Electrical Requirements For Large Whole Home System

I know nothing about car stereos, but I had a crazy thought the other day and figured someone here on this board would know home electrical stuff and also car stereo (electrical) stuff.... so here goes....



How difficult would it be to "rig up" a car stereo (or, actually, an in-dash video player/receiver) in a house, hardwired in?



I assume (admittedly, without researching) that the foremost issue is that car power is DC, so the first problem would be getting a transformer to take 110VAC to whatever the stereo required in DC, right?



As far as speakers - are car speakers and home speakers essentially the same, as far as the signal sent to them from the receiver/amp/radio? Or are they a different capacity (resistance ohms or something)? Could you use home speakers (say, small in-ceiling type speakers, like you typically see sold for home theater surround usage) with a car stereo?



Finally, do these systems typically have standard audio and video inputs in the rear (component, composite, S-video, headphone-jack type plug)? I know they typically have an "aux" input on the front (for video game systems, iPods, MP3 players, and whatnot) but do they have connections on the back where it would be out of view when permanently connected (for connection from the satellite box)?



I had this crazy idea that I would love to install one of those car stereos with the slide-out, pop-up TV screen into my bathroom, and have the sound wired to ceiling speakers. If I built a cabinet with a mounting frame that would hold it in place, could this work? I am not looking for some high-end sound system that will blow me away and rock the house, nor do I care about a beautiful HD picture on the TV... I just want to have a small TV and a radio/audio receiver at the vanity area that I could hear with the shower running or whatever, and car systems like this are way less expensive than buying a small LCD TV and a stereo receiver (plus I can't find a receiver small enough). Plus, you would get the added benefit of the TV "disappearing" when not in use. 



Obviously, this would take some rigging - transformers and all - but can anyone clue me in on the feasibility?
      

First off im in So Cal. and a few months back my pool equipment stoped working after a rain storm. I have an underground conection that is accseible through a plastic box in the concrete. There is a water proof box there that housed the wiring as it runs from 220 breaker underground to the pool equip., I opened it to find it full of water. The short burned the wiring some where under some 60 feet of cement. I forgot to mention the wiring in existing conduit will not pull through have tried several times even as despreate as a come-along.



Ive had an electrician and Genral contractor both look at it and both said wiring is fried, but im looking for advice on my two options.



1st is cutting a trench in the cement about 60 to 70 feet from circuit breaker to pool equipment. Then using conduit the whole lenght like it was previously but no under ground box. Just two connections breacker & pool Equip.



2nd option the breaker is near my atic. run power from breaker through the house atic to where pops out on the other side of the house. would be about 50 feet through atic and about another 50 feet of conduit 25 above ground attached to eves and 25 below ground to pool equipment. This is a similar route as the gas line to pool equipment they will come out of atic about 20 feet apart then eventually follow similar path is this a problem?? I was told to use 12-3 Romex?? Suggestions on which route to take would be great. Atic is clearly easyer but concerend with closeness to gas line. Thanks before hand for the help
      

Live in California...  Pool and backyard remodel



Running a new 100Amp line from the main electrical house box that is 200amp to the new Hayward ProLogic Pool sub panel for the pool equipment. Is that #2 wire or #4?



The pool installers are telling me that they need 50 amps for the 3 pumps, 2 pool lights and gas heater that I have. 



The reason that I'm running 100amps to the sub panel and only using 50amps for the pool is because there is electrical going to the overhang and backyard that can be controlled by a remote that talks to the ProLogic sub panel.



I have a overhang/BBQ area that has 17Amps for the refer and BBQ, a water feature which is about 15-20 amps, 2 ceiling fans for the overhang, low-voltage lights for the overhang, low-voltage landscaping lights for the backyard only. I think that is about it.



Inspector is telling me that I need a GFCI at the sub panel. Is this a 100amp GFCI prior to the sub panel being wired? Or does each piece of equipment need a GFCI?



I am having a licensed electrical contractor do this, but I'm just trying to do my homework because some of them are not knowledgeable about pool wiring... 

