Moving A 220 Plug

Morning people. I'm installing a chimney style range hood for a friend of mine and he wants me to leave the plug wire on instead of hard wiring it. This would be permanent. Reason being is so he could remove it himself at a future date to tile the wall. This means I'd have to put a receptacle on the wall next to the vertical duct and it would be hidden behind the vent stack cover. It wouldn't be easily accesable so I'm thinking that's a code violation anywhere you go. From what I found it's a grey area. Any thoughts? Thanks
      

I am in the process of installing a submerisble pump into my well, but I have a few questions I'd like answered first.



The pump is a 1HP, 230V pump with 8.2amps and KW 0.75.  It is rated at 12/2 w/ ground. 



1) Is there any reason I shouldn't install a 230v wall mounted switch to turn this on/off if I want to kill the power.  For now a pump start will control it for my irrigation system, this would just be in addition if I ever wanted to shut things down and not have to rely on using the breaker, which I understand shouldn't be used as a switch.



2) What about installing this on a plug, so that I can plug it into a receptacle vs. hardwired.  (*I'll explain my reason later)



3) My understanding is 12gauge wire is rated for 20amp, but it looks like the owners manual calls for a 25amp fuse.  Should I use 20amp or 25amp?



*The reason I ask about the switch and the plug is because I plan on using some wiring that is already in place.  I already have 12/2 w/ground installed in the location of the pump start.  It is currently wired for 110v as it was placed there for a 3/4hp jet pump I planned on installing, but ended up going with a cased well instead, so I figure why not utilize the existing wire, but switch it to 220 instead of 110.  Basically, swap the 20amp 110v switch out for a similar rated 230v switch and replace the receptacle with a 230v receptacle and just plug this pump in. 



I question the use of the plug because I thought I had read somewhere it was ok to use one, but when unpacking the pump last night, I thought I read never to install it on a plug, so now I'm unsure.  Why would they not want it on a plug?  I guess it's not a big deal as I can always run wire into the j-box, but I hate using pigtails if I don't have to.



Thanks for any info on this...heading to the parts store in a while to grab the fuse and anything else I need.
      

i am replacing a meile washing machine (220V) to a new LG that is 110v

i want to convert the present 220 plug to make a 110 outlet.

can i just use the black, white and ground and cap the red?
      

Hi,



Upgraded my cordless Dustbusters at home with the new CHV1410 model, it works great except what was my surprise when I found out Black & Decker is no longer making Dustbusters that charge automatically on the wall mount.



Instead (and I was told this by their customer support when I called them) ALL the new models have a DC plug. I hate these, not only do you have to take the extra step of plugging in the vaccum each time when you hang it on the wall... mine being mounted down inside a bathroom cabinet, this makes it a pain hunting for the wire... but these DC plugs are weak, I've seen them give out with daily repeated plug-in-unplug use.



I decided to wire up the old style wall charger on the new vaccuum, using a few of the parts from the old dustbuster. I figured out how to do it (its not as hard as it sounds) but I was wondering about the polarity of the charger. If you hook the DC charger up to the wall mount backwards, will it destroy the battery? How do you verify which wire goes on which side.



Thanks for any advice - jeffpas
      

We just got a used hot tub.  It ran fine where we purchased it but since we got it home, it has not run.  We installed a new breaker for the hot tub and an GFCI outlet outside.  The hot tub inself has a GFCI installed on it.  If we plug it into the GFCI outlet it runs for a few seconds and either trips the circuit inside or the hot tub.  Is it necessary to have a GFCI outlet outisde if the hot tub has one?  We are thinking that this may be our problem..redundancy.  Can we install a regular outlet outside instead of the GFCI outlet?  When we plug it into a regular outlet it runs.  We want to make sure that this is safe before proceeding.
      

I'm trying to figure out how exactly this should be redone... right now there is a NM cable going from the panel though the rim joist and outside straight down into the ground and out about 2 ft into the sump well then it jus dangles there with a female plug end connected to that which the sump pump then plugs into... well this actually shorted out the other night and created a wonderful noise and sparks...



how should I redo this? right now its not even GFIC... just straight into a 20 amp breaker...



I was thinking put an outside receptical on the side of the house run that straight thorugh the back of it into the rim joist and to the panel... have the outlet on that a GFIC outlet then run a underground line from that to the pump using UF cable with a similar female plug end inside the well (the well is about 11 ft deep and the plug is about 1 ft from the top right now... then that would just plug into the GFIC outlet on the side of the house... that outlet would of course have one of those clear enclosures around it that is water tight...



suggestions? comments? code violations?
      

Hello everyone,I have a question about a forklift battery charger i bought. Ok,its an exide forklift battery charger 36 volts. It weighs a ton so i am having to run a 25 foot extension cord to it. My question is,my 220 wall outlet has three holes so i went to lowes and made a 220 extension cord. Now i get to the ac cable coming out of the charger that hooks to the extension cord(plug was cut off),there are 4 wires coming out of the cable green,white,red, and black......the guy at lowes said i could buy a 3 prong plug for it to plug into the female end of the extension cord because one of the 4 wires is probably neutral and i wouldnt have to hook up but the green,white and either the red or black.....is he right? Inside the charger the red,white and black all go to big fuses and green to ground. Also above the fuses it says "factory set to 480 volts ac". I guess my question is,will this charger only work using a 4 prong wall outlet(mine only has 3) and with 4 prong plug hooked to cable coming out of the charger itself or is the guy at lowes right in saying that only the red OR black wire has to be used? Sorry if this is confusing but ive searched and searched online for 3 days and havent found anything. Thanks in advance for any help-Kevin
      

Ya know when your g/f or wife says, 'Don't you DARE talk down to me?'... well, I AIN'T your g/f or wife but what i IS is so DYI challenged that anything but the most basic explanation will cause my brain to short circuit.



To prove how DYI-tarded I am, I bought a used staking washer/dryer because it was what I could afford.. but now I can't plug it in. The plug is a large crows-foot deal but my outlets are standard USA deals.



I know it can't be as simple as changing the cord to a standard 3-prong.





KENMORE STACKING WASHER/DRYER  MODEL NO:  417.90802992

WASHER 120/240V

DRYER   240V

APPROX 4 YEARS OLD

EXCELLENT CONDITION



... the part number on the plug is E11808



Any suggestions (unless i starts with 'shove it up your') are appreciated.



Thank you - Mick
      

I have 3 bedrooms on 15 amp circuits, 14 gauge wire. Original wiring is one bedroom is on one circuit and the other 2 bedrooms on another circuit. The wall switches in each switched the top half of an outlet in each room. I converted the wire at the wall switch to a 110V feed from the outlet and ran 14/3 from the switch to the ceiling for a ceiling fan. I replaced the outlets since the jumper was cut to isolate the 2 plug ins for switching. Is this whole scenario code compliant?
      

I have heard it is unsafe to plug faulty toasters into a 2 prong outlet as there is no earthing, however by design, the toaster's heating elements are kept insulated from the actual metal frame is this not so?, hence technically if there is nothing wrong with the toaster, this should be ok, correct?