Electricity To Portable Building
We want to run 110V service to a portable building 95' from the breaker box at the house. It will run a 110V 8000 BTU AC (dedicated breaker), two single bulb light fixtures and 2 additional wall outlets. Our breaker box at the house is full, but I am being told I can remove a single breaker in the box and replace it with one that contains two breakers. What is the name of this type of breaker and where can I get one? What size breaker should be used for this amount of power requirement? What size breakers should I have in the load center on the portable building?
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What size wire is needed to run 100' from the main breaker panel at the house to a portable building? The load center at the protable building will run an 8000 BTU 110V window AC, two single bulb light fixtures and one 110V wall eletrical outlet.
Thanks for your help.
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should be simple right? a breaker somewhere? interior outlets are all fine, no other apparent electrical issues. i've been to the breaker box, and there are no breakers specifically marked for the exterior outlets, and all of the breakers appear to be set/active. anyone have any suggestions as to where to look for the problem? adv-thanks-ance for your thoughts!
Hello.
I recently purchased a home that has a a new grounded breaker panel but none of the outlets themselves are grounded save the hvac system in the basement. I had an electrician come and he said the fastest way to get it done is to switch the appropriate breakers to GFCI breakers in my service box and then I can change the outlets and then just put the stickers that say ungrounded etc on the new 3 prong receptacles. he called the inspector to double check and the inspector told him that he can't do it this way but he needs to find the first outlet in the loop from each breaker line and change that receptacle to a gfci and then we can change each receptacle to 3 prong in that loop. Wouldn't just changing the breaker do the same thing? also if I did just install a Gfci receptacle on the first outlet in the loop, if it breaks wouldn't the rest of the outlets behind that gfci not function until I replaced the Gfci outlet where as a breaker would just pop and I can simply go turn it back on? Just wanted to get some opinion from the experts as I'm willing to spend more on doing gfci breakers and am confused as to why the inspector suggested the way he did Thanks for any help!
I have a tankless hot water heater with the following requirements:
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I bought a newer model from the same manufacture that has a much better design and a better main breaker. But unlike the one I already have when you invert it the breaker slots don't line up and cover does not fit properly. I was thinking about just cutting out the center where the breaker slots are. I measured and if I cut it just right all I have to do is turn it over and it will line up just have to bolt or weld it in place. Would this be legal I also thought about putting the panel the way it came and feeding the bus bar hot and keeping the panel under the 6 throw rule. Or would that not work because I am using feed through. There will be 4 double pole breakers and the one main that feeds a sub panel. I really hate the cheap design of this panel. I plan to replace it with this.
I put in a 240v circuit with two AWG 4 and AWG 6 for ground THHN, less than 20' from the panel. this is for a future welder, compressor or whatever. What size breaker should I put in?
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