterior) any ideas?? Pics are attached any help is greatly appreciated- Steve
I have a grounding question. I am installing 400a service to my new home. We ran 350MCM wire underground thru 3" conduit from the 2ndary terminal (moped) to the house into a 320A Cooper B-Line meter. From the meter we ran 2 sets of 4/0-4/0-2/0 thru the wall to 2-200a breaker panels ("standard practice", according to my electrical supplier). The ground wire (#4Cu bare) from the grounding rods comes up from the ground and we're curious if there has to be a special splice connecting the ground wire to each breaker panel or can we run thru one breaker panel to then next, say by connecting the ground wire to a ground bus on one panel and running that thru to the next with #4Cu bare or #6Cu in conductor. Different electricians are suggesting different methods and the electrical inspector is unsure, but seems to be leaning towards the "special splice". Any feedback would be appreciated.
Appreciate any help with this.
Background: - new to us old house, got three quotes for an upgrade to 200A service plus addition of three new circuits in conduit with receptacles (Chicago area, conduit is code in just about every town around, I have no issue with that); - existing service to house was overhead, opted to keep it overhead and not bury it; - the quote says, exactly: "Installation of a 200 amp 240 volt overhead electric service complete with riser, outdoor meter socket with a 200 amp disconnect, 40 position circuit breaker type distribution panel..." etc.; I understood from discussing the work with the contractor we chose that install overhead service meant to include the work and materials needed to upgrade the line coming from the pole at the alley to the house to handle 200A capacity; paid 50% down on quote; - the morning the boss and tech show up for the work, boss says we already have a 200A overhead, which I seem to recall the home inspector mentioning months ago before the closing (makes sense because the overhead runs to a single room addition put on several years ago), but boss was the guy who came to the house to quote the job in the first place, didn't mention anything about the existing overhead capacity at the time; - the work gets done, seems fine; tech left without going over anything with us but whatever. Final bill matches the quote to the dollar. There is no indication that there were any surprises during the work. Since the quote says installation of overhead service and they didn't need to replace the overhead lines from the pole I think the final bill should be lower than the quote. The distance from the pole to the riser is about 40 feet. Should I expect from the wording in the quote that the final bill should be lower than the quote because they didn't have to touch the existing overhead? About how much lower? We didn't go with the lowest quote, didn't beat him up on price and the total bill is quite a pretty penny, so I think he would be making good money either way. I know there is no way for someone to tell me an exact dollar figure here based on a blog post, but I'd like to get some kind of idea so I can start my conversation about the final bill. Thanks for any help out there.
I am installing central air conditioner in our 80 year old house. Debating between one high velocity system or two conventional systems.
We have 100 amp service with an electric dryer, stove and oven. Water and heat is gas. The HVAC contractor told me that he spoke with the electrician who assured him that we would not need to upgrade service but add in a sub-panel. Any thoughts? What are the risks of staying with current electrical service and adding A/C? What are the risks of upgrading to 200 amp with such old wiring? Is one high velocity system better than two conventional systems? Note I am cross posting based on another question I had in the HVAC forum. Thank you in advance for all your help.
My existing service entrance consists of an external Meter can mounted on the outside of the garage wall directly behind a SD Main Breaker Panel (MBP) with a 150 amp main breaker. In order to support upgrades, I am installing a second MBP (200 amp) inside the garage in the wall cavity right next to the existing panel.
Local code requires that the upgraded Meter can be purchased from the City Utility. I have already confirmed with the local inspector that either 4/0 Al or 2/0 Cu SE cable are acceptable for both the existing and new MBP. My question is what is the code requirement for getting the 3 SE cables run from the dual lugs to the new panel? Can those conductors run into the same wall cavity where the existing panel is installed? If so, I'm certain they can't go through the same conduit nipple that connects the back of the meter can to the existing MBP. Can they route in behind/above/below the existing panel and through a hole in the wall stud to gain access to the adjacent stud bay to get to the new panel? If not, do they need to be routed out of the meter can on the external wall in conduit over to the next stud bay and then enter the wall there to gain access to the new panel? If external conduit is required I would expect it must be metallic as opposed to PVC. Best Regards, Ted
I want to run Romex from a j-box, that is in the ceiling of my basement, to the main panel. I know that I can run Romex from the box along the face of the joist (not the bottom), but what are my options once the Romex gets to the wall? The joist I am using, conveniently enough, meets the wall ideally for where the panel is. However, I've read that I need to run the Romex through EMT, or some form of conduit.
