Wirl Pool Ground Question
can this be ground to the same copper pipe that has a ground from the service panel since that pipe is right there already supplying the tub .
thanks for the answers so far. i meant whirlpool . Similar Tutorials
How to Lay Sod - The Right Way!
- Make sure the green side faces up! And, there are a few more steps if you want to ensure a nice looking lawn. Prepa ...
The Difference Between Volts, Amps, and Watts
- This article explains the difference between Volts, Amps, and Watts in an easy-to-understand non-scientific way. T ...
Water is Leaking from the Toilet – What do I do? (How to replace the wax seal for a toilet.)
- If there is water leaking from the toilet, you need to make sure that you know from where the water is leaking. Che ... Similar Topics From Forums
I had posted a week or so ago about random afci's tripping aroung my house that is a year old. I am fairly convinced that it's a interference problem or something in my ground system. Outside my house there is a meter and next to it is a small breaker panel with a 200a breaker that feeds the panel downstairs. Outside there are 2 big black wires going to the ground bus. They go inside and one goes to the water pipe that comes in from outside. O can see where the other one goes. Is it important for me to put in a ground rod and run a big wire to the outside box? My las two new houses had them. I'll try to upload a pic of the outside box. Thanks
In a 1950s home the electrical is being redone. Wallboard was removed in the kitchen and there is a kitchen sink drain/vent line (seems to be 1" to 1-1/2" pipe) in the wall which is made of steel. It runs down into the concrete slab and up through the roof. There is an old electrical outlet (which will be removed and replaced) next to it which has a 14/2 cable and a separate small ground conductor running to it. With a meter I measure 50V between the steel pipe and the steel housing of the receptacle. Once the old receptacle is removed and a new one is installed, where and how will the drain pipe be grounded? I am sure there are more steel drain pipes used in this house but not all of them are open and exposed. Will it be sufficient to ground this one steel drain/vent line? If yes how and with what conductor size?
Hello, we recently purchased an above ground pool and had it installed. The city building inspector came out to inspect the electrical and said we would need a bonding grid around the pool and bonding plate in the trench. When I questioned how to do this, his response was to contact the pool manufacturer. I have done this and the manufacturer tells me that since my pool is aluminum wall and the rest of it is resin, I do not need the grid and plate, but will need to insert a bonding screw to the skimmer and drop a copper wire from the screw into the ground. I asked for a schematic on how to do this, but they could not help. I am also concerned that they told me something different then the building inspector did. Can anyone help me with this please? Right now I regret getting this pool, hoping someone can walk me off the ledge. Thank you so much for you time.
I had a previous thread about bonding my inground pool. I had it done yesterday. I set up all the plumbing for my filter and I am going to wire it up tomorrow.
This pump was wired up once before and it is being moved. All the wiring was removed when the contractors were breaking up the concrete. It has a 25 amp breaker that I am going to replace with a GFI 25 amp breaker. I am going to wire it from the breaker box to a switch (1 foot from the box) to the receptacle about 45 feet away. I am going to use 12 gauge solid wire. I am not sure which would be better. Should I use 12/3 romex and use one as the ground or use 3 separate wires colored white, black and green. Also they had the green wire going to the ground bar in the breaker box. I guess I will attach the green(ground) wire to the ground bar and then run it to the green lugs on each receptacle. Also which types of boxes would be best to use metal or plastic. I am going to be using plastic pipe to run the wires.
Hi guys. I'm Dan, and I'm in Knoxville, TN. I know running power to a shed is a very common topic here. I've been doing tons of reading and feel pretty comfortable with the requirements, but I have two questions I haven't been able to find a clear answer to.
First, my situation: I'm having a 10x16 shed built in my backyard, to be used primarily as a woodshop. I need more than a single circuit, so I know I need a subpanel and two grounding rods at least 6' apart, bonded to the subpanel with #6 bare copper wire. My house has 200 amp service, and the main panel is in the garage at the opposite corner of the house from where the shed will go, so it would be pretty inconvenient to run a feeder from, there. But there's an existing 100 amp subpanel in the basement, presumably installed when the previous owner finished the basement. I'll be running a 60 amp feeder from that subpanel to the shed. My total run will be something like 75', so I'm running #6 THWN for the two hots and neutral, and #10 THWN for the ground. I plan to bury it in 1.25" schedule 40 PVC, buried 18" deep. My first question relates to how I need to run the wire when it's not underground. The basement is finished with a drop ceiling, so I plan to run the feeder across the drop ceiling, out of the house, down to the ground (it's a walk-out basement), then underground the 26' to the shed. I assume it still needs to be in conduit for at least the part that runs up the wall of the house. But what about inside, when it runs through the drop ceiling to the panel? Does it need to be in conduit for the whole run? Or would I just staple the four wires to the joists or something? The other question relates to the trench. I've got a rain gutter downspout that discharges right at where the shed will soon be, so I'm running a 40' length of 4" PVC to pipe that water past the shed. It will be buried just about 6-12", just enough to run under the shed. Can I run the power conduit in the same trench (obviously, deeper)? Presumably I'd dig the 18" trench to the shed, lay the schedule 40, then add a few inches of dirt to bring it up to about 12" deep, and extend the trench past the shed at that depth, then lay the 4" drain pipe and backfill. Or do I need to dig two separate trenches? Is there a rule about how far apart they need to be if so? If anyone sees any other flaws or concerns with my plan, please do speak up, I want to do this right. Thanks! Dan
I have a grounding question. I am installing 400a service to my new home. We ran 350MCM wire underground thru 3" conduit from the 2ndary terminal (moped) to the house into a 320A Cooper B-Line meter. From the meter we ran 2 sets of 4/0-4/0-2/0 thru the wall to 2-200a breaker panels ("standard practice", according to my electrical supplier). The ground wire (#4Cu bare) from the grounding rods comes up from the ground and we're curious if there has to be a special splice connecting the ground wire to each breaker panel or can we run thru one breaker panel to then next, say by connecting the ground wire to a ground bus on one panel and running that thru to the next with #4Cu bare or #6Cu in conductor. Different electricians are suggesting different methods and the electrical inspector is unsure, but seems to be leaning towards the "special splice". Any feedback would be appreciated.
