Basement Heat

Hey all, new to the forum and had a few questions about the electric I plan on installing in my basement I am working on finishing.   Here is what the plans call for...



- Bathroom

  - 2 Lights, one GFCI, vent fan

- Home theater

  - Projector, Sound system, various other electronics

- General Lighting throughout

  - 14 Recessed lights approx 60 watt bulbs

  - 14 outlets

  - Mini bar fridge

I will have to run the line from the garage to the basement and my question is should I go 15 or 20 and will I need more than one line to support this?  Any info or direction you guys can give would be greatly appreciated!!



Tom
      

QUESTION:  can I run (2) 14-2 romex wires in (1) 3/4 BX Armored cable?



SETUP: I am finishing my basement and a few main floor circuits are intermingled with the basement lights and outlets.  In finishing the basement, all basement electrical will be on its own circuit. Therefore, I need to rewire some main floor items.



For instance, the main floor living room outlets go through the den area below in the basement. The 3/4 BX cable goes through the ceiling to the outlets.



PLAN:  I plan to cut the armored cable shortly after it comes out of the ceiling (main floor floor) and just connect the first floor outlets in a series using the proper bushing and BX cable ends. I will strap the BX cable ends down and the romex as soon as it comes out.



The electrical inspector already gave me thumbs up on doing this for the electric oven and cooktop (bigger wires of course).



I searched and couldn't find anything to this specific question.



Any input?



B
      

Is lowse electric fireplace reduce total heating costs better than home depot? Thanks



lowse 4600 BTU Electric Fireplace with Remote

Zone heating will help reduce total heating costs

No venting required

Electric fireplaces plug into a standard electrical outlet

Can be used with or without heat

and
Home Depot Electric Fireplace plugs into a standard 110-volt outlet and has a classic wood finish. It offers the cozy ambience of a real fireplace without the maintenance or venting requirements. This fireplace features a freestanding design and generates up to 4,600 BTU/hr heat output for rooms up to 1000 sq. ft

Plugs into any standard 110-volt electric outlet

up to 4600 BTU hr heat output for rooms up to 1,000 sq ft

Adjustable thermostatic control

Freestanding
      

Finishing basement and have a few questions...



1. Have already bought recessed cans. Commercial Electric brand. I have now read a few places that these are junk. Why exactly and should I return them? Need to know know before I paint them black.



2. I plan on installing 12 lights on new 15A circuit using 2 switches one for left side of basement one for right (6 x 6). This is OK yes? Both switches will be in same box. And will be only thing on this new circuit.



3. Assuming I am running hot lead from main panel to switch box...there is no fancy wiring that needs to be done correct? 14/2 black to black, white to white except at switch correct?
      

Hi all, I'm new here.  I have an oil furnace in the basement of my house with the on/off switch mounted on it.  I would like to move this switch to door entering my basement.  I know I'll 1/2 inch EMT conduit and related connectors and wire for the run.  But, I do not know what guage wire I need for this.  It's approx. 50 feet from furnace location to on/off switch box location on the furnace.  Thank you for your help.  Roger
      

Hi All.



Well, we moved into a house with finished basement, but my wife 'had' given me full jurisdiction over the basement.  So, I decided to install nice, recessed lighting into the basement recreation room.



I put in the halogen potlights (50W) with dimmers, so that they can be adjusted.



However, my wife can't stand the intensity of the lights but this is how they are.



Do they sell covers for these so that I can cover it up to cut off the intensity (similar to camera flashes)?  Please let me know if you have a recommendation.



Thanks!!
      

I've been the owner of a 1930s era Colonial Revival that our first major project is to rewire the house. We have a 100A main box that is maxed out, a combination of cloth 2-wire, flex, and some cracking Romex along with some downright dangerous open wiring in the basement, tapped wiring in the kitchen and study, some gangboxes that were wallpapered over in the bedrooms that we assume were wall lights (we have similar wall lights in the bathrooms), inadequate outlets in most rooms, no GFI. Etc. Etc. In addition the bathrooms are small and lack wall switches or outlets (they have two pull-cord wall lamps, with one lamp with a outlet.



Here is a floor plan with electrical represented on the ground and second floor. Still working on mapping the basement and the attic (which has a 3/4 converted finished "bonus" room.



My Father-In-Law who is a licensed electrician has promised to gracefully donate a couple months of his time to rewire everything. Also a bonus in this is the majority of outlets are mounted on the baseboard trim and not in the plaster.



My plans are to go with a single 200A main, likely double the amount of outlets in each room, GFI where needed.



While I know some basics, I want to familiarize myself a bit more on what is the best approach to rewire. For instance should I look at running conduit in just one spot of the house, or should I run two on each end of the house? I plan to do some major remodeling of some rooms in the future, especially the kitchen and bath so what are the best ways to ensure I have an easier time with these remodels?
      

I'm renovating my 1960's ranch house and the kitchen circuits alone are causing me to put in a new breaker panel. The house is 1200 square feet with a 1200 square foot daylight basement -- 3 BR, 3 BA all together. And everything is electric, including the heat.



Please check out my proposed circuit plan for the kitchen and laundry areas. I am trying to figure out which circuits I can combine so that I will still have room in my new 40/40 200A Siemens panel to wire the rest of the house.



FYI, the house is located in Washington state and I have pulled a permit. Thanks in advance for your guidance!
      

I'm currently working on a house built in the 1930's. The electrical is a mess with a combination of a switch panel  and a fuse box with most of it still being knob and tube. I'm running a new electrical line to the air handler in the basement. This is due to it currently being tapped off a light circuit which also feeds an outlet in the kitchen, a bedroom, and half the outlets upstairs. (There's no rhyme or reason to the current electrical setup). 



  My main question is I'm running  12NM through bored holes in the studs to the air handler. Once I get to the handler and run it down to where it enters the appliance and switch box will I run in to codes problems. Should this run in the basement be inside a conduit or is NM cable okay? 

  Any guidance would be appreciated. 
      

I searched for this answer and could not find it.  I am not sure which brand of furnace I have.  When I opened the cover it says the model number is  G1N80AT100D14B-2.   My furnace works great on heat.  Now that it is hot outside I would like to run the fan setting to get some extra circulation in the house.  I don't have A/C.  How do I hookup my furnace to only operate the fan?  I tried using the "on" setting on the thermostat on both the heat and cool setting but that didn't work.  I am a novice so please walk me step by step.  I am hoping I just switch one of the jumpers on the circuit board.  By the way, I don't believe that my thermostat is even hooked up to the cool setting at all.  Thanks in advance!