Electronic Timer Switch Hookup

HI all,



I have a rain barrel system with a pump (110v) and I ran a 3way switch to my patio and one by the pump (in a shed).  My wife now wants the pump on a timer (to water the garden).



So...I could just add a timer to the switched outlet, but I want to be able to override the timer with the switch (at the patio or shed), without interfering with the pump timer operation.



I've drawn up a diagram showing my proposed setup.



Question: can I rig up the pump with two power cords and plug one into the timed outlet and one into the switched outlet and not burn down my shed in the process?




      

Hi,



I need some help connecting a programmable electronic timer switch to an electronic door lock.  My goal is for the door to only unlock during a set period of time (when the timer is in the "on" position).



I have found two locks that I think may work, I just have no idea what wires to connect to what.



I attached three pictures.  Two of them are of the electronic timer (two different versions), and one is of the locking mechanism. 



Any help is greatly appreciated.
      

I installed an Intermatic brand programmable timer switch to operate some outside house lights (2 CFLs, total 30 watts). The thing worked for a few months and then became non-operational. I just realized that the sticker on the back of the timer switch states "max load ratings: 15 amp, 120 vac", and the circuit I installed it on is 20 amps. Is this why the switched failed? If so, why did it work for a few months? I thought 'load' was the amount of power needed to operate whatever is downstream of the switch, in this case my outside lights, which is under one amp?



Thanks!
      

This is a bit beyond a DIY job, but some of you know that I just opened a new laundromat.  In doing so I took 10 dryers we had in storage for 2 years and installed them at the new location.  They are gas, but of course the controls are electric.  The fan motor is 240/208-120v.  The timer is 120v.  All the relays in the timers are 120, no transformers.  When we hooked everything up after two days of operation the customers complained that the time on the controls did not match their watch.  To our dismay the timers were counting down at twice the normal rate, ie. buy 6 minutes you only get 3 minutes.   This is crazy because all ten worked fine at the old location and now they are all counting down double time. 



I tinkered with the ground wire and even removed the ground to see if it would change.  Nothing.  I switched 120v hot phases and it solved the problem.  I rewired back to original and the problem returned.  I was stunned.  I then opened the sub panel and traded the two hot feeder wires from the main with each other to make the opposite phase and the problem on all ten dryers went away. 



We wired the building 120/208Y, 4 wire + ground.    Our old location was 240v delta 4 wire + ground.    Why would it do this?  I am really surprised this happened. I need to call the timer manufacturer because their engineer was stumped, also and had no idea why the timers were doing this.



What did we miss?



David
      

On my second floor with a High / Low switch and a timer hooked up to it.  The fan works fine on high and the timer works - but if I try to put it on low it stalls out.  I can hear it try to work - it sounds kind of like trying to get a car to turn over.  It starts up, spins for a second and stops and repeats that cycle until I turn it off or set it to high.  The fan was installed when I bought the house so I have no idea how old it is or its brand / model.



Does anyone know what might be causing the problems on low, is it still OK to run it on high, even with the issues on low and is this something that can be fixed easily or does it require special services - electrician or otherwise?
      

I am trying to connect the Digital Timer switch to a 3 way switch. My issue is that the existing switch has 4 wires, Red, Black, White and Ground.



The Digital Timer has 5 wires, Red, Black, White, Blue and Ground (green). I can't understand how to connect it. Any help is appreciated.
      

I am trying to install a SunSmart Digital Timer to my hall lightswitch (single pole). The timer has 5 wires: Black, White, Blue, Red, and Green. My switch box only has 3 wires: Black, White, and the bare ground wire. I connected the black to the black, white to white, and green to the bare ground. I have power to the timer but the light doesn't work. What should I do with the blue and red wires? Right now I have each capped off. Thanks.
      

Just bought some LED lights for the porch, but I realized the new digital timer in wall switch I purchased to replace the on/off says it's for incandescent only.  Been looking online, but couldn't find anything specific for LEDs, what should I use?



Thanks,
      

wanted to get feeback on my crude wiring diagram i put together for my small bathroom remodel. does it appear to be sound or am i way off base??



details:



* 20A dedicated circuit

* 12/2 wiring

* outlet's will be GFCI

* double gang box will contain:

* timer unit for exhaust fan

* double switch for heat lamp and lights

* Ground wiring is not shown but each fixture/outlet/switch will be connected to ground wire

* by calculations, the 34cu box is fine for the number of conductors/size of wiring. per box specs could handle 15/12g wires.

* the scanner cut off the bottom part of the picture, the 2 lights on the right are fed from the same switch, neutral's connected together.



F = Exhaust Fan

L = Light

HL = Heat Lamp

T = Timer switch

S = Switch

H = Hot

N = Neutral

Wire Nuts are in the box connecting the pigtails



Thank you for your input.
      

Hi guys,



I have a Torx 7200 and, while the main wheel turn and the switch "clicks" each time the pins hit, the power doesn't toggle on or off. Is this an easy (cheap) fix or do I need to buy a new timer? By the way, it is controls my pool pump.



Thanks