Once Light Circuit, Multiple Switches

i have 3 switch sets in my house that are giving me absolute fits.



#1  kitchen switch, controls the light over the outside door




    Code:

   

3 sets of lines coming in,



line from the breaker panel (power)



line to the ceiling lights 



line to the outside porch light.

i cannot get this 3 line to work without tripping the breaker every time i turn the switch off



#2 bathroom switches




    Code:

   

power feed line



line to the light over the medicine cabinet



line to the second switch to control the exhaust fan.

same issue as the first set, flip the switch and trip the breaker (different breaker from the kitchen switch)



#3 living room switch and plug controlled via switch




    Code:

   

 power feed line



outside porch light line



line to wall switch to control the lower wall outlet

flip switch, trip breaker



the switches i have are "1 pole" am i using the wrong switches for this job?
      

Hi,



I would like to wire a switch to be able to cut the power to the ceiling mounted outlets that feed our garage door openers. Running new wiring to them will be a bit cumbersome, so I am hoping to avoid that. The ceiling outlets are powered by light fixtures in the garage (one near by each outlet). There is a 3 wire romex cable running from the light switch to the first light and another one between the lights, and then regular 2 wire romex cables from the light fixtures to the outlets. The red wires in the 3 wire cables to the lights are switchable, the black wires are always hot.



I mainly want to be able to cut the power to the doors when we are away on vacation, and the reason for that is that one night both doors somehow opened up - I have no idea why. I'd hate for that to happen when we're away. Unplugging and plugging in the openers is a bit of a hassle due to the high ceiling.



I thought about wiring in a switched outlet so that I could just reach up with a long handle of some sort and switch off the power to the outlet. It would not be ideal, but definitely easier than getting the ladder out and unplugging the door openers.  However, there is possibly another option that I'd like some input on if anyone cares to comment. I believe I could wire in a switch on the wall next to the light switch that would allow me to cut the power to the black wires in the 3 wire cables. This would cut the power to the ceiling outlets and anything downstream from there (possibly an outside light, I would need to check on that).



My question is, are there any potential issues with this sort of wiring? Is there perhaps any code violation if both hot wires in a 3 wire cable can be switched off separately?



Thoughts?
      

Hello everyone,



I am trying to replace a 40-year old garage door opener that stopped working, and the motor reads "250v"-- are 250 volt openers standard? does the 250v mean something completely different? or will I have to re-wire it to a standard 110v outlet type to put in a new opener? The original cover has most likely been lost to time; the brand was Overhead Door company.



I haven't purchased any new openers yet, making sure I know what I am getting into first :-)

The door is not especially large --9'x7' not sure of their weight; if it matters, the door will likely be replaced shortly as well.

Thanks for any and all help!
      

OK, here is my problem.  I live in a newly constructed house.  They are building a new house right next door.  I am seeing a power flux (dimming) in my lights whenever any of the following occurs:



- I turn on the A/C in my house

- I turn on the washing machine in my house

- the compressor next door kicks on (for their nail gun and/or other tools)



The compressor next door is hooked up to a temporary post on the street.  I have had my electrician come look along with the utility company.  The utility company says that the house is getting plenty of power.  So now, short of getting another electrician in here, trying to figure out what the problem could be (and if my electrician, who is the one who did the wiring during construction, doesn't know what he's doing).  Most of the lights in the house are 60W if that matters.



Any thoughts on what the problem might be?  I would think that given the proper wiring that I shouldn't see any kind of power flux.



Thanks for the help in advance.
      

When repairing a light switch I came across this wiring in a supposed 3-way setting in my kitchen.  Two Single Pole Double Throw switches controlling a single light fixture. 



Check out the quick and dirty wiring diagram showing the way these are connected.  I believe there should be a 14/3 between the two switches right?



All I see is 14/2 coming in and a 14/2 going across to the other switch, and then a 14/2 going to the light. And why are the neutrals cut and wire capped?  This doesn't make sense to me, but the light does work from both switches.



Any insight will be greatly appreciated.



Cheers!
      

Im replacing what I thought was 2 single pole light switches but there is 3 black wires and one red. I hooked them up to the new switches but both switches worked the one light can anyone tell me how to connect the wiring?
      

Hello everybody! First things first..I don't know much about wiring besides there being a positive, negative and a ground.



I am in the process of gathering information about installing two lights on the soffit of the corners of my house. There is an outside light by the sliding glass door that I was going to tap into for power, since the switch for it is in the kitchen.



My question is will this be possible if I was to run two twin head flood lights off of the same switch.   (  http://www.lampsplus.com/products/br...ht__h9572.html   )





What would be the easiest way to run the wiring for this? Through the soffit or just through the attic? The problem with the attic is there is vaulted ceilings in a few rooms of my house so it is pretty much impossible to walk in the attic to the far side of my house...actually I don't even think it is possible with the amount of insulation and how the ceilings are.



How would I go about mounting the light to the soffit? A junction box? Will I have to run conduit?



Here is a picture of what I am trying to do. Excuse my art skills in paint.





Thank you!
      

I am only using a simple "non-contact" voltage detector. I am getting a reading from the switch, along part of the line and then at the lights themselves, but the lights are not coming on. I have not gotten into the attic yet to check the line and junction box. What could cause this? An open connection or loose connection? Any help with troubleshooting would be great.



This is a new install of lights, they were not existing. Power is at the switch. Had single pole now I have a double switch. (the existing light that was on the single pole is still working fine). At one  point I connected just the new lights to the existing power, single pole switch, and still did not have lights.
      

Hi,



I need some help connecting a programmable electronic timer switch to an electronic door lock.  My goal is for the door to only unlock during a set period of time (when the timer is in the "on" position).



I have found two locks that I think may work, I just have no idea what wires to connect to what.



I attached three pictures.  Two of them are of the electronic timer (two different versions), and one is of the locking mechanism. 



Any help is greatly appreciated.
      

Hi

I  have a light circuit 15 amp 14gauge(7  cfl lights) ,and am going to link off of it 15ft to garage(is the only wiring close).will be putting 3 plugs,1st  -GFI; and 2 cfl lights on the line.I dont plan to use any appliances /compressors,etc. Will have garage door opener1/3 hp ,and may use vaccuum ,or 13 amp  saw once in a while,but not often

Do you see any problems with the set up ?



Will i be able to run the 13amp 60 hz (4500rpm no load ) saw,ok ,or small vac,even if lights are all on? I wont use the plugs together at same time even though there are only 3 on entire circuit.

Any info is appreciated.