If you look at the picture I've attached, the panel is mounted on a piece of plywood that extends out underneath the joist. Can I just staple the Romex to the plywood and then run it into the panel without using any conduit? The cast iron pipe makes using any conduit quite a problem. The cable you see is MC Lite, but I want to replace it with Romex. There are going to be up to 9 more lines coming into the panel this very way.
My new 200a semiflush panel came with an L shaped nailing flange that comes forward out to the face of the panel. (pretty ugly on nice new panel)
Q-Is this "extra" flange designed to be bent back over the nailing flange after mounting and before stucco? maybe to put the flasing in between? maybe dumb question but i just want it to look right and to do it only once. Picture of my panel attached
In a large bunkhouse we need to add a second range, water heater, and kitchen outlets. The existing panel is 125 AMP (with breaker), and don't want to redo entire panel. A consultant said to install a 200 AMP drop, with a panel to handle the additional load. Would you then feed each of the panels from that drop as main panels, or use a new 200 AMP panel as the main, and the 125 as a sub-panel from that? I assume in either instance, the grounding would be done as a 200 AMP service. Just realized if each was a main panel, the new one couldn't exceed 75 Amps, or total would be over 200. Any other ideas appreciated.
Hello All,
First post, working on a complete bare-stud remodel of my home, so I will try to be descriptive enough. I have a 150 Amp service to the house (which I might upgrade later) with a meter socket and breakers outside. I am running into the house (more than 10') to a 125 Amp 20 space ML. I have too many 15 and 20 Amp circuits now for the panel and need to change it out. The house is rather sprawling, so the rather than tie rooms together in a confusing way, I broke the circuits down per minimum requirements... almost none of them are near capacity. I am going to run the big stuff back out to the exterior panel/service however I still need more space in my interior panel. What I REALLY need is just a 40 circuit 125 Amp GE panel but I don't think those exist because (guessing) *most* 40 circuit scenarios need more amps. What I wanted to do was upgrade to a 40 space panel (only been able to find a 200-Amp). I realize I am still limited outside by the service and have already run 4/0 aluminum. I know I am not going to go anywhere near the 200 Amp capacity, I just need the space. Is this ok? Any reason I shouldn't use a 200 Amp MB panel? Thanks!
I'm having quite the time finding an electrician who will quote this. Just about all of them say that what I need is to upgrade my main panel but I want to install a new main panel that is a part of the meter base outside and make my current 100A panel a sub. Maybe you people can tell me why nobody seems to want to do this. Here are a few shots of the existing meter (note what is apparently a 60A base here)
and a shot of the conduit headed underground. Like most homes built during this era, the conduit makes a right turn underground to enter through the cinderblock, ending up coming into the back of the main panel. This conduit encloses a 4 wire feed. edit: no, actually it is only a 3 wire feed which is a problem if I want to convert the original main panel a sub. Here's the existing panel. It's a 60's era Square-D split panel with a 30 amp sub panel for the finished basement. Those are low voltage wires to circuit taps for my home energy monitoring system btw. The reason I don't want to upgrade this panel are as follows: We won't be expanding the electrical west of this panel any more. All planned expansion (240v car charger in Garage, planned 3 season room with grid tie Solar on the roof) will be to the east. Upgrading the panel will require major surgery to the walls. Due to the way the original basement is engineered there, the walls have an intricate stud pattern behind the existing panel. I'd pretty much have to rip out a 4' section and redo it to make the access large enough to handle a 200A panel. Adding additional circuits to an upgraded panel will require an act of God due to the finished basement construction. There are no raceways for additional circuits. Based on this, my thoughts were to create a new 200A main panel outside based on something like the GE model TSM420CSCUP loadcenter. Here's a shot of this panel: This particular panel has room for three 2-pole breakers in addition to the 200A mains. I'd add a 100A 2-pole breaker for the existing panel, with the other two reserved for the garage/solar expansions. The issue with the contractors who have quoted the job appears to be the conduit going to the existing panel. I'm not sure what's wrong with it but it is apparently not compliant with current code. Obviously the bonding needs to change, new grounding electrodes need to be driven, and a water pipe ground needs to be established to the new main panel, but what else is required? I'd like to throughly research all the code considerations here so I can approach a contractor from a more knowledgable perspective then determine the best way to perform this upgrade. Due to POCO coordination and the need to cut household power for the duration of the job, I have no desire to DIY this one... So what exactly is wrong with the conduit running from the existing meter base to the existing load center? Why is everybody telling me that I can't do essentially what I've described above? What are the relevant code sections that will apply to this job? Should I be chatting with my AHJ about local considerations now or should I wait until I have the code requirements down pat (assuming the latter here)? |