Outlet Pigtails
Just want to confirm that I'm doing this right. I've already done this to all the outlets in the original part of the house several years ago....but just want to make sure I'm not making some mistake....
This is a typical outlet...one of many on the same branch ckt....I find this a whole lot easier to work with....I shove the main bundle to the back of the box....so if I ever have to pull the outlet out...it's easy....just the 3 wires...instead of 6. Similar Tutorials
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I only have one outlet in my living room and I need another one for sure. What are some ways I can do this? There is not another outlet on the other side of the wall, we had a electrician come add a light with switch and he said something about closing off a line behind the switch box. Is it possible to re-open that line? We also have a attic which I was told at homedepot is easy to do if you have another outlet in the next room you don't use. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Today I was fixing the water valve to the washing machine, and to get access to the water line, I had to disassemble an outlet. To my shock (no pun intended), I discovered that some moron bootlegged the outlet by connecting neutral and ground together.
Now I'm concerned that I may have this elsewhere in the house. What is the best way to test for this? Obviously I will see 120 V from hot to ground in any case, so that doesn't work. Continuity between neutral and ground is normal, because they are connected at the main panel; I measured the resistance between neutral and ground at an outlet close to the main panel, and it was virtually zero. But that doesn't meat it's bootlegged. I don't really want to take each outlet apart. And even if I do that, how would I know that the moron didn't connect ground to neutral somewhere inside a wall? Thanks,
OK, I'm an electrical dummy ...
I have finished basement w/a bathroom. We have an ejector pump off the bathroom that has been plugged into an outlet w/gfi since I've owned the house (10 years). There is also a booster fan for my electric dryer plugged into the outlet (has been the same for 10 years). The only thing that has ever tripped up that outlet is using a hair buzzer in another outlet within the bathroom (but once you hit the reset its fine). This morning I realize the ejector pump was not sucking down the water from the drains. I looked at the outlet and realized it needed to be reset. When I reset it, the pump would run for a few seconds and the outlet would trip up again. Tried this a few times. Thought maybe it was an issue w/the outlet altogether. Neighbor suggested maybe it was an issue with the pump. Went thru various scenarios and bottom line is when I plug the pump into other outlets it works totally fine and once I do that and reset the outlet it was on, the booster fan works fine and the outlet does not trip. So, basically this outlet is tripping when the pump is on it but the pump is not tripping other outlets and the outlet works fine as long as the pump is not on it. What could be causing this? Why would an outlet that housed the two things on it all of a sudden continue to trip when the pump is on it but the pump is fine on its own in another outlet and the outlet is fine on its own w/o the pump?
Hey everyone - question about home wiring that was done when the house was built about 20 years ago (which putting it delicately...is very shoddy at best). I'd like to think of myself as fairly knowledgeable in basic home wiring...but this one has me baffled and I really hope someone can help.
I am redoing a screened-in porch at the back of our house. There is currently a working outlet, and single-pole switch that turns on an outside bug zapper, and a wire running coming into a second switch...then leading into nothing in the ceiling (presumably for a future ceiling fan / light install that was never completed). I gutted the entire porch and using one of those audible voltage testers, discovered the wire than ran into the second switch / ceiling box did NOT work. Not thinking much about it, I tried figuring out how the first switch (to that outdoor bug zapper) was wired. Most of the wiring for that switch and the outlet I mentioned is behind the plywood sheathing of the house...so it's near impossible to figure out where it goes. Initially it LOOKED like the power from the circuit panel came into the outlet first...and then went out to the bug zapper switch. (Why did I think this? The outlet had a B/W wire coming into it...and another B/W going out back into the wall somewhere. Tracing that wire along the basement foundation best I could...it looked like it went right into the bug zapper switch). So wanting to completely eliminate the bug zapper switch, I disconnected all of the wires that were connected to the outlet to figure out which set was leading to it. Here's where I got confused. When I did this and re-tested voltage at the outlet, one set of wires was live...and the other set was dead. And that makes perfect sense. Yet the bug zapper switch STILL worked. OK - so my conclusion: the power for this bug zapper switch isn't coming from the outlet. No problem. But just because I was near it, I decided to also check that 2nd switch / ceiling wire combo...and what do you know - it was LIVE! I got super excited it was working but then super baffled because I didn't do anything to that ceiling wire at all. In fact - all I did was DISconnect 2 sets of wires at a nearby outlet. Confused but happy, I was ready to pack it in for the evening and re-connected the incoming / outgoing wires back to the power outlet. Flipped the circuit breaker on. No issues. BUT - now all of a sudden the 2nd switch / ceiling wire that magically started working was NO longer working - just like it hadn't been since I started this whole process. Logic is telling me it's obviously got something to do with the outlet wiring...since that's the only thing I messed with. But why would the ceiling wire all of a sudden become LIVE when the wires going into the outlet were all disconnected? It's certainly a first for me. Can anyone help me figure this mystery out? Thanks gang!
We are just beginning to start with our kitchen remodel. Today, I mapped out all the circuits and this is what I found.
