Nec Code For Runnings Wires With Joist, Not Through

I want to run Romex from a j-box, that is in the ceiling of my basement, to the main panel.  I know that I can run Romex from the box along the face of the joist (not the bottom), but what are my options once the Romex gets to the wall?  The joist I am using, conveniently enough, meets the wall ideally for where the panel is.  However, I've read that I need to run the Romex through EMT, or some form of conduit.



If you look at the picture I've attached, the panel is mounted on a piece of plywood that extends out underneath the joist.  Can I just staple the Romex to the plywood and then run it into the panel without using any conduit?  The cast iron pipe makes using any conduit quite a problem.



The cable you see is MC Lite, but I want to replace it with Romex.  There are going to be up to 9 more lines coming into the panel this very way.
      

I am selling my house and the Home Inspector said that the basement surfaced mounted receptacles needed to be in conduit because the wires were exposed.  He didnt say anything about the exposed wiring that was stapled to the bottom of the joists had to be in conduit.  Can I just leave the exposed wires on the joist exposed or do I have to but them in conduit too?  Could I also just drill the joists out and run the wire inside them?  Is there a code about this?  Did the Home Inspector forget this?   What would happen if I only fixed the receptacles with conduit and nothing else?  Thanks In Advance!
      

I'm trying to figure out how exactly this should be redone... right now there is a NM cable going from the panel though the rim joist and outside straight down into the ground and out about 2 ft into the sump well then it jus dangles there with a female plug end connected to that which the sump pump then plugs into... well this actually shorted out the other night and created a wonderful noise and sparks...



how should I redo this? right now its not even GFIC... just straight into a 20 amp breaker...



I was thinking put an outside receptical on the side of the house run that straight thorugh the back of it into the rim joist and to the panel... have the outlet on that a GFIC outlet then run a underground line from that to the pump using UF cable with a similar female plug end inside the well (the well is about 11 ft deep and the plug is about 1 ft from the top right now... then that would just plug into the GFIC outlet on the side of the house... that outlet would of course have one of those clear enclosures around it that is water tight...



suggestions? comments? code violations?
      

I was in my attic today doing some work when I noticed a bare twisted copper wire that ran along a ceiling joist.  All along it was charred wood and charred  fiberglass insulation.  Luckily the fire it caused did not sustain itself and I was able to find the problem.  I then traced the wire and figured it originated in my breaker box (although I could not determine exactly where in the box).  It then ran across my attic alongside a ceiling joist and down into a wall ending up connecting to my water meter.

  Several months ago,  the electric company was restoring power to my area and ended up sending a power surge into my house taking out an oscillating fan, a toaster and a GFI outlet.  Last winter, I also had to have my electric meter pole replaced by an electrician after a tree branch took it out during an ice storm.

  I was wondering if one of these events could have caused the ground wire to heat up or something else entirely is going on?  I am suppose to have a company blow in  insulation soon and I need to figure this problem out.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.
      

Getting ready to replace my well jet pump with a 240 volt model (currently I use a 120 volt pump. Currently I have a 20 amp, 120 volt circuit that runs from the house to the pump house about 60 feet. I use that circuit for the pump, a light and a receptacle. I want to replace that circuit with a 20 amp MWBC using 12/3 UF cable from the sub panel in my detached barn to the pump house (about 20 feet).



Question: Can I use 1/2" seal-tite to run from the sub panel to a a junction box prior to going underground with the 12/3 UF? The seal-tight run would be about 30". (I have a bunch of seal-tite, connectors and #12 THWN that I bought cheap at a storage unit auction.) The seal-tite would be run in the stud bay and along side the ceiling joist to get from one side of the barn to the other.



Question: Can I use an unfused air conditioning disconnect at the pump house to disconnect the 2 ungrounded conductors of the MWBC.



I can find nothing in the NEC that would bar either of these items, but I am a code novice.
      

I bought a landscape light at a thrift store to play around with.  It is definitely a well light.  It has a black shell and a round, rather flat bulb.  The connections are exposed on the back of the bulb and the wires screw directly into the bulb.  Looks similar to this:







The only difference is the bulb frame has a little clip that hooks onto the black part to hold it in.  I am interested in what kind of light this is?  I'm assuming it's low voltage?  How can I tell?  Also, what are well lights good to light?  I believe the bulb may say GE.
      

I'm in the final stages of a rough in.... three questions:



1) Do the feeds to the panel need to be in the panel but not connected or is it ok to just have them pulled over by the panel



2) I've got can lights in a drop ceiling - do I just staple the cable to the joist in the area the light will go and coil up the excess?



3) I have an outlet and a switch that I can't disconnect right now(sump pump and a stairway light) but these will be going on new circuits I pulled. Obviously I can't get the box ready, can I just pull the cable and have it there by the existing box? I thought about putting in a new box, but there really is no space for the outlet and we like where the switch is.



I'd call the inspector and ask his preference but it is a voicemail box that has been full for a week.



Thanks.
      

I would love to put a ceiling fan in my living room but my husband isn't anxious about climbing into the attic to anchor it. He's not really that handy. I was wondering if a fan could be hung like light fixture, by a chain. Obviously, the ceiling would have to have a joist to put the hook into so the fan could hang. The chain and cord would be loosely hung near outlet so it could be plugged in.



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I had a previous thread about bonding my inground pool. I had it done yesterday. I set up all the plumbing for my filter and I am going to wire it up tomorrow.

This pump was wired up once before and it is being moved. All the wiring was removed when the contractors were breaking up the concrete. It has a 25 amp breaker that I am going to replace with a GFI 25 amp breaker. I am going to wire it from the breaker box to a switch (1 foot from the box) to the receptacle about 45 feet away. I am going to use 12 gauge solid wire. I am not sure which would be better. Should I use 12/3 romex and use one as the ground or use 3 separate wires colored white, black and green. Also they had the green wire going to the ground bar in the breaker box. I guess I will attach the green(ground) wire to the ground bar and then run it to the green lugs on each receptacle.  Also which types of boxes would be best to use metal or plastic. I am going to be using plastic pipe to run the wires.
      

When is it necessary to use insulated staples?  I bought a bunch of plain metal staples for wiring my garage with 12/2 and plan on leaving the walls open.  There will be four 12/2 wire leaving/entering the switch box, can I use regular staples and staple two pair of wires side by side up the stud or do I need something else like stacker staples?