Adding 2 Switches For Fan And Fan Light

I have an outdoor light fixture that I am trying to replace.  The house was built ten years ago.



When I removed the original lamp, I noticed one of the two leads was wired to the ground, and one was wired to the black wire, which is hot per my current sensor.  There are three wires in the box - black, ground (bare copper), and white or neutral, all from a single romex cable.  Unfortunately, I do not recall where the white was when I removed the original. 



I wired the new lamp per the instructions, something I have done many times before - black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Nothing.  The lamp and bulbs are brand new, and I have tried four separate bulbs.  I checked the black and neutral with my current sensor and with the switch on and the lamp installed this way, both show as hot. With the lamp not installed, the switch on, and the wires disconnected only the black shows as hot.  The switch is single pole, and appears to be wired correctly with a black to each screw on one side and a copper ground on the other.



Assuming the new fixture was bad, I reinstalled the old fixture correctly -  black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Still nothing. No light, and I confirmed the bulb is good by putting it in another lamp.   The only way to get it to light is to connect the neutral in the lamp to the bare copper ground.



I capped the wires, turned the circuit back on, and identified all the outlets, switches and fixtures on the same circuit.  I opened every one of them up (four lights and eight outlets) and found three (one switch and two fixtures in another room) where multiple commons connect.  All were properly connected.  My outlet tester shows all outlets as "correct".  I found no instances of grounds connected to commons or vice-versa.



Any ideas?  Is it proper to wire this thing the way I found it?



Thanks for any and all advice!
      

Hi, I have a fluorescent light I'd like to remove and add a tracklight.



Luckily it's in the basement with an unfinished ceiling.



here's the circuit map as is now:



1. breaker to fluorescent light.... connections inside

2. fluorescent light to switch at the top of the stairs

3. switch to the light in the stairwell. This terminates the circuit.



The wiring is all 14/2



I'd like to replace the the fluorescent light with a track light, but I'm not sure how to continue the circuit to the switch in the stairwell.



Is it safe to...



1. bring the cable from the breaker to the junction box.

2. connect the black wire with the black wire on the light AND the black wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette.

3. connect the white wire with the white wire on the light AND the white wire leaving the box to the switch in the stairwell using a marette

4. connecting a 6 inch bare 14 gauge wire to the box ground screw, then using a marette, connecting it with the ground wire from the cable entering the box as well as the one leaving and also the ground wire from the light.



Will this work and is it safe?
      

Have a tricky 3 way setup that I'd like to get input and ideally a wiring diagram for. Here's the setup:



Switch box at bottom of stairs

Switch box at top of stairs.

1 light at top of stairs, 14-2 wire coming into top of stairs box

1 light at bottom of stairs, 14-2 wire coming into bottom of stairs box

Feed from panel (14-2) coming into bottom of stairs box

14-3 wire going between bottom and top of stairs box.
      

I bought a replacement motor (Dayton 6k778k) for my attic fan.  I removed the old one and it has two wires coming out that connect to two wires that go down to the light switch that turns it on.  They were connected by those plastic twist things.  So, I open up my new motor assuming that there would be two wires coming out of it that I would just connect to the existing wires, however there are just a bunch of blade connectors and I have no idea what is supposed to connect to what and how.  I'm attaching three pictures. One is the old motor/wires, the second is the inside of the new motor, and the third is really the only thing that alludes to how this should he hitched up. 3 & 2 were pre-connected out of the box...which leaves 4 & 1.  Is one of the wires from the light switch supposed to connect to 4 and one to 1?  If so, which one goes to which? Do I need to put blade connectors on the end of the wires that go down to the light switch in order to connect them?  Any help is much appreciated.
      

I have 3 bedrooms on 15 amp circuits, 14 gauge wire. Original wiring is one bedroom is on one circuit and the other 2 bedrooms on another circuit. The wall switches in each switched the top half of an outlet in each room. I converted the wire at the wall switch to a 110V feed from the outlet and ran 14/3 from the switch to the ceiling for a ceiling fan. I replaced the outlets since the jumper was cut to isolate the 2 plug ins for switching. Is this whole scenario code compliant?
      

Hello Everyone-

   I was hoping that someone would be able to help me connect the dots here as far as how to do the wiring for my new bathroom.   To give you the basics...



There is just one two wire power cable going to the bathroom.

I have one single unit, that has two flip switches on it.

- Switch 1 is to control the light.

- Switch 2 is to control the fan.

Then there is also one outlet, which I want to be always on, and not hooked up to any switch.



Attached is a diagram of the individual components.



Can someone help me connect the dots on how to wire this all up?  Please let me know if you need any more details!
      

When repairing a light switch I came across this wiring in a supposed 3-way setting in my kitchen.  Two Single Pole Double Throw switches controlling a single light fixture. 



Check out the quick and dirty wiring diagram showing the way these are connected.  I believe there should be a 14/3 between the two switches right?



All I see is 14/2 coming in and a 14/2 going across to the other switch, and then a 14/2 going to the light. And why are the neutrals cut and wire capped?  This doesn't make sense to me, but the light does work from both switches.



Any insight will be greatly appreciated.



Cheers!
      

wanted to get feeback on my crude wiring diagram i put together for my small bathroom remodel. does it appear to be sound or am i way off base??



details:



* 20A dedicated circuit

* 12/2 wiring

* outlet's will be GFCI

* double gang box will contain:

* timer unit for exhaust fan

* double switch for heat lamp and lights

* Ground wiring is not shown but each fixture/outlet/switch will be connected to ground wire

* by calculations, the 34cu box is fine for the number of conductors/size of wiring. per box specs could handle 15/12g wires.

* the scanner cut off the bottom part of the picture, the 2 lights on the right are fed from the same switch, neutral's connected together.



F = Exhaust Fan

L = Light

HL = Heat Lamp

T = Timer switch

S = Switch

H = Hot

N = Neutral

Wire Nuts are in the box connecting the pigtails



Thank you for your input.
      

Hi All,



Need to replace an old faulty two switch fixture in the bathroom (light and exhaust fan). Right now, each switch on the single fixture separately operates either the light or the fan, regardless of the position of the other switch. Want to keep things that way. 



Here is a picture of the old fixture's wiring: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1179096/photo1.jpg



To replace this fixture, I bought to the Leviton 5634 (design diagram he  http://communities.leviton.com/servl...224%205634.pdf)



Unfortunately, what is confusing me is the the different designs between the two fixtures and the fact that the original unit seems to have some kind of patch or cross over type wire connecting the top and the bottom switches (see photo link above).



Any help/advice on how to wire this new fixture based on the picture of the current wiring configuration would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!
      

what the fudge sticks man?



I am not a DIY'er or a handy man but I gave it a shot..



I replaced an old a$$ receptacle with a brand new one and I wired it EXACTLY the same as the old one..



I know this because I did it WIRE BY WIRE!! i.e. I took 1 wire off the old receptacle and installed it on the new one.. wire by wire..



Power works and all that.. BUT NOW the ONLY light switch in the room does not control the bottom receptacle anymore?



what gives? i don't get it.. what changed?



Previously the light switch gave power to this outlets bottom plug, so I had the lamp plugged into it and turned it on/off with the light switch..



but that doesn't work?



I even triple checked my work and still not seeing whats up?





any ideas?





oNe.





p.s.  HOW do you release the wires on these new fangled outlets? It says push spring in slot to release but I am not seeing it?  any ideas?