(BTW, I had a licensed contractor out yesterday, to give me a bid and he said that they didn't make a 100amp GFCI, which of course I did see on the internet, not using him!!)
      

I am going to try and shed some much needed light on doing your own electrical work in The Great Police State of New Jersey. I will continue to add to this thread as time permits. Please do not PM me as I would rather respond to your questions and comments in this thread so that others may benefit as well.



Currently New Jersey is using the 2008 NEC for all new construction.

For any work falling under the Rehab Subcode - 2005 NEC.

The 2011 NEC has not been adopted yet.



The NEC as written is not the the electrical code for NJ. The Electrical Subcode can be found in the Uniform Construction Code of New Jersey (UCC). Currently the UCC has adopted the 2008 NEC with modifications which can be found here on page 67. While none of the modifications are severe changes from what is in the book, it still needs to be stated.



One of the modifications reads as follows;



3. Chapter 2 of the electrical subcode, entitled "Wiring and Protection," is amended as follows:

i. Section 210.8 (A)(2) and (5) of Article 210, entitled Branch Circuits, is deleted; it is replaced by Section 210.8(A)(2) and (5) and the exceptions in the National Electrical Code 2005 as follows:

"210.8(A)(2) - Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.

Exception No. 1 to (2) - Receptacles that are not readily accessible.

Exception No. 2 to (2) - A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that, in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another and that is cord-and-plug connected in accordance with 400.7(A)(6), (A)7, or (A)(8).

Receptacles installed under the exceptions to 210.8(A)(2) shall not be considered as meeting the requirements of 210.52(G).

210.8(A)(5) - Unfinished basements: For purposes of this section, unfinished basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and the like.

Exception No. 1 to (5) - Receptacles that are not readily accessible.

Exception No. 2 to (5) - A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that, in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another and that is cord-and-plug connected in accordance with 400.7(A)(6), (A)7, or (A)(8).

Exception No. 3 to (5) - A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection."



What this means is that we are reverting back to the 2005 NEC for these sections when wiring a new building.



When wiring an existing building the Rehab Subcode needs to be reviewed. Currently all work being performed under the Rehab Subcode must comply with the 2005 NEC. This includes the installation of AFCI devices, which in most cases are not required.



Permits and inspections are regulated under the UCC. Everything anyone needs to know about the Construction Department can be found in the UCC. The Rehab Subcode can also be found in the UCC.



THe Rehab Subcode comes into play if you are performing work on an existing structure.



To check if someone has an EC license go here.



For electrical contractor licensing requirements go here. New Jersey does not reciprocate with any other state.



Electrical contractors laws and regulations here.



List of inspectors by municipality here.



Online permit forms and application here. Note: All municipalties are required to accept these forms. If a town refuses them, call the DCA @ Phone: (609) 292-7898, (609) 292-7899, Fax: (609)-633-6729 and complain.



Assorted DCA forms here.



Home Improvement Contractors information here. List of licensed HI contractors here.



Fire Alarm, Burglar Alarm and Locksmith info here.



Home Inspectors here.



After reading this perhaps you will have a new found respect for what contractors go through everyday in order to work in this great state.





To be continued...,



I would like to know if this information has helped anyone. Please post a thanks if it does. Thanks
      

We are in the process of redoing the area around our pool. As part of this we are adding a pool house and hot tub (separate from pool).



I have a couple Elecrtical Contractors coming out this weekend to price/put together a plan. Along with talking to several indivuals, I've been lurking around reading and trying to gather info but feel the need to have as much info available prior to getting these estimates and plans. Please excuse any incorrect verbage i might use and appreciate any corrections to my terminoligy



So this is what i have 



The pool house is approx 100 ft from the house.

It will have a few and outlets for blenders, minifridge, tv etc

the pool equipement consites of a pump, heater and a sand filter. The pump and current heater run off standard 110 lines (however if i upgrade this I dont know if the new one will require a 220 line



The pool light seems to run off a standard line as well



The hottub requires a 220 40amp line



There will be landscaping lighting as well as 2 more outlets for accesories



The original setup prior to last year had what looks like 6 or 8 guage (3 wire) directly buried about 6-8 inches under  ground. it was running what look to be two 20amp circuits from the main panel inside the house. This wire got split to two separate outlets near the pool. One went directly to the pool equipment and on directy to the pool light switch and some landscaping ighting.



