Nm In Residential Detached Garage

Does standard drywall have 15 min. finish rating or is this identified as the "fire resistant" drywall.  And does a detached residential garage even require a 15 min. finish when nm is used?  I have read and read and it seems as though exposed nm is acceptable in an attached garage but not in a detached garage???  I still can't seem to wrap my head around the logic of some of the NEC codes....
      

I'm preparing for finally calling in for my rough in inspection and was hoping I could get a checklist or at least some suggestions as to what work should and should not be completed for a rough-in inspection.  Does any wiring need to be spliced, wire-nutted, terminated within the panel or lighting or receptacle boxes?  My project was running power from main panel to lug and from lug to sub in detached res. garage and installing 4-5 lighting and recep circuits.
      

Hello All



So I have a beginners question.  I am remodeling my basement.  The existing electrical is fine, but all of the boxes were hung from the old wood paneling (not mounted to the studs) using some sort of hooks/pins.  I had a friends dad (who is a master plumber) come in, and he said those pins are fine for occasional use, but should not have been used everywhere.



Should I mount the boxes to the studs?  If so, should  the boxes be flush with the studs, or should they be 5/8 extended out, so they will be flush with the Sheetrock?



My gut says 5/8 out, but watching youtube clips I only hear flush with the studs.  Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks.



-K
      

My existing service entrance consists of an external Meter can mounted on the outside of the garage wall directly behind a SD Main Breaker Panel (MBP) with a 150 amp main breaker.  In order to support upgrades, I am installing a second MBP (200 amp) inside the garage in the wall cavity right next to the existing panel.



Local code requires that the upgraded Meter can be purchased from the City Utility.  I have already confirmed with the local inspector that either 4/0 Al or 2/0 Cu SE cable are acceptable for both the existing and new MBP.



My question is what is the code requirement for getting the 3 SE cables run from the dual lugs to the new panel?  Can those conductors run into the same wall cavity where the existing panel is installed?  If so, I'm certain they can't go through the same conduit nipple that connects the back of the meter can to the existing MBP.  Can they route in behind/above/below the existing panel and through a hole in the wall stud to gain access to the adjacent stud bay to get to the new panel?  If not, do they need to be routed out of the meter can on the external wall in conduit over to the next stud bay and then enter the wall there to gain access to the new panel?  If external conduit is required I would expect it must be metallic as opposed to PVC.



Best Regards,



Ted
      

Hi everyone, this is my first post.  Hope it works out!



I have a new detached two car garage with two 115v 15A circuits in it.  I want to put in a 12000 BTU window air conditioner.  One circuit runs 10 fluoresent bulbs in the garage and a few in the house but also runs a few outlets in the house that see occasional use by a 12A vacuum cleaner.  The other is solely used for the door opener and outlets in the garage where I often use a 12 amp skill saw. 



Both circuits are aqccessible, which one should I choose?



Puttster
      

i want to add a sub panel to my detached garage 30 ft from my house.it will need to run a 220 compressor 2 to 3 outlets and a 5 person hot tub behind the garage.what size sub panel would i need to do the job?
      

Getting ready to replace my well jet pump with a 240 volt model (currently I use a 120 volt pump. Currently I have a 20 amp, 120 volt circuit that runs from the house to the pump house about 60 feet. I use that circuit for the pump, a light and a receptacle. I want to replace that circuit with a 20 amp MWBC using 12/3 UF cable from the sub panel in my detached barn to the pump house (about 20 feet).



Question: Can I use 1/2" seal-tite to run from the sub panel to a a junction box prior to going underground with the 12/3 UF? The seal-tight run would be about 30". (I have a bunch of seal-tite, connectors and #12 THWN that I bought cheap at a storage unit auction.) The seal-tite would be run in the stud bay and along side the ceiling joist to get from one side of the barn to the other.



Question: Can I use an unfused air conditioning disconnect at the pump house to disconnect the 2 ungrounded conductors of the MWBC.



I can find nothing in the NEC that would bar either of these items, but I am a code novice.
      

What is the typical sized hole for running NM cable through a stud or top plate?  And how many NM cables can go through that single hole?  Also, how many cables are allowed per panel connector?  I will be running all 12/2 NM.
      

I will be pulling from the breaker panel new 12/2 romex for a kitchen microwave and a 20 amp circuit, 12/2 for the garage. I might also pull some extra wire for a future add on room and to divide up existing circuits to avoid overloads in the future. I am snaking these cables through existing sheetrock ceilings and walls. Are there any code requirements about snaking through existing walls and ceilings other than drilling holes 2" from the face of a stud or beam?
      

I want to put switch in house to control lights in garage.  How do i run romex from garage through drywall into house?  Do i need to use conduit to secure wire.  Thanks