Recommendations For Dimmable Under Cabinet Lights

Summary of what I'm doing:



Adding 2 outlets for above and below cabinet lighting.  Lights are line-level and plug into an outlet.  I want to install a single double-rocker switch to control each of these outlets.



All of the double rockers I can find are 15-amp.  The circuit I am planning to use for power is a 20a.  Am I sunk?  Will I need to install 2 single 20a switches?  I would only put 15a outlets in, obviously, but this doesn't seem like the right way.  Are there 20a switches that I just can't seem to find?



This is what I'm looking for:





One other thing, the circuit I am using for this is GFCI protected.  Should the lighting part of this circuit go to the load (to be GFCI protected) or is it advisable to put the lights before the GFCI?
      

I've installed two dimmer switches in the bar area of my basement. It's the dial type, where you can push the dial in to turn the light on or off, or turn the dial to dim the light. One dimmer operates the recessed lights in the ceiling, and the other dimmer switch works a pendant light that I have over my bar. The dimmer for the recessed lights works totally fine. They turn on, off and dim. The pendant lights, on the other hand, only turn on and off. They for some reason will not dim. I checked the voltage on the pendants to see if maybe it was an issue of the switch being a high voltage dimmer operating low voltage pendants, and the pendants are 120V with 75 max wattage. I'm at a stand still. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Do any of you have suggestions? I took a couple pictures, not sure what good they'll do. The best I can do for a camera is my iPhone, so they're not the best quality.








      

I have a 1960s house with EMT throughout. 



I recently replaced 2 florecent fixtures in my basement with 4 LED lights in their own J-Boxes in the drop ceiling. I did the following:



1. Rerouted the the conduit from the light switch to the main j-box for the lights. (previously it was going directly into the fixture) 

2. Ran 4 foot whips to each jbox holding the LED (metalic 14# wires)

3. Cut the old spliced wire (that was just twisted and taped) and used a wire nut

4. Replaced the switch with a dimmer



The lights work great.  Noticebale improvement and the dimmer is excellent.



The issue is that the circuit for the kitchen is now tripping.  I told my wife its just a coincidence, but she is sure I caused it.  Its only happened 2x (1 day apart.  Nothing unusual running on the circuit, only the fridge and the gas stove which as not in use)



Can my "new" work possibly impact another circuit?   What should I check?  Any way to avoid re-doing my work?



Things I noticed / may or may not be relevant:

1. Some of the EMT is directly in contact with a copper water pipe

2. The switch / dimmer isn't grounded

3. The wires in the jbox were nasty and old.  There was corrosion on the jackets and the jbox.  Looks like some water leaked down fromt the laundy above at some point in the last 40 years.

4. At some point (months ago) when I was in the basement I touched some of the EMT and something that was plugged in I swear I feld a shock. (just listing everything I can think of).  I didn't think much of it at the time, but now my whole electrical system is suspect.

5.  The tripped circuit (fridge, MW, stove) didn't appear to be tripped.  The fridge wasn't on.  When I turned off and back on the circuit the aplliances came back to life.  Appliances less than 1 year old. 

6. The clock on the range was reset at one point but I didn't think I turned on or off the circuit.  The lights for the basement were switced off but still worked with the fridge circuit tripped.

7.  We had a huge electrical storm right before I did the work

8.  We have a "stablock" panel that the home inspector got all bent out of shape about.  Other than truning on and off breakers I have never touched it.

9.  Kitchen breaker and basement light breaker are adjacent in the box

10.  I believe kitchen and basement share the same EMT in places.

11.  I think I now have too many connectors in my j-box.  Will likely add an extension.

12.  I didn't use the red "bushing" on all my whips as I ran out of them, but I was careful with the metal sheath and really don't think any wires were cut. (besides if there was a short wouldn't my LED lights fail and that circut break?)



HELP.  I am happy to call a contractor to come in, but I don't have an electrician I trust yet and I'm scared bringing someone in before I isolate the problem a little.
      

Hi everyone. I have puck lights that were installed under my kitchen cabinets before I moved in, and now it's time to relace a few of the bulbs. I have tried everything and I can't seem to get the darn lid off and can't. I've twisted in both directions, tried to gently pull it straight down, gently pushed up to see if something would release, etc. etc. I'm afraid of doing much else for fear of breaking the plastic or ripping the thing off the cabinet. Does anyone have any idea how these lids should come off? I'm having the problem with two different light fixtures, so it's not a random defective one. A picture is attached (at least I tried to attach it). Help is most gratefully appreciated!!



Thanks!

Renee



P.S. I know it is important to not touch the bulb directly to skin.
      

I am only using a simple "non-contact" voltage detector. I am getting a reading from the switch, along part of the line and then at the lights themselves, but the lights are not coming on. I have not gotten into the attic yet to check the line and junction box. What could cause this? An open connection or loose connection? Any help with troubleshooting would be great.



This is a new install of lights, they were not existing. Power is at the switch. Had single pole now I have a double switch. (the existing light that was on the single pole is still working fine). At one  point I connected just the new lights to the existing power, single pole switch, and still did not have lights.
      

i have 3 switch sets in my house that are giving me absolute fits.



#1  kitchen switch, controls the light over the outside door




    Code:

   

3 sets of lines coming in,



line from the breaker panel (power)



line to the ceiling lights 



line to the outside porch light.

i cannot get this 3 line to work without tripping the breaker every time i turn the switch off



#2 bathroom switches




    Code:

   

power feed line



line to the light over the medicine cabinet



line to the second switch to control the exhaust fan.

same issue as the first set, flip the switch and trip the breaker (different breaker from the kitchen switch)



#3 living room switch and plug controlled via switch




    Code:

   

 power feed line



outside porch light line



line to wall switch to control the lower wall outlet

flip switch, trip breaker



the switches i have are "1 pole" am i using the wrong switches for this job?
      

in a box I have three wires, one hot wire coming from panel, one going out to under cabinet light, one going out to switch that with activate under cab lights, inside the box will be a GFI, how do I wire this?



thanks
      

I am going to install some can lights throughout the house soon.  I have one light in the center of each room that is already wired up.  I will be patching the existing light boxes up to run the new can lights, utilizing the wiring that is already present. 



When hooking the extra lights up should I use 12/2 or 14/2 wire for running them in parallel?  There will probably be no more than 3 or 4 can lights per room ran with CFLs.  The current lights that are in each room take up to 3 bulbs per fixture.
      

We are looking at installing under cabinet lighting, and I cannot decide between 12 seperate LED pucks (2W each, 3000K) or should I get a reel of LED lights (16 feet, 2.5W/ft, 3000K)?

Are the pucks more reliable?
      

I replaced a ceiling light with a fan/light with a remote. everthing works. their is one light switch and one dimmer switch. The dimmer switch has a red wire and a black wire connected to the black wires coming out of the dimmer switch, plus a green wire hooked to the metal portion of the dimmer. My question is: Do I have to remove the dimmer switch, if so, can I disconnect the red and black and hook them together? If I have to replace the dimmer with a regular switch, what kind of switch do I get?

Thank you