Vanity Light Spacing On 72" Double Sink Counter

I am only using a simple "non-contact" voltage detector. I am getting a reading from the switch, along part of the line and then at the lights themselves, but the lights are not coming on. I have not gotten into the attic yet to check the line and junction box. What could cause this? An open connection or loose connection? Any help with troubleshooting would be great.



This is a new install of lights, they were not existing. Power is at the switch. Had single pole now I have a double switch. (the existing light that was on the single pole is still working fine). At one  point I connected just the new lights to the existing power, single pole switch, and still did not have lights.
      

Hello again Gurus,



Will a double pole 15A 277v light switch work as a shut off for my air handler? I had to run all the electrical prior to them installing the central air and I wired a double pole switch from my 15A double pole breaker. I ran to the line/load ie black/white to the bottom posts on the switch. Thinking they can just run black/white from the air handler to the top. When the switch is UP> Live power to air handler. If it it's down (OFF), it means they can service the unit. Is my thinking correct on this? I couldn't find any other switches.



Thank You



~S
      

I am planning on installing recessed lights in my basement.  The ceiling is currently unfinished, so I have complete access to it.  Would you suggest I use 5" or 6" lights?  Also, I have attached a picture of dimensions and the small circles are where I have the lights going.  Using a total of 15 lights in 3 rows.  Is this too many lights?  Is the spacing correct?
      

Summary of what I'm doing:



Adding 2 outlets for above and below cabinet lighting.  Lights are line-level and plug into an outlet.  I want to install a single double-rocker switch to control each of these outlets.



All of the double rockers I can find are 15-amp.  The circuit I am planning to use for power is a 20a.  Am I sunk?  Will I need to install 2 single 20a switches?  I would only put 15a outlets in, obviously, but this doesn't seem like the right way.  Are there 20a switches that I just can't seem to find?



This is what I'm looking for:





One other thing, the circuit I am using for this is GFCI protected.  Should the lighting part of this circuit go to the load (to be GFCI protected) or is it advisable to put the lights before the GFCI?
      

I have a small 19 gallon water heater in a small garage space, that was installed by some questionable handymen a few months back.  I just had the plumbing and septic finished so tested the hot water, only to find the element was already burned out.



I noticed however, that this 120v unit is wired via 10 gauge wire to a 30 amp double breaker.  This is questionable because I thought a 120v appliance would be wired to a single pole on the hot wire and run neutral to the neural panel area.



My question is, can I run the hot wire out of one side of the double breaker without safety issues, or should I definitely replace it with a single pole breaker?



I would normally not question the work, but everything these guys did already had to be adjusted, so I'm only naturally assuming this may need to be also.



If its safe, I would like to simply things and just connect the one hot and leave an open space in the other half of the double pole... Is this possible?



Thanks for your advice-
      

Can i run 20amp double pole breaker for 120v outlets
      

I have a pendant light over my kitchen sink, it's been in place for about 8 months. It seems to burn out bulbs a little quick, and they're usually a white smokey look when they do burn out.  Also, the cable next to the light is turning from a clear to a brown. I'm not sure if it's just from heat, and is ok... or if it's a hazard?  I don't see any evidence of melting on the cable or in the light socket.



I checked voltage, and it's around 121.5.  The fixture uses 60 watt max candalabra bulbs, and that's what I use in it.
      

In a 1950s home the electrical is being redone. Wallboard was removed in the kitchen and there is a kitchen sink drain/vent line (seems to be 1" to 1-1/2" pipe) in the wall which is made of steel. It runs down into the concrete slab and up through the roof. There is an old electrical outlet (which will be removed and replaced) next to it which has a 14/2 cable and a separate small ground conductor running to it. With a meter I measure 50V between the steel pipe and the steel housing of the receptacle. Once the old receptacle is removed and a new one is installed, where and how will the drain pipe be grounded? I am sure there are more steel drain pipes used in this house but not all of them are open and exposed. Will it be sufficient to ground this one steel drain/vent line? If yes how and with what conductor size?
      

When repairing a light switch I came across this wiring in a supposed 3-way setting in my kitchen.  Two Single Pole Double Throw switches controlling a single light fixture. 



Check out the quick and dirty wiring diagram showing the way these are connected.  I believe there should be a 14/3 between the two switches right?



All I see is 14/2 coming in and a 14/2 going across to the other switch, and then a 14/2 going to the light. And why are the neutrals cut and wire capped?  This doesn't make sense to me, but the light does work from both switches.



Any insight will be greatly appreciated.



Cheers!
      

Hidy!

Hoping someone can guide me in the right direction. I have essentially no experience with electrical anything unless its a computer, and I am remodeling my Mother's guest room. We picked a pendant light to replace the old flushmount lighting. I've got the old one removed (and yes I have the power off in the room ), and I cannot figure out how to do this based on the instructions given (or on any video I have watched).



There are two copper "wires" coming down from the ceiling. They are both wrapped in black insulation, and they form like a little hoop/circle on the end. The fixture has a copper wire, not insulated, and like a double copper wire insulated with brownish black coating. Sorry...I don't know technical terms here, but I would be happy to post pics.



I just need help installing this thing. I've done flooring and plumbing and everything else you can imagine a chcik might figure out how to do, but I am stumped here. Please help me do this! It doesn't seem like it should be this difficult!