Electrical Near Plumbing?

I was wondering how I can do that.  I know there is a small bunch of testers available, but which one?  I am moving into a new place, and want to do this myself.  Any ideas are welcome.   
      

Hi all,



I have read a few posts here about others having problems with receiving a shock while touching the faucet or water from the faucet in certain rooms. Today I experienced this problem in my kitchen. I was able to narrow the problem down to one breaker on my box, specifically one set of outlets. My question is can a faulty outlet cause this to happen?



I currently have the breaker in question flipped off until I can replace the outlet and see if that fixes the problem. There haven't been any changes to the electrical or plumbing in quite a while. This happened completely out of the blue.



Any advise that you might have would be greatly appreciated.



Jess
      

Does the bonding lug on pump motor of jetted tub only have to be used if water lines are copper or metal? If CPVC water lines is there a need to bond and if so how?
      

Hello,

We're installing a steam shower unit & need to run new electrical wiring.  We have a few questions & hope someone can help!



We have three power cords (water pump, heat pump, steam generator) & none of them currently have plugs.  The specs are as follows:  3000W steam generator 110v - 30 amp GFCI breaker, 12 v lighting, 1.2 hp water pump 110 v - 30 amp GFCI breaker, & a 1500W heat pump 110v 12.5 amps.  It says you can run the heat pump off the same circuit as the rest of the unit.



Ok, so.. we're wondering what the easiest & cheapest way of going about this is.  We want it to be SAFE first & foremost, but also want to keep expense at a minimum.



Thank you for any advice you have!




      

Helicopter flies inches from LIVE electrical power lines so daredevil repairman can fix them



    But because the power lines serve  400,000 people, the line cannot be closed down, meaning the work needs  to be done while the line is live. 



   Highlighting  the dangers of the work, the commentator on the film says: 'These lines  are still energised; we are flying right at them in a big hunk of  metal filled with jet fuel.'



Read mo     http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz1spBXQymz
      

I have a 20 amp circuit running into my addition that I planned on running one baseboard heater from so I don't have a junction box. Now I'm putting one in the bedroom and one in the ensuite. I'm OK with using the thermostat on the heater instead of the wall so I'm wondering how to run the circuit from one baseboard heater to the next using one circuit and separate thermostats. They are back to back separated by a wall and I haven't closed in one side of the wall yet.
      

I'm not sure this is the best place for this post but it certainly applies here. I'm looking to purchase a wire tracer. I'd like it to have these options, which I'm pretty sure they all do from what I've seen so far. Obviously, energized the wire and then trace its whereabouts; some type of decent sized pencil (item used to trace the wires itself) so you can get into smaller places; be able to do A/C, D/C and maybe phones lines too? I've seen the small cheesey one at the big box stores (I think it was made by GB) and wasn't really impressed. I'm leaning towards the Textron unit for phone lines only because the use and somewhat reasonable price. I know the high speed ones are what I'm looking for but I'm not willing to spend $500 on it- I don't think I'd use it enough to justify it. Are there any others ideas/items that I've missed? Any information will be appreciated. Thanks.
      

Live in California...  Pool and backyard remodel



Running a new 100Amp line from the main electrical house box that is 200amp to the new Hayward ProLogic Pool sub panel for the pool equipment. Is that #2 wire or #4?



The pool installers are telling me that they need 50 amps for the 3 pumps, 2 pool lights and gas heater that I have. 



The reason that I'm running 100amps to the sub panel and only using 50amps for the pool is because there is electrical going to the overhang and backyard that can be controlled by a remote that talks to the ProLogic sub panel.



I have a overhang/BBQ area that has 17Amps for the refer and BBQ, a water feature which is about 15-20 amps, 2 ceiling fans for the overhang, low-voltage lights for the overhang, low-voltage landscaping lights for the backyard only. I think that is about it.



Inspector is telling me that I need a GFCI at the sub panel. Is this a 100amp GFCI prior to the sub panel being wired? Or does each piece of equipment need a GFCI?



I am having a licensed electrical contractor do this, but I'm just trying to do my homework because some of them are not knowledgeable about pool wiring... 

(BTW, I had a licensed contractor out yesterday, to give me a bid and he said that they didn't make a 100amp GFCI, which of course I did see on the internet, not using him!!)
      

I am new to the forum so kindly bear with me.  I live in Mesa, AZ and have just had a PEX repipe done to bypass my copper hot water lines.  (God don't ask!  A real problem here with slab foundations.  I already had my kitchen jack hammered once.  It is NOT pretty!).

It seems really odd to me that just because it is a dedicated circuit  that code would not require that circuit to be GFCI protected.

I have a dedicated 20 amp duplex 12 AWG wire outlet under the sink and it is within a few inches of the water lines.  The outlet serves a switch for the garbage disposal and serves my dishwasher which is always hot. 

  Now that I have all my maple cabinets pulled out I thought I might change the outlet to a GFCI just to be safe.  I have a ground wire, a red wire, a black wire and a white wire.  As it is dedicated I think I should use the LINE sided instead of the LOAD side but I am not sure where the wires should go.

Could someone give me info on this?  It would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.
      

Hi.  This is not exactly home-improvement-related, but I'm hoping some of the electrical gurus out there can answer my question.  I am building an underwater fishing light.  It will basically be a sealed green acrylic tube with LED bulbs in it, powered by a 12V DC battery.  It will be submerged between 2-5 feet.  I imagine it will be used approximately between 2-6 hours at a time, so the cable will not be submerged in water or a wet area permanently. 



Obviously I am doing this to save $$ (they are expensive otherwise), and I find myself wondering why I can't buy an inexpensive extension cord (lamp-cord-style) and use it for the power from battery to light.  I started looking at garden lighting wire, but that stuff is very expensive.



Would auto electrical wire (with shrink tubing) be sufficient (though I'm not sure I can find shrink tubing with enough length)?  Speaker wire?  LOL. 



Any suggestions would be appreciated!



Edit: One thing I forgot to mention is that I don't want the power cord to be heavy at all.  Nice and light is the key!