We are in the process of redoing the area around our pool. As part of this we are adding a pool house and hot tub (separate from pool).
I have a couple Elecrtical Contractors coming out this weekend to price/put together a plan. Along with talking to several indivuals, I've been lurking around reading and trying to gather info but feel the need to have as much info available prior to getting these estimates and plans. Please excuse any incorrect verbage i might use and appreciate any corrections to my terminoligy So this is what i have The pool house is approx 100 ft from the house. It will have a few and outlets for blenders, minifridge, tv etc the pool equipement consites of a pump, heater and a sand filter. The pump and current heater run off standard 110 lines (however if i upgrade this I dont know if the new one will require a 220 line The pool light seems to run off a standard line as well The hottub requires a 220 40amp line There will be landscaping lighting as well as 2 more outlets for accesories The original setup prior to last year had what looks like 6 or 8 guage (3 wire) directly buried about 6-8 inches under ground. it was running what look to be two 20amp circuits from the main panel inside the house. This wire got split to two separate outlets near the pool. One went directly to the pool equipment and on directy to the pool light switch and some landscaping ighting. With all the enhancements we are making i'm wondering what the best approach will be. I assume a sub panel in the pool house that has one "main breaker" and has its own ground. Then one run to the pool equipment and one run to the hottub and a couple runs to the accesories i mentioned. I have seen several replies on here where individuals talk about "if they were doing the job this is how they would do it". Id be interested in some responses What type of wire would be best to get it to the pool house Does it run right from the main panel in the house? Does direct burial make sense or shold i put it in conduit? I'm already digging a trench three feet deep for water and RG6 (which will be pushed thru conduit) Any question i should make sure i ask the contractors? Thanks in advance for any input
We need to have a new water line put in from the meter in the parking strip to the house. We've recently had a new electrical panel put in and the electricians pounded two grounding rods into the ground outside our house. Because of this, will the house be just as well grounded if we get plastic pipe as if we get metal?
I have a wall outlet I exposed recently. It was meant originally to supply an in-wall air conditioner (long since removed). The outlet is clearly a 120V, 20A fixture. The romex supplying it, however, has been marked in indelible ink by the installer: "220" on both sides of the wire sheath. The wire is 12/2 with ground. What did he mean by this? Could this really a 220V (or 240V) receptacle? Is that possible, using 12/2 and a standard 120V outlet? How do I verify what I've got?
All I want to do is relocate the box and replace the fixture, but the 220 notation sort of threw me. Does anybody have an idea what's going on here? I appreciate your help. I'm new here, so please try not to smack the rookie around too much.
First off im in So Cal. and a few months back my pool equipment stoped working after a rain storm. I have an underground conection that is accseible through a plastic box in the concrete. There is a water proof box there that housed the wiring as it runs from 220 breaker underground to the pool equip., I opened it to find it full of water. The short burned the wiring some where under some 60 feet of cement. I forgot to mention the wiring in existing conduit will not pull through have tried several times even as despreate as a come-along.
Ive had an electrician and Genral contractor both look at it and both said wiring is fried, but im looking for advice on my two options. 1st is cutting a trench in the cement about 60 to 70 feet from circuit breaker to pool equipment. Then using conduit the whole lenght like it was previously but no under ground box. Just two connections breacker & pool Equip. 2nd option the breaker is near my atic. run power from breaker through the house atic to where pops out on the other side of the house. would be about 50 feet through atic and about another 50 feet of conduit 25 above ground attached to eves and 25 below ground to pool equipment. This is a similar route as the gas line to pool equipment they will come out of atic about 20 feet apart then eventually follow similar path is this a problem?? I was told to use 12-3 Romex?? Suggestions on which route to take would be great. Atic is clearly easyer but concerend with closeness to gas line. Thanks before hand for the help |