Override Garage Door Electronic Eye
Ones anyone have any ideas on how to override the electronic eye system on a craftsman garage door opener. I want to use one for a trolley to access the back of my loft. Have no way of setting it up with the eyes and I also don't have an extra set of eyes
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Hi,
I need some help connecting a programmable electronic timer switch to an electronic door lock. My goal is for the door to only unlock during a set period of time (when the timer is in the "on" position). I have found two locks that I think may work, I just have no idea what wires to connect to what. I attached three pictures. Two of them are of the electronic timer (two different versions), and one is of the locking mechanism. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hello everyone,
I am trying to replace a 40-year old garage door opener that stopped working, and the motor reads "250v"-- are 250 volt openers standard? does the 250v mean something completely different? or will I have to re-wire it to a standard 110v outlet type to put in a new opener? The original cover has most likely been lost to time; the brand was Overhead Door company. I haven't purchased any new openers yet, making sure I know what I am getting into first :-) The door is not especially large --9'x7' not sure of their weight; if it matters, the door will likely be replaced shortly as well. Thanks for any and all help!
Hi everyone, this is my first post. Hope it works out!
I have a new detached two car garage with two 115v 15A circuits in it. I want to put in a 12000 BTU window air conditioner. One circuit runs 10 fluoresent bulbs in the garage and a few in the house but also runs a few outlets in the house that see occasional use by a 12A vacuum cleaner. The other is solely used for the door opener and outlets in the garage where I often use a 12 amp skill saw. Both circuits are aqccessible, which one should I choose? Puttster
I have two dimmable electronic transformers with 12 volt ac output. The track light system has two circuits with one common ground for the circuits. Can I wire one of the output wires from each transformer into the common ground of the track light system? I will be dimming each transformer with an electronic dimmer on the primary side.
HI all,
I have a rain barrel system with a pump (110v) and I ran a 3way switch to my patio and one by the pump (in a shed). My wife now wants the pump on a timer (to water the garden). So...I could just add a timer to the switched outlet, but I want to be able to override the timer with the switch (at the patio or shed), without interfering with the pump timer operation. I've drawn up a diagram showing my proposed setup. Question: can I rig up the pump with two power cords and plug one into the timed outlet and one into the switched outlet and not burn down my shed in the process?
Scratching my head on this. New pole building. For now, I want to use one circuit for the lights. What I'm trying to do, is, at one door, I have a 3 way, switching two flourescent lights. Also in that 4-gang light switch, is run a light over the door on the outside, and a light over the overhead service door, and another light over the door, on the inside. So 1 3way, and three single pole switches. At the back door, the other 3 way for the same two lights, and a light over the door on the outside, and another light over the door on the inside. I have the power from the m/p, going into the light box nearest the M/P. Long story short, instead of how I have it, which operates all the lights, as long as one of the three ways are on. If someone could help me with how it should be. I am using 12-3 from the switches. Using 12-2 from the first light box, to the second. I have a another 12-2 running into each switch box, to supply power for the single pole switches.
Thanks for any/all input.
I built a free standing garage with main power tapped from the home breaker box. The contractor pulled 4 wires via a conduit to the freestanding garage panel which supplies lights, a garage door, and two 20 amp outlets.
Everything worked well initially, but about 1 week ago one section of the lights in the building went out. The contractor came out and found that one of the two hot wires in the garage panel was only seeing 100 volts and that went down if anything else was turned on. He swapped one of the ground wires for the bad hot wire and everything now works. What would cause a situation like this where the hot wire apparently had a voltage loss? Is it safe to continue with the fix where the faulty wire is now the ground? Thanks in advance!
Hi
I have a light circuit 15 amp 14gauge(7 cfl lights) ,and am going to link off of it 15ft to garage(is the only wiring close).will be putting 3 plugs,1st -GFI; and 2 cfl lights on the line.I dont plan to use any appliances /compressors,etc. Will have garage door opener1/3 hp ,and may use vaccuum ,or 13 amp saw once in a while,but not often Do you see any problems with the set up ? Will i be able to run the 13amp 60 hz (4500rpm no load ) saw,ok ,or small vac,even if lights are all on? I wont use the plugs together at same time even though there are only 3 on entire circuit. Any info is appreciated.
I bought a Panasonic FV-13VKS3 vent fan. The fan is designed to run continuously at a preset lower level (e.g. 50CFM) that can then be elevated to its max level (130CFM) when switched on. When switched off, the fan has its own built-in, adjustable countdown timer that returns the fan back to the low setting.
What I would like to do is use a Leviton LTB30-1LZ to control the high fan level. For example, I would set the fan's built-in timer to 5 minutes. And when I switch on the LTB30 for 30 minutes, the fan will kick in to high mode for 30 minutes, then the LTB30 turns off and triggers the fan's built-in timer for an additional 5 minutes before returning to the low setting. My question is, is this possible and how would I wire this? Looking at the fan's wiring diagram, I think the two red wires from the fan would be used to switch the fan's built-in timer. But I'm unsure where to connect these two red wires onto the Leviton timer.
I searched for this answer and could not find it. I am not sure which brand of furnace I have. When I opened the cover it says the model number is G1N80AT100D14B-2. My furnace works great on heat. Now that it is hot outside I would like to run the fan setting to get some extra circulation in the house. I don't have A/C. How do I hookup my furnace to only operate the fan? I tried using the "on" setting on the thermostat on both the heat and cool setting but that didn't work. I am a novice so please walk me step by step. I am hoping I just switch one of the jumpers on the circuit board. By the way, I don't believe that my thermostat is even hooked up to the cool setting at all. Thanks in advance!
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