Circuit # 7 - 20 amp circuit to 1 back splash outlet then to 3 kitchen wall outlets, then to a closet outlet and closet ceiling light and then to a side porch light! Circuit # 8 - 20 amp to Dishwasher and Disposal Circuit # 9 - 20 amp circuit to microwave and kitchen ceiling lights. 2 patio recessed lights and dining room ceiling light. Circuit # 12 - 20 amp circuit to another back splash outlet then to 2 dining room wall outlets. Circuit # 14 - 20 amp to Refrigerator only Circuit # 18 - 15 amp to GFCI outlet in garage then that feeds 3 outlets for 3 bathroom outlets and 1 outside patio outlet. I going to have to add 1 more back splash outlet due to increase in counter space. I'll put the microwave on a dedicated circuit. So I need 2 additional breakers but I only have 1 blank spot in the breaker panel. I guess I can add one of those slim tandem breakers. So my question, is it ok to have additional wall outlets on the same circuit as a back splash outlet? If it's ok I'll lighten up circuit # 7 by putting some of those wall outlets on the additional back splash outlet. Oh, I have 2 20 amp circuits I did not get identified yet! I'll get to those tomorrow. thanks!
We are in the process of redoing the area around our pool. As part of this we are adding a pool house and hot tub (separate from pool).
I have a couple Elecrtical Contractors coming out this weekend to price/put together a plan. Along with talking to several indivuals, I've been lurking around reading and trying to gather info but feel the need to have as much info available prior to getting these estimates and plans. Please excuse any incorrect verbage i might use and appreciate any corrections to my terminoligy So this is what i have The pool house is approx 100 ft from the house. It will have a few and outlets for blenders, minifridge, tv etc the pool equipement consites of a pump, heater and a sand filter. The pump and current heater run off standard 110 lines (however if i upgrade this I dont know if the new one will require a 220 line The pool light seems to run off a standard line as well The hottub requires a 220 40amp line There will be landscaping lighting as well as 2 more outlets for accesories The original setup prior to last year had what looks like 6 or 8 guage (3 wire) directly buried about 6-8 inches under ground. it was running what look to be two 20amp circuits from the main panel inside the house. This wire got split to two separate outlets near the pool. One went directly to the pool equipment and on directy to the pool light switch and some landscaping ighting. With all the enhancements we are making i'm wondering what the best approach will be. I assume a sub panel in the pool house that has one "main breaker" and has its own ground. Then one run to the pool equipment and one run to the hottub and a couple runs to the accesories i mentioned. I have seen several replies on here where individuals talk about "if they were doing the job this is how they would do it". Id be interested in some responses What type of wire would be best to get it to the pool house Does it run right from the main panel in the house? Does direct burial make sense or shold i put it in conduit? I'm already digging a trench three feet deep for water and RG6 (which will be pushed thru conduit) Any question i should make sure i ask the contractors? Thanks in advance for any input
Tearing out a wall cabinet uncovered a hole in the wall which I think I can install an outlet on. The problem is that the ground wires are to short to pull out far enough to attach to the outlet.
However, the box in the wall is metal, so there should still be an path to the ground from the outlet right? Or is there something special about the green screw on the outlet which makes that the only safe spot to attach the ground to? box I uncovered: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...s538/photo.jpg fuzzy picture of the inside of the box showing the ground being attached to metal box: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...303_154810.jpg The outlet I want to install... (although I dont know how to pick the right outlet based on the limited info on the wiring I have, so any help with that would also be appreciated): http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051
I've been the owner of a 1930s era Colonial Revival that our first major project is to rewire the house. We have a 100A main box that is maxed out, a combination of cloth 2-wire, flex, and some cracking Romex along with some downright dangerous open wiring in the basement, tapped wiring in the kitchen and study, some gangboxes that were wallpapered over in the bedrooms that we assume were wall lights (we have similar wall lights in the bathrooms), inadequate outlets in most rooms, no GFI. Etc. Etc. In addition the bathrooms are small and lack wall switches or outlets (they have two pull-cord wall lamps, with one lamp with a outlet.
Here is a floor plan with electrical represented on the ground and second floor. Still working on mapping the basement and the attic (which has a 3/4 converted finished "bonus" room. My Father-In-Law who is a licensed electrician has promised to gracefully donate a couple months of his time to rewire everything. Also a bonus in this is the majority of outlets are mounted on the baseboard trim and not in the plaster. My plans are to go with a single 200A main, likely double the amount of outlets in each room, GFI where needed. While I know some basics, I want to familiarize myself a bit more on what is the best approach to rewire. For instance should I look at running conduit in just one spot of the house, or should I run two on each end of the house? I plan to do some major remodeling of some rooms in the future, especially the kitchen and bath so what are the best ways to ensure I have an easier time with these remodels?
I have this cirucit with a GFCI outlet, then two regular outlets off the load. None of them work. The GFCI reset button was out, push it in, it pops back out.
I replaced the GFCI with a new one and it seems to be fine. (GFCI outlet and load outlets are working). Is this common? (I mean that a GFCI would go bad, and display this for behavior?) Thank you, and if this is a stupid question, you may electronically "dope slap" me!
We just got a used hot tub. It ran fine where we purchased it but since we got it home, it has not run. We installed a new breaker for the hot tub and an GFCI outlet outside. The hot tub inself has a GFCI installed on it. If we plug it into the GFCI outlet it runs for a few seconds and either trips the circuit inside or the hot tub. Is it necessary to have a GFCI outlet outisde if the hot tub has one? We are thinking that this may be our problem..redundancy. Can we install a regular outlet outside instead of the GFCI outlet? When we plug it into a regular outlet it runs. We want to make sure that this is safe before proceeding.
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