2way Switch Earthing

Is there anything that actually stops me from wiring a 2.8kW oven in 2.5mm twin and earth? Done the cable sizing calculation and voltage drop and it's all legit, am I missing something though? I know a few people have said it better to wire it in 4mm/6mm incase a differemt cooker etc is ever put in, but is it dangerous for it to be wired in 2.5 for example could the cable overheat?
      

Garage running Underground feeder 4/4/4 AL from main panel off dual 80 amp breaker.

Yesterday I found half the garage panel was inoperative.

Tested lugs, one of the feeders is 120V, the other is at 80-90V.

Swapped the feeders at the 80 amp main to ensure it wasn't the breaker. Same results.

Tested at the 80 amp breaker at main panel, both legs 120V.

When I remove the 80-90V feeder off the 80 amp main panel breaker and test it at the garage it drops from 80-90 to 0.



No breakers trip. Is this one feeder line broken underground or split open and grounded to earth?
      

Hello,



I am redoing my electrical system from the weatherhead to the breaker box so I'm sure I'll be asking quite a few questions in the relatively near future.



My city uses the 2008 NEC with virtually no amendments (none pertaining to what I'm doing).



I've got a copy of  the NEC... wow, what a document, HA!



I've got the permit already and have been in contact with the inspector already.



He says my best bet is to use 2 grounding rods (so he doesn't have to measure resistance in the soil etc if I only have one).



What size (diameter) solid copper rods are used?



What length?



When they are placed 6' apart, is that: no more than 6, no less than 6, or exactly 6'?



Thank you all for your help!
      

I am installing 200 amp residential service.  From the meter socket I am doing a very short run into the crawlspace to a 200 amp fused disconnect switch. From the disconnect switch I am doing a 60 foot run to the 200 amp panel. The run between the disconnect and the panel is all within the crawlspace interior ( heated ). Do I have to use ACWU cable or is there a cheaper alternative? I also need to isolate the bonding so is 4 wire configuration very common ?   This is a Canadian question specific to British Columbia codes.
      

One link I found that has possible changes

http://www.ecmag.com/?fa=article&articleID=10115



Another

http://www.iaei.org/magazine/?p=4454




    Quote:

   

   
      

         
            New: 404.2(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads

A new subdivision will require a grounded conductor to be provided to switch locations that control lighting, unless the wiring is installed in a raceway or the physical construction of the building allows for relative ease of future addition of other conductors
         
      

   
   


Seems a Neutral (grounded conductor) may need to be included on switched loops

Still looking for more info



DRAFT:



http://www.4shared.com/file/23118541...011_Draft.html
      

Hey guys, I am looking to find out what kind of cable this is.







Some details



It looks to me like some kind of. 



3 Conductor surface shielded Cable



The outside is a black shield



It has 3 wires: red, gold green that were twisted together and have some kind of coating on them, not rubber but a color coating on them.



Its a verrrrrrry thin cable and the wires are individually twisted with about 8 strands and then the 3 twisted and then the outside.



Anyone have by any chance of this laying around or know what this kind is?
      

Greetings all.



This is my first post here, I hope it goes well.



My name is Joe and I have searched Google. and this forum for my answer but have not been able to find a definitive answer to my question.  I have seen many replies talking about getting a tone generator or a line tracer but my experience is that tone generators are for Data and phone cables rather than electrical cables and the line tracers I've found online all seem to be about tracing the line back to the breaker panel so without knowing more I'm hesitant to purchase a line tracer in case it cannot do what I want.

My dilemma is very likely very simple to anyone with electrical experience so I hope it's not too trivial for this crowd.

I have recently purchased a house that is over 120 years old and have a motion sensor light on the porch that is supposedly connected to a switch inside but does not turn on.  I've opened the wall plate and used a voltage indicating pen to see where the electricity is.  In this case there are two light switches, one that has lines that have been spliced and another that supposedly leads to the porch light according to a long time tenant in that unit.  It all looks like a bit of a mess and the connections don't make sense.  In this scenario the black cables have the electricity and the white cables complete the circuit.  The switch to the porch light has a black cable coming from the top of the box going to the switch and a white cable connected to the other screw that comes from splitting the white cable from the other switch.  What I would like to do is know which cables in that wall box correspond to the cables to the porch light.  Can anyone give me an idea what I should do?

Do I need something like the Amprobe advanced wire tracer (http://www.professionalequipment.com...0/wire-tracer/) and can it do what I need, or is there something simpler I can do?

All help is appreciated.

Thanks



Joe
      

I'm in the final stages of a rough in.... three questions:



1) Do the feeds to the panel need to be in the panel but not connected or is it ok to just have them pulled over by the panel



2) I've got can lights in a drop ceiling - do I just staple the cable to the joist in the area the light will go and coil up the excess?



3) I have an outlet and a switch that I can't disconnect right now(sump pump and a stairway light) but these will be going on new circuits I pulled. Obviously I can't get the box ready, can I just pull the cable and have it there by the existing box? I thought about putting in a new box, but there really is no space for the outlet and we like where the switch is.



I'd call the inspector and ask his preference but it is a voicemail box that has been full for a week.



Thanks.
      

Hi,



I would like to wire a switch to be able to cut the power to the ceiling mounted outlets that feed our garage door openers. Running new wiring to them will be a bit cumbersome, so I am hoping to avoid that. The ceiling outlets are powered by light fixtures in the garage (one near by each outlet). There is a 3 wire romex cable running from the light switch to the first light and another one between the lights, and then regular 2 wire romex cables from the light fixtures to the outlets. The red wires in the 3 wire cables to the lights are switchable, the black wires are always hot.



I mainly want to be able to cut the power to the doors when we are away on vacation, and the reason for that is that one night both doors somehow opened up - I have no idea why. I'd hate for that to happen when we're away. Unplugging and plugging in the openers is a bit of a hassle due to the high ceiling.



I thought about wiring in a switched outlet so that I could just reach up with a long handle of some sort and switch off the power to the outlet. It would not be ideal, but definitely easier than getting the ladder out and unplugging the door openers.  However, there is possibly another option that I'd like some input on if anyone cares to comment. I believe I could wire in a switch on the wall next to the light switch that would allow me to cut the power to the black wires in the 3 wire cables. This would cut the power to the ceiling outlets and anything downstream from there (possibly an outside light, I would need to check on that).



My question is, are there any potential issues with this sort of wiring? Is there perhaps any code violation if both hot wires in a 3 wire cable can be switched off separately?



Thoughts?