Romex On Basement Wall To Panel
I want to run Romex from a j-box, that is in the ceiling of my basement, to the main panel. I know that I can run Romex from the box along the face of the joist (not the bottom), but what are my options once the Romex gets to the wall? The joist I am using, conveniently enough, meets the wall ideally for where the panel is. However, I've read that I need to run the Romex through EMT, or some form of conduit.
If you look at the picture I've attached, the panel is mounted on a piece of plywood that extends out underneath the joist. Can I just staple the Romex to the plywood and then run it into the panel without using any conduit? The cast iron pipe makes using any conduit quite a problem. The cable you see is MC Lite, but I want to replace it with Romex. There are going to be up to 9 more lines coming into the panel this very way. Similar Tutorials
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I have an older home and i wanted to add a new 15 amp breaker for a circuit for the outlets for my upstairs. I noticed that the existing old black romex runs from the circuit breaker in electrical conduit in my walls. There is no way i can get more romex through that conduit. Can i add the romex outside the electrical conduit? i am not really sure why they ran through the conduit to begin with.
I have an older house I which I need to replace/update some romex wiring. I was planning on turning of the power to the circuit, remove the devices from the wall box and then remove the box. I was hoping to use the old wire to pull the new wire. My problem is how to remove the old wire from the cable staple so it will be lose to use for pulling. Any suggestions?
QUESTION: can I run (2) 14-2 romex wires in (1) 3/4 BX Armored cable?
SETUP: I am finishing my basement and a few main floor circuits are intermingled with the basement lights and outlets. In finishing the basement, all basement electrical will be on its own circuit. Therefore, I need to rewire some main floor items. For instance, the main floor living room outlets go through the den area below in the basement. The 3/4 BX cable goes through the ceiling to the outlets. PLAN: I plan to cut the armored cable shortly after it comes out of the ceiling (main floor floor) and just connect the first floor outlets in a series using the proper bushing and BX cable ends. I will strap the BX cable ends down and the romex as soon as it comes out. The electrical inspector already gave me thumbs up on doing this for the electric oven and cooktop (bigger wires of course). I searched and couldn't find anything to this specific question. Any input? B
I have three romex coming into one arm of the recessed light. 1 from a new recessed light, 1 from switch and 1 from not sure where. I connected all the blacks/whites/grounds to the recessed light but the light doesn't turn off when I flipped the circuit back on.
When I took the existing light out it had two romex going in but funny (or not) thing was one of the reds wasn't hooked up, it was just sitting there, no wire caps and not attached to anything. I tried it once with the red in with the blacks and one without and neither would turn the light off. The other romex that came from the switch didn't have a red. Light worked fine. Please advise
My existing service entrance consists of an external Meter can mounted on the outside of the garage wall directly behind a SD Main Breaker Panel (MBP) with a 150 amp main breaker. In order to support upgrades, I am installing a second MBP (200 amp) inside the garage in the wall cavity right next to the existing panel.
Local code requires that the upgraded Meter can be purchased from the City Utility. I have already confirmed with the local inspector that either 4/0 Al or 2/0 Cu SE cable are acceptable for both the existing and new MBP. My question is what is the code requirement for getting the 3 SE cables run from the dual lugs to the new panel? Can those conductors run into the same wall cavity where the existing panel is installed? If so, I'm certain they can't go through the same conduit nipple that connects the back of the meter can to the existing MBP. Can they route in behind/above/below the existing panel and through a hole in the wall stud to gain access to the adjacent stud bay to get to the new panel? If not, do they need to be routed out of the meter can on the external wall in conduit over to the next stud bay and then enter the wall there to gain access to the new panel? If external conduit is required I would expect it must be metallic as opposed to PVC. Best Regards, Ted
Is it permissible to run a single bare wire from an ungrounded receptacle to the panel if the bare wire is not part of the Romex cable?
May a bare wire be ran to a j-box that has a ground while being outside the Romex jacket? I don't want to run a new cable, as I have plenty more #14/#12 bares than I do full cable. Thanks
In my older home i just founf out that all the upstairs ( 2 bedrooms) outlets are installed on the same 20 amp circuit breaker for my kitchen. which might be a reason that when too many things are running this breaker trips. My question is I want to add a 15 amp breaker and isolate all the upstairs on this breaker so the kitchen stays seperate. i Found the romex that is installed to a downstairs outlet that is connected to all the other outlets upstairs but since it is hidden in the walls and i narrowed it down to 3 possiblities upstairs, but i am not sure. How can i test to see which one of the romex wires it could be so i can attach my new romex from the new breaker and just abandon the old wire all together.
PS. when i disconnnect the romex from the outlet downstairs in the kitchen all the outlets upstairs stop working, that is how i know that is the one that brings the electriity upstairs.
I have 2" grey pvc conduit running from my basement underneath a patio and terminating vertically from the ground a few feet past the edge of the patio (in the dirt). I want to install an outlet on the stone wall at the edge of this patio. I do not know how to properly return the wire from that open 2" vertical conduit back to the wall a few feet away. I assume I need a junction box on the existing conduit, but can't find one with a 2" inlet. I would like to keep the connections buried if possible, return with a smaller conduit to the wall and up to a mounted outlet box (weatherproof). Any suggestions about how to manage the conduit connections from the vertical pipe?
Tom
Help! We decided to raise the ceiling in our kitchen for some new taller cabinets. We have 30" cabinets with a 7' drop ceiling. By taking out the drop ceiling we can go to an 8' ceiling with 36" cabinets. We just had the ceiling taken out and now I see I got a problem!
This is a 2 story home, the wall in question is a load bearing wall (runs through the center of the house) The main breaker panel is in this wall (the panel opening is in the adjacent family room) As you can see in the photos I cannot extend the wall up because all of the home wiring is in the way! I expected I might have to run longer wires but not this. Some ideas we've thought about... notch the double 2x4s (not sure how much I need to notch or allowed to) build a cove (box) and leave the wires like they are (might be an eyesore in our new kitchen) put up a large crown moulding along the entire wall (would be the only crown moulding in the house) extend the ceiling up 6-7" instead of 12" (should leave enough room for wire to stay) I'm leaning to the notching option if I can find a way to reinforce that section. Any ideas? thanks!
I have a lamp post outside that I am going to replace this spring with a new one... right now they just have 14-2 romex ran underground to it... not in a conduit or anything... should I replace this with UF cable? or is NM cable still the way to do something simple like this? Also should I use conduit?
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