With all the enhancements we are making i'm wondering what the best approach will be.



I assume a sub panel in the pool house that has one "main breaker" and has its own ground. Then one run to the pool equipment and one run to the hottub and a couple runs to the accesories i mentioned.



I have seen several replies on here where individuals talk about  "if they were doing the job this is how they would do it". Id be interested in some responses



What type of wire would be best to get it to the pool house

Does it run right from the main panel in the house?

Does direct burial make sense or shold i put it in conduit? I'm already digging a trench three feet deep for water and RG6 (which will be pushed thru conduit)



Any question i should make sure i ask the contractors?





Thanks in advance for any input
      

Anyone have any experience with buying stuff like electrical outlets or tools in (central) Budapest preferably? Looking for shops to visit, preferably in Budapest. Going there this summer. Appreciate any answers, also from anyone knowing of any decent Hungarian webshops for the same.



Cheers,



dogs
      

I have a grounding question.  I am installing 400a service to my new home.  We ran 350MCM wire underground thru 3" conduit from the 2ndary terminal (moped) to the house into a 320A Cooper B-Line meter.  From the meter we ran 2 sets of 4/0-4/0-2/0 thru the wall to 2-200a breaker panels ("standard practice", according to my electrical supplier).  The ground wire (#4Cu bare) from the grounding rods comes up from the ground and we're curious if there has to be a special splice connecting the ground wire to each breaker panel or can we run thru one breaker panel to then next, say by connecting the ground wire to a ground bus on one panel and running that thru to the next with #4Cu bare or #6Cu in conductor.  Different electricians are suggesting different methods and the electrical inspector is unsure, but seems to be leaning towards the "special splice". Any feedback would be appreciated.
      

I am renovating my modest home's living room, but, since the walls and ceiling are basically stripped bare, I would like to consider "toys and luxuries" which would need to be wired in upfront here, such as ipad syncing controls for stereo or lighting, decent built-in speaker systems, etc.  What kinds of devices are contemporary homes incorporating nowadays?  I am not super-nerdy, but a couple "gee whiz" devices might be fun to have!   Suggestions?   Thanks in advance.
      

Hey guys,

we have a 4-plex in San Diego that we bought several months ago that was built in 1950. According to inspector's report, we needed electrical upgrades. One of the electricians told us city is under a project to underground all the electrical lines, and if we do not do upgrades the way city EXPECTS us, once our neighborhood is due for undergounding, we will have to REDO the whole thing again (like changing the location of the MAIN electrical panel from where it is now).

Can they FORCE these upgrades to the owners? I am talking about a 15000-20000$ that will be required... It is not cheap...



What we wanted to do is the very minimum, but to make sure our tenants are safe: just replace fuses in each unit with BREAKERS and leave it in the closets as we "grandfathered" them in and replace the main panel fuse with a breaker.

But according to the advise of an electrician based on the city undergrounding requirements, we will have to RELOCATE the fuses from closets to the OUTSIDE of the building AND RELOCATE the main panel from where it is now to an opposite direction (closer to the main street).

Can the city ENFORCE us to do this?
      

Hello,



I am redoing my electrical system from the weatherhead to the breaker box so I'm sure I'll be asking quite a few questions in the relatively near future.



My city uses the 2008 NEC with virtually no amendments (none pertaining to what I'm doing).



I've got a copy of  the NEC... wow, what a document, HA!



I've got the permit already and have been in contact with the inspector already.



He says my best bet is to use 2 grounding rods (so he doesn't have to measure resistance in the soil etc if I only have one).



What size (diameter) solid copper rods are used?



What length?



When they are placed 6' apart, is that: no more than 6, no less than 6, or exactly 6'?



Thank you all for your help!