Talk About Living Life On The Edge
Helicopter flies inches from LIVE electrical power lines so daredevil repairman can fix them
But because the power lines serve 400,000 people, the line cannot be closed down, meaning the work needs to be done while the line is live. Highlighting the dangers of the work, the commentator on the film says: 'These lines are still energised; we are flying right at them in a big hunk of metal filled with jet fuel.' Read mo http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz1spBXQymz Similar Tutorials
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i have 3 switch sets in my house that are giving me absolute fits.
#1 kitchen switch, controls the light over the outside door Code: 3 sets of lines coming in, i cannot get this 3 line to work without tripping the breaker every time i turn the switch off #2 bathroom switches Code: power feed line same issue as the first set, flip the switch and trip the breaker (different breaker from the kitchen switch) #3 living room switch and plug controlled via switch Code: power feed line flip switch, trip breaker the switches i have are "1 pole" am i using the wrong switches for this job?
I am new to the forum so kindly bear with me. I live in Mesa, AZ and have just had a PEX repipe done to bypass my copper hot water lines. (God don't ask! A real problem here with slab foundations. I already had my kitchen jack hammered once. It is NOT pretty!).
It seems really odd to me that just because it is a dedicated circuit that code would not require that circuit to be GFCI protected. I have a dedicated 20 amp duplex 12 AWG wire outlet under the sink and it is within a few inches of the water lines. The outlet serves a switch for the garbage disposal and serves my dishwasher which is always hot. Now that I have all my maple cabinets pulled out I thought I might change the outlet to a GFCI just to be safe. I have a ground wire, a red wire, a black wire and a white wire. As it is dedicated I think I should use the LINE sided instead of the LOAD side but I am not sure where the wires should go. Could someone give me info on this? It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Does the bonding lug on pump motor of jetted tub only have to be used if water lines are copper or metal? If CPVC water lines is there a need to bond and if so how?
I recently switched over from AT&T phone/cable/Internet service to Cablevision.
The problem with both services is the coax cable coming through a hole in the wall from outside and then a phone line from their modem stapled to the floor board and tied into the phone outlet inside. Then there's my phone lines, the coax cable to the TV... It's a disgusting mess. I'd like to install a combination phone line and cable outlet in the wall and get rid of as much loose wiring as possible. The phone line would come through the same area as the cable and I'd wire it on the other end to the main box outside the house. I have no experience with this so my question is can I take the phone line from the Cablevision modem and simply plug it into the outlet and get all the phones in the house to work or does it have to be hard wired or piggybacked inside the outlet?
Hello. I'm a new home owner and DIY-er. I have 3 fluorescent lights in my basement. I just replaced the fixtures' older ballasts with new T8 ballasts in the first two lights and they work fine. I am having trouble with the third light's wiring to the ceiling. I cut and removed the old ballast without paying much attention because I was able to wire the first two lights without any problem. I connected the new ballast to the bulb sockets in the fixture, just like I did with the first two lights. When I went to connect the ballast's black and white power lines to the ceiling lines, I was thrown off by a red wire, which I guess is connected to the light switch. In addition, this light is connected to the one of the other fluorescent lights and both are controlled by the switch. I have attached pictures of how I have it wired.
The way I have it wired now, the other light turns on and works fine when the switch is flipped. However, this light has the bulb flicker and then not turn on. If anyone can tell what I'm doing wrong from looking at the pictures, I'd appreciate any help! Thanks!
Hello again Gurus,
Will a double pole 15A 277v light switch work as a shut off for my air handler? I had to run all the electrical prior to them installing the central air and I wired a double pole switch from my 15A double pole breaker. I ran to the line/load ie black/white to the bottom posts on the switch. Thinking they can just run black/white from the air handler to the top. When the switch is UP> Live power to air handler. If it it's down (OFF), it means they can service the unit. Is my thinking correct on this? I couldn't find any other switches. Thank You ~S
We are in the process of redoing the area around our pool. As part of this we are adding a pool house and hot tub (separate from pool).
I have a couple Elecrtical Contractors coming out this weekend to price/put together a plan. Along with talking to several indivuals, I've been lurking around reading and trying to gather info but feel the need to have as much info available prior to getting these estimates and plans. Please excuse any incorrect verbage i might use and appreciate any corrections to my terminoligy So this is what i have The pool house is approx 100 ft from the house. It will have a few and outlets for blenders, minifridge, tv etc the pool equipement consites of a pump, heater and a sand filter. The pump and current heater run off standard 110 lines (however if i upgrade this I dont know if the new one will require a 220 line The pool light seems to run off a standard line as well The hottub requires a 220 40amp line There will be landscaping lighting as well as 2 more outlets for accesories The original setup prior to last year had what looks like 6 or 8 guage (3 wire) directly buried about 6-8 inches under ground. it was running what look to be two 20amp circuits from the main panel inside the house. This wire got split to two separate outlets near the pool. One went directly to the pool equipment and on directy to the pool light switch and some landscaping ighting. With all the enhancements we are making i'm wondering what the best approach will be. I assume a sub panel in the pool house that has one "main breaker" and has its own ground. Then one run to the pool equipment and one run to the hottub and a couple runs to the accesories i mentioned. I have seen several replies on here where individuals talk about "if they were doing the job this is how they would do it". Id be interested in some responses What type of wire would be best to get it to the pool house Does it run right from the main panel in the house? Does direct burial make sense or shold i put it in conduit? I'm already digging a trench three feet deep for water and RG6 (which will be pushed thru conduit) Any question i should make sure i ask the contractors? Thanks in advance for any input
I'm not sure this is the best place for this post but it certainly applies here. I'm looking to purchase a wire tracer. I'd like it to have these options, which I'm pretty sure they all do from what I've seen so far. Obviously, energized the wire and then trace its whereabouts; some type of decent sized pencil (item used to trace the wires itself) so you can get into smaller places; be able to do A/C, D/C and maybe phones lines too? I've seen the small cheesey one at the big box stores (I think it was made by GB) and wasn't really impressed. I'm leaning towards the Textron unit for phone lines only because the use and somewhat reasonable price. I know the high speed ones are what I'm looking for but I'm not willing to spend $500 on it- I don't think I'd use it enough to justify it. Are there any others ideas/items that I've missed? Any information will be appreciated. Thanks.
Going through a crazy heat wave here in SoCal, and one of my tenants called to tell me that the electricity isn't on in some of his rooms. He turned on his portable AC unit that he has been using all summer and something may have happened.
Downstairs:The dining room light switch, downstairs light switch do not work. All outlets around them do work though, which is odd cause I would have thought they'd be on the same circuit. Upstairs: The side bathroom light switch does not work, but outlets all work. In the master bedroom (where the AC unit is located), the master bathroom light switch does not work, nor does the master bedroom light switch. All of the outlets do not work either. I used my outlet tester and it gave me the hot/ground reversed lights. I think this means that the white/black wires are reversed on the outlets (has not changed recently). I went over, checked all of the breakers. Switched them to off, then back on, did not fix the issue. All breakers stay in the on position without tripping, so no shorts? Checked all GFCI's, hit test, then reset, did not solve the problem. We unplugged everything from all outlets, and retried, but it didn't work. I checked continuity between the main power lines, and the output of the circuit breakers, and all were fine. I did NOT check the voltages though, and will do so in the morning when I stop by again. Is there anything else I should check?
We're running a new electrical wire & wondering if it would be ok to place it where indicated in the pic... or should we cut out more wall to the left & get it away from the water lines?
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