320 Meter Socket
Do I need to install the lugs in 320a meter socket
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I bought a LED fixture that fits in a 4inch can
http://indoors.pricegrabber.com/show...s/m/928501559/ The thing iswhen I pushed the fixture in I niked the black wire from the can's socket. What should I do replace the socket or should I just take the can's socket out and also the LED socket out and use marettes? The thing is I don't have much cable from the box the romex is about 6 inches long and was cut to lenght!!!
I have a 30amp wall socket in my garage, connected to two 20amp fuses in my garage sub box. I bought a 60 gallon air compressor rated 230v 15amp (non-reversible???). I am under the impression that I can use this compressor with the socket I have. The compressor did not come with a plug but did have the wires. One red, one green, one white. The plug I bought to the match the socket has instructions for one black wire (hot) one green (ground) and one white (neutral) I guess my question is, would the red wire be my hot wire? Does everything else sound ok?
My existing service entrance consists of an external Meter can mounted on the outside of the garage wall directly behind a SD Main Breaker Panel (MBP) with a 150 amp main breaker. In order to support upgrades, I am installing a second MBP (200 amp) inside the garage in the wall cavity right next to the existing panel.
Local code requires that the upgraded Meter can be purchased from the City Utility. I have already confirmed with the local inspector that either 4/0 Al or 2/0 Cu SE cable are acceptable for both the existing and new MBP. My question is what is the code requirement for getting the 3 SE cables run from the dual lugs to the new panel? Can those conductors run into the same wall cavity where the existing panel is installed? If so, I'm certain they can't go through the same conduit nipple that connects the back of the meter can to the existing MBP. Can they route in behind/above/below the existing panel and through a hole in the wall stud to gain access to the adjacent stud bay to get to the new panel? If not, do they need to be routed out of the meter can on the external wall in conduit over to the next stud bay and then enter the wall there to gain access to the new panel? If external conduit is required I would expect it must be metallic as opposed to PVC. Best Regards, Ted
I am installing 200 amp residential service. From the meter socket I am doing a very short run into the crawlspace to a 200 amp fused disconnect switch. From the disconnect switch I am doing a 60 foot run to the 200 amp panel. The run between the disconnect and the panel is all within the crawlspace interior ( heated ). Do I have to use ACWU cable or is there a cheaper alternative? I also need to isolate the bonding so is 4 wire configuration very common ? This is a Canadian question specific to British Columbia codes.
I have a fan assisted oven which draws about 12A maximum but the nearest socket outlet is already part of a ring main which is pretty fully loaded so I decided that it'd be best to plug it into the other ring main in my house and the nearest socket is about 15metres away, would a 2.5mm flex be ok for this or should I opt for a 4mm? Or would a 4mm have a knock on effect on something else
I have read and searched a bunch on wire size and I wondered if you guys could confirm that #2/0 copper is fine to run from the meter base to the panel. Upgrading to 200 amp service, 200 amp base and 200 amp panel. From what I gather its ok for service wires at 200 amps, but in other applications its rated for less. For what its worth, the poco is running #4/0 to the the meter for the new service.
I have a grounding question. I am installing 400a service to my new home. We ran 350MCM wire underground thru 3" conduit from the 2ndary terminal (moped) to the house into a 320A Cooper B-Line meter. From the meter we ran 2 sets of 4/0-4/0-2/0 thru the wall to 2-200a breaker panels ("standard practice", according to my electrical supplier). The ground wire (#4Cu bare) from the grounding rods comes up from the ground and we're curious if there has to be a special splice connecting the ground wire to each breaker panel or can we run thru one breaker panel to then next, say by connecting the ground wire to a ground bus on one panel and running that thru to the next with #4Cu bare or #6Cu in conductor. Different electricians are suggesting different methods and the electrical inspector is unsure, but seems to be leaning towards the "special splice". Any feedback would be appreciated.
I am installing a new semi flush 200a meter/breaker panel. the neutral meter lug is bonded to the panel, and comes into the breaker side to a common bus. There is no ground bus bar
Q- do i need to install a separate ground bus for my circuit ground(s) and ground rod, and if so, do they need to be bonded together? or can i just use the common bus for all grounds and commons if there is adequate space?
Hello All,
First post, working on a complete bare-stud remodel of my home, so I will try to be descriptive enough. I have a 150 Amp service to the house (which I might upgrade later) with a meter socket and breakers outside. I am running into the house (more than 10') to a 125 Amp 20 space ML. I have too many 15 and 20 Amp circuits now for the panel and need to change it out. The house is rather sprawling, so the rather than tie rooms together in a confusing way, I broke the circuits down per minimum requirements... almost none of them are near capacity. I am going to run the big stuff back out to the exterior panel/service however I still need more space in my interior panel. What I REALLY need is just a 40 circuit 125 Amp GE panel but I don't think those exist because (guessing) *most* 40 circuit scenarios need more amps. What I wanted to do was upgrade to a 40 space panel (only been able to find a 200-Amp). I realize I am still limited outside by the service and have already run 4/0 aluminum. I know I am not going to go anywhere near the 200 Amp capacity, I just need the space. Is this ok? Any reason I shouldn't use a 200 Amp MB panel? Thanks!
I am instaling a remote 200 amp meter base 200' from the shop what size wire do I need to run from the meter base to the shop?
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