Ground Wire Needed
Is it permissible to run a single bare wire from an ungrounded receptacle to the panel if the bare wire is not part of the Romex cable?
May a bare wire be ran to a j-box that has a ground while being outside the Romex jacket? I don't want to run a new cable, as I have plenty more #14/#12 bares than I do full cable. Thanks Similar Tutorials
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I have an outdoor light fixture that I am trying to replace. The house was built ten years ago.
When I removed the original lamp, I noticed one of the two leads was wired to the ground, and one was wired to the black wire, which is hot per my current sensor. There are three wires in the box - black, ground (bare copper), and white or neutral, all from a single romex cable. Unfortunately, I do not recall where the white was when I removed the original. I wired the new lamp per the instructions, something I have done many times before - black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground. Nothing. The lamp and bulbs are brand new, and I have tried four separate bulbs. I checked the black and neutral with my current sensor and with the switch on and the lamp installed this way, both show as hot. With the lamp not installed, the switch on, and the wires disconnected only the black shows as hot. The switch is single pole, and appears to be wired correctly with a black to each screw on one side and a copper ground on the other. Assuming the new fixture was bad, I reinstalled the old fixture correctly - black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground. Still nothing. No light, and I confirmed the bulb is good by putting it in another lamp. The only way to get it to light is to connect the neutral in the lamp to the bare copper ground. I capped the wires, turned the circuit back on, and identified all the outlets, switches and fixtures on the same circuit. I opened every one of them up (four lights and eight outlets) and found three (one switch and two fixtures in another room) where multiple commons connect. All were properly connected. My outlet tester shows all outlets as "correct". I found no instances of grounds connected to commons or vice-versa. Any ideas? Is it proper to wire this thing the way I found it? Thanks for any and all advice!
I have a grounding question. I am installing 400a service to my new home. We ran 350MCM wire underground thru 3" conduit from the 2ndary terminal (moped) to the house into a 320A Cooper B-Line meter. From the meter we ran 2 sets of 4/0-4/0-2/0 thru the wall to 2-200a breaker panels ("standard practice", according to my electrical supplier). The ground wire (#4Cu bare) from the grounding rods comes up from the ground and we're curious if there has to be a special splice connecting the ground wire to each breaker panel or can we run thru one breaker panel to then next, say by connecting the ground wire to a ground bus on one panel and running that thru to the next with #4Cu bare or #6Cu in conductor. Different electricians are suggesting different methods and the electrical inspector is unsure, but seems to be leaning towards the "special splice". Any feedback would be appreciated.
I want to run Romex from a j-box, that is in the ceiling of my basement, to the main panel. I know that I can run Romex from the box along the face of the joist (not the bottom), but what are my options once the Romex gets to the wall? The joist I am using, conveniently enough, meets the wall ideally for where the panel is. However, I've read that I need to run the Romex through EMT, or some form of conduit.
If you look at the picture I've attached, the panel is mounted on a piece of plywood that extends out underneath the joist. Can I just staple the Romex to the plywood and then run it into the panel without using any conduit? The cast iron pipe makes using any conduit quite a problem. The cable you see is MC Lite, but I want to replace it with Romex. There are going to be up to 9 more lines coming into the panel this very way.
Hi, I have a fluorescent light I'd like to remove and add a tracklight.
Luckily it's in the basement with an unfinished ceiling. here's the circuit map as is now: 1. breaker to fluorescent light.... connections inside 2. fluorescent light to switch at the top of the stairs 3. switch to the light in the stairwell. This terminates the circuit. The wiring is all 14/2 I'd like to replace the the fluorescent light with a track light, but I'm not sure how to continue the circuit to the switch in the stairwell. Is it safe to... 1. bring the cable from the breaker to the junction box. 2. connect the black wire with the black wire on the light AND the black wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette. 3. connect the white wire with the white wire on the light AND the white wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette 4. connecting a 6 inch bare 14 gauge wire to the box ground screw, then using a marette, connecting it with the ground wire from the cable entering the box as well as the one leaving and also the ground wire from the light. Will this work and is it safe?
QUESTION: can I run (2) 14-2 romex wires in (1) 3/4 BX Armored cable?
SETUP: I am finishing my basement and a few main floor circuits are intermingled with the basement lights and outlets. In finishing the basement, all basement electrical will be on its own circuit. Therefore, I need to rewire some main floor items. For instance, the main floor living room outlets go through the den area below in the basement. The 3/4 BX cable goes through the ceiling to the outlets. PLAN: I plan to cut the armored cable shortly after it comes out of the ceiling (main floor floor) and just connect the first floor outlets in a series using the proper bushing and BX cable ends. I will strap the BX cable ends down and the romex as soon as it comes out. The electrical inspector already gave me thumbs up on doing this for the electric oven and cooktop (bigger wires of course). I searched and couldn't find anything to this specific question. Any input? B
I am trying to install a SunSmart Digital Timer to my hall lightswitch (single pole). The timer has 5 wires: Black, White, Blue, Red, and Green. My switch box only has 3 wires: Black, White, and the bare ground wire. I connected the black to the black, white to white, and green to the bare ground. I have power to the timer but the light doesn't work. What should I do with the blue and red wires? Right now I have each capped off. Thanks.
I have an older house I which I need to replace/update some romex wiring. I was planning on turning of the power to the circuit, remove the devices from the wall box and then remove the box. I was hoping to use the old wire to pull the new wire. My problem is how to remove the old wire from the cable staple so it will be lose to use for pulling. Any suggestions?
I had a previous thread about bonding my inground pool. I had it done yesterday. I set up all the plumbing for my filter and I am going to wire it up tomorrow.
This pump was wired up once before and it is being moved. All the wiring was removed when the contractors were breaking up the concrete. It has a 25 amp breaker that I am going to replace with a GFI 25 amp breaker. I am going to wire it from the breaker box to a switch (1 foot from the box) to the receptacle about 45 feet away. I am going to use 12 gauge solid wire. I am not sure which would be better. Should I use 12/3 romex and use one as the ground or use 3 separate wires colored white, black and green. Also they had the green wire going to the ground bar in the breaker box. I guess I will attach the green(ground) wire to the ground bar and then run it to the green lugs on each receptacle. Also which types of boxes would be best to use metal or plastic. I am going to be using plastic pipe to run the wires.
I have 3 wire direct bury feeder cable from a 200 amp meter base/sub panel to a 125 amp sub panel on a post 150' away and the 125 amp sub panel will feed a 30 amp RV outlet box.
The 3 wire feed was already there and I know it is not to 2008 code, but my question is: do I need to bond the neutral bar to the ground bar and to a ground rod at the 125 amp subpanel?
Now I have a 20 amp breaker at the circuit box that has older two wire, ie black and white no ground. This cable looks to be in good shape. This services several overhead lights in bedrooms. I need to tie into this to create overhead lights in the bathroom and hallway. Can I replace the 20 amp breaker with a 15 amp breaker, and then use 14-2 cable to connect the bathroom and hall lighting? I do not know if the present older cable is 12 or 14. I assume it is 12 since it has been tied into this 20 amp breaker before I bought the house.
Thank you to all who help. |