Recessed Lights
how do you remove a wire from push-in connectors
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I've installed two dimmer switches in the bar area of my basement. It's the dial type, where you can push the dial in to turn the light on or off, or turn the dial to dim the light. One dimmer operates the recessed lights in the ceiling, and the other dimmer switch works a pendant light that I have over my bar. The dimmer for the recessed lights works totally fine. They turn on, off and dim. The pendant lights, on the other hand, only turn on and off. They for some reason will not dim. I checked the voltage on the pendants to see if maybe it was an issue of the switch being a high voltage dimmer operating low voltage pendants, and the pendants are 120V with 75 max wattage. I'm at a stand still. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Do any of you have suggestions? I took a couple pictures, not sure what good they'll do. The best I can do for a camera is my iPhone, so they're not the best quality.
I am planning on installing recessed lights in my basement. The ceiling is currently unfinished, so I have complete access to it. Would you suggest I use 5" or 6" lights? Also, I have attached a picture of dimensions and the small circles are where I have the lights going. Using a total of 15 lights in 3 rows. Is this too many lights? Is the spacing correct?
I have an older house I which I need to replace/update some romex wiring. I was planning on turning of the power to the circuit, remove the devices from the wall box and then remove the box. I was hoping to use the old wire to pull the new wire. My problem is how to remove the old wire from the cable staple so it will be lose to use for pulling. Any suggestions?
Can you install 6 recessed light off of one circuit by starting at a switch that is designed to turn an outlet on and off for a lamp that sits on a table. i've determined all of the outlets in one room are on the same circuit. The max wattage that will be used in that room if all recessed lights and TV etc are on would be approx. 1,500. the electrical wire in place is 14 g.
Hi everyone,
I'm pretty new to the whole homeowning/do it yourself lifestyle, and have a question about the light fixture in my kitchen. Recently 2 twisted cfl bulbs went out, probably within 1-2 days of each other, and I am having a hard time figuring out how to replace the bulb. I believe the lights in my kitchen are considered recessed lighting. So when the first light went out, I hastily grabbed my step ladder and tried to twist the bulb out. I should have looked more closely at the fixture because when I started to twist, the bulb popped in my hand. No big deal, just a bunch of debris all over the place. I looked at the fixture and it said I should pull straight down to remove. Doh! The second light went out a day or two later and this time I pulled straight down on the bulb to remove. To my surprise the bulb came out, but at the ends of the bulb were 2 bare wires. I had never seen this bulb in stores before. Anyways here are some pictures I took of my fixture. Can anyone tell me how I am to replace my busted bulbs? Thanks!
Hey,
I'm located in Ontario/Canada and I'm in the process of installing some recessed lights in my uninsulated basement. I was going through the electrical code and noticed that in an 8in^3 electrical box, it is only permitted to have 2 wires and 2 wire nuts. I have 3 wire nuts (ground, neutral and hot) and two wires coming into each switch. It seams odd that the light box would not be sized correctly considering its CSA approved. Have any of you come across a similar problem ? As a side note, I'm also finding it hard to jam 6-8in of cable and 3 wire nuts in this small box !
I need to replace a damaged non insulated 16awg push on female connector that is for a range element. Is it necessary to only use non insulated high temp replacements?
Having a brain freeze, if someone could take a moment to explain this to me, it would be greatly appriciated. I am wiring four recessed lights in a bedroom, off one switch. I am going to grab power off an outlet. Does the power have to go into the switch box first and then out to the first light? and then on to the others? Can I get power from an outlet and then wire each of the lights and bring the last one to the switch box? I dont want the switch to control the outlet, just the recesed and I am trying to determine where I can get the power from and if it has to go into the switchbox? I am drawing a blank.
Thanks!
I am redoing my basement, and i am making the electrical runs for the recessed lights in the ceiling. I am using 14 gauge wire, and i have 16 recessed lights with 65 watt bulbs in them, however they are rated at 75 watts max. assuming someone after us may put in the max bulb, the total watts would be 1200, equaling 10 amps. When all of the new wiring is done, i am going to have an electrician connect the circuits to the circuit breaker (using 15 amp breakers) however since i am not comfortable doing this myself, and i would like to use the lights now, can i connect them to the existing 12 gauge wire (this will not overload the breaker... i already checked what else was plugged in to the electrical outlets).
to recap: The power draw will only be 10 amps at MAX. capacity existing wiring is 12 gauge/ 20 amp breaker electrician WILL connect 14 gauge wire to breaker using 15 amp breaker *THIS WILL BE TEMPORARY*
hi everyone.
i am installing 4" recessed lighting throughout my main floor. my house was built in the 40's and the previous owner installed drywall over the existing lath and plaster ceiling. so I've cut a trench down the center of my room to drill floor joists to run wiring and cut my holes for the new lights. the lights are fire rated and do not require insulated cans for a traditional installation in a drywall ceiling. question i have is with the additional 1/2 to 3/4" of lath and plaster above the drywall, should these lights now have insulated cans or should i be fine with the cans I've got? there is no insulation in ceiling. any suggested would be appreciated. thanks d |