Dusk To Dawn Sensor

I have a dusk to dawn light that is not working. The bulb appeared to be blown. I installed a new bulb and it still does not come on.  What would you recomend to check? What is the best way to check the sensor?
      

My lamppost bulb turns on a few hours after sunset. I use a cfl bulb which has worked fine. I attached a picture of the sensor that I bought which is just like the sensor I have now. Are these hard to install or should I hire a pro?
      

I bought a landscape light at a thrift store to play around with.  It is definitely a well light.  It has a black shell and a round, rather flat bulb.  The connections are exposed on the back of the bulb and the wires screw directly into the bulb.  Looks similar to this:







The only difference is the bulb frame has a little clip that hooks onto the black part to hold it in.  I am interested in what kind of light this is?  I'm assuming it's low voltage?  How can I tell?  Also, what are well lights good to light?  I believe the bulb may say GE.
      

Looking for a way to automatically keep my two outdoor bulbs shut off during the day.  The timers seem to be on the expensive side and from what I read the screw-in sensors don't work very well.  Would appreciate some recommendations.

puttster
      

I have an outdoor light fixture that I am trying to replace.  The house was built ten years ago.



When I removed the original lamp, I noticed one of the two leads was wired to the ground, and one was wired to the black wire, which is hot per my current sensor.  There are three wires in the box - black, ground (bare copper), and white or neutral, all from a single romex cable.  Unfortunately, I do not recall where the white was when I removed the original. 



I wired the new lamp per the instructions, something I have done many times before - black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Nothing.  The lamp and bulbs are brand new, and I have tried four separate bulbs.  I checked the black and neutral with my current sensor and with the switch on and the lamp installed this way, both show as hot. With the lamp not installed, the switch on, and the wires disconnected only the black shows as hot.  The switch is single pole, and appears to be wired correctly with a black to each screw on one side and a copper ground on the other.



Assuming the new fixture was bad, I reinstalled the old fixture correctly -  black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Still nothing. No light, and I confirmed the bulb is good by putting it in another lamp.   The only way to get it to light is to connect the neutral in the lamp to the bare copper ground.



I capped the wires, turned the circuit back on, and identified all the outlets, switches and fixtures on the same circuit.  I opened every one of them up (four lights and eight outlets) and found three (one switch and two fixtures in another room) where multiple commons connect.  All were properly connected.  My outlet tester shows all outlets as "correct".  I found no instances of grounds connected to commons or vice-versa.



Any ideas?  Is it proper to wire this thing the way I found it?



Thanks for any and all advice!
      

I'm installing a new outdoor light on the house (replacing a single flood with a motion sensor security light). I didn't realize until I took the old one off the house today that it's got a small rectangular junction box. The brackets that came with the new (round-based) light won't even fit in there. Is there any kind of adapter you can get, or is it a DIY kind of thing?



My biggest concern is keeping insects and water out of there. It's under the overhang, but I'd rather keep it sealed well if I can.
      

Greetings all.



This is my first post here, I hope it goes well.



My name is Joe and I have searched Google. and this forum for my answer but have not been able to find a definitive answer to my question.  I have seen many replies talking about getting a tone generator or a line tracer but my experience is that tone generators are for Data and phone cables rather than electrical cables and the line tracers I've found online all seem to be about tracing the line back to the breaker panel so without knowing more I'm hesitant to purchase a line tracer in case it cannot do what I want.

My dilemma is very likely very simple to anyone with electrical experience so I hope it's not too trivial for this crowd.

I have recently purchased a house that is over 120 years old and have a motion sensor light on the porch that is supposedly connected to a switch inside but does not turn on.  I've opened the wall plate and used a voltage indicating pen to see where the electricity is.  In this case there are two light switches, one that has lines that have been spliced and another that supposedly leads to the porch light according to a long time tenant in that unit.  It all looks like a bit of a mess and the connections don't make sense.  In this scenario the black cables have the electricity and the white cables complete the circuit.  The switch to the porch light has a black cable coming from the top of the box going to the switch and a white cable connected to the other screw that comes from splitting the white cable from the other switch.  What I would like to do is know which cables in that wall box correspond to the cables to the porch light.  Can anyone give me an idea what I should do?

Do I need something like the Amprobe advanced wire tracer (http://www.professionalequipment.com...0/wire-tracer/) and can it do what I need, or is there something simpler I can do?

All help is appreciated.

Thanks



Joe
      

Hello,



I currently have one light switch which operates an outlet in one of my bedrooms.  I want to add a ceiling fan that has independent switches for the fan and light - but I want to make sure i'm wiring it correctly and safely.



Current (First Pic)- Live hot feeds into bottom of switch (bottom insert hole) and the all of the bedroom outlets (pig-tailed) tie into the bottom of the switch on the screw.  Coming out of the top of the switch is one hot which feeds to a single outlet.  All of the neutral and grounds are tied together.



New Plan (Second Pic)- Remove the constant outlet hot from the screw, add a new hot wire to the top of new switch and run a wire up to the attic for fan.  Add another hot wire from the bottom of that switch to the third switch and run another wire up to the attic for the lights.  Re-connect the constant outlet wire to the screw of the last switch.  Connect all the neutrals and all of the grounds together.



At the top of the ceiling, connect the neutrals and grounds together with the fans neutral and ground.  Connect the fan hot to the fan switch hot, and the fan light hot to the light switch hot.
      

I have a kind of strange question:  How many watts is a 2x40W incandescent bulb?  Is it 40W?  Why is there a '2x' before 40W?



One of the bulbs in my light fixture above the bathroom sink burned out.  The light fixture uses three bulbs (decorative globe type).  I uncrewed the bad bulb, and it says '2x40W' on the base of the bulb (the metal part).  I went to Home Depot and they have the bulb type in 40W and 60W but both say 1x (1x40W and 1x60W).  The electrician at Home Depot wasn't sure what 2x could refer to on my bulb and suggested it might be that my bad bulb was in a 2-pack package.  Is that it?
      

Just bought some LED lights for the porch, but I realized the new digital timer in wall switch I purchased to replace the on/off says it's for incandescent only.  Been looking online, but couldn't find anything specific for LEDs, what should I use?



Thanks,