How To Check Electrical Outlets For The Right Connection?

We're running a new electrical wire & wondering if it would be ok to place it where indicated in the pic... or should we cut out more wall to the left & get it away from the water lines?
      

I know nothing about car stereos, but I had a crazy thought the other day and figured someone here on this board would know home electrical stuff and also car stereo (electrical) stuff.... so here goes....



How difficult would it be to "rig up" a car stereo (or, actually, an in-dash video player/receiver) in a house, hardwired in?



I assume (admittedly, without researching) that the foremost issue is that car power is DC, so the first problem would be getting a transformer to take 110VAC to whatever the stereo required in DC, right?



As far as speakers - are car speakers and home speakers essentially the same, as far as the signal sent to them from the receiver/amp/radio? Or are they a different capacity (resistance ohms or something)? Could you use home speakers (say, small in-ceiling type speakers, like you typically see sold for home theater surround usage) with a car stereo?



Finally, do these systems typically have standard audio and video inputs in the rear (component, composite, S-video, headphone-jack type plug)? I know they typically have an "aux" input on the front (for video game systems, iPods, MP3 players, and whatnot) but do they have connections on the back where it would be out of view when permanently connected (for connection from the satellite box)?



I had this crazy idea that I would love to install one of those car stereos with the slide-out, pop-up TV screen into my bathroom, and have the sound wired to ceiling speakers. If I built a cabinet with a mounting frame that would hold it in place, could this work? I am not looking for some high-end sound system that will blow me away and rock the house, nor do I care about a beautiful HD picture on the TV... I just want to have a small TV and a radio/audio receiver at the vanity area that I could hear with the shower running or whatever, and car systems like this are way less expensive than buying a small LCD TV and a stereo receiver (plus I can't find a receiver small enough). Plus, you would get the added benefit of the TV "disappearing" when not in use. 



Obviously, this would take some rigging - transformers and all - but can anyone clue me in on the feasibility?
      

I'm not sure this is the best place for this post but it certainly applies here. I'm looking to purchase a wire tracer. I'd like it to have these options, which I'm pretty sure they all do from what I've seen so far. Obviously, energized the wire and then trace its whereabouts; some type of decent sized pencil (item used to trace the wires itself) so you can get into smaller places; be able to do A/C, D/C and maybe phones lines too? I've seen the small cheesey one at the big box stores (I think it was made by GB) and wasn't really impressed. I'm leaning towards the Textron unit for phone lines only because the use and somewhat reasonable price. I know the high speed ones are what I'm looking for but I'm not willing to spend $500 on it- I don't think I'd use it enough to justify it. Are there any others ideas/items that I've missed? Any information will be appreciated. Thanks.
      

Each time someone drives by my house using a cell phone it seems there is a one-time clicking noise coming out of several of my electrical outlets.  It may happen in all rooms at the same time but of course, the only ones I notice are in the room I am in currently.



Any ideas, and thanks!
      

I am renting a house and the strangest things have been happening since shortly after moving in.  I am full of static but not in a way that I shock myself as one would normally think - it just raises my hair to a point of unmanageability and is turning it to straw.



I also am hearing little "clicks" from the wall outlets, moreso now than ever.  It seems to affect me with soundwaves (long story) and I am so full of anxiety all the time now that I cannot live with my Mother any longer.  I have recently acquired extra-sensitive hearing (don't know how or why) and because she won't wear her teeth, she whistles when speaking and puts me into huge startle mode.  She is 87 and it's a trying situation anyway, but my symtoms have made it impossible for us to get along now.



As I sit at my computer, I hear a noise in the wall, then hear a hissing/buzzing sound from the computer and am wondering if my proximity to it is only adding to everything else going on here.  The house was remodeled awhile back but someone told me it appears as if they did a good job where electrical is concerned.  Could it be I am attracting curents for some reason?  I don't even know if this is humanly possible but I am in dire need of help and cannot afford an electrition to go through the entire house.



Please, any help would greatly be appreciated!
      

I was replacing a thermostat to my central heating/a/c. while re-wiring the new unit, there was a pop and now there is no power.  The Honeywell guy told me that I probably blew a fuse.  However, I can't find any fuses anywhere.  Can somebody please help me with this?  We don't have the funds to hire a professional for something that sounds so small.  It's over 100 degrees today and I have kids in the home.  Thanks a bunch!
      

I am only using a simple "non-contact" voltage detector. I am getting a reading from the switch, along part of the line and then at the lights themselves, but the lights are not coming on. I have not gotten into the attic yet to check the line and junction box. What could cause this? An open connection or loose connection? Any help with troubleshooting would be great.



This is a new install of lights, they were not existing. Power is at the switch. Had single pole now I have a double switch. (the existing light that was on the single pole is still working fine). At one  point I connected just the new lights to the existing power, single pole switch, and still did not have lights.
      

OK, I took everyone's advice and ran a separate 6/3 w/50A male inlet receptacle back to the panel area so my RV generator can feed the transfer switch.



I'm ordering a Reliance 51406C (50A, 6 circuits).  The generator (Onan 5500) puts out 45A, but my house only needs a small number of circuits because it has mostly natural gas appliances and gas furnace with radiators.



I was wondering if anyone has hardwired one with 6/3 Romex?  The small compartment the unit has for hardwiring looks pretty tight for 6/3 plus the wire nuts.
      

Going through a crazy heat wave here in SoCal, and one of my tenants called to tell me that the electricity isn't on in some of his rooms. He turned on his portable AC unit that he has been using all summer and something may have happened.



Downstairs:The dining room light switch, downstairs light switch do not work. All outlets around them do work though, which is odd cause I would have thought they'd be on the same circuit.



Upstairs: The side bathroom light switch does not work, but outlets all work. In the master bedroom (where the AC unit is located), the master bathroom light switch does not work, nor does the master bedroom light switch. All of the outlets do not work either. I used my outlet tester and it gave me the hot/ground reversed lights. I think this means that the white/black wires are reversed on the outlets (has not changed recently).



I went over, checked all of the breakers. Switched them to off, then back on, did not fix the issue. All breakers stay in the on position without tripping, so no shorts?



Checked all GFCI's, hit test, then reset, did not solve the problem.



We unplugged everything from all outlets, and retried, but it didn't work.



I checked continuity between the main power lines, and the output of the circuit breakers, and all were fine. I did NOT check the voltages though, and will do so in the morning when I stop by again.



Is there anything else I should check?
      

Can you install 6 recessed light off of one circuit by starting at a switch that is designed to turn an outlet on and off for a lamp that sits on a table.  i've determined all of the outlets in one room are on the same circuit.  The max wattage that will be used in that room if all recessed lights and TV etc are on would be approx. 1,500.  the electrical wire in place is 14 g.