Another Puzzling Question About A Gfci Outlet--(problem Found)
A word of thanks and a followup on my question.
I had to try three GFCI recepticles before I got one that wouldn't trip! More then likely these two that would trip must have been more sensitive and may work in a different circuit. Interestingly, changing the outlet was the first thing I did. Didn't think two would do the same thing. Another experience I can add to my notebook. Similar Tutorials
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I have a home that I only use from time to time. At Christmas one of the GFCI outlets kept tripping. This outlet has a TV/reciever/cable box/xbox/lights, etc. on the load side. When I reset it, everything would be OK for 20 minutes or so, then it would trip. I did not have time to investigate the problem so I just left it. When I returned a week or so ago, the outlet was tripped and would not reset. As soon as I pushed the reset button in, it would pop back out. I replace the GFCI outlet but that did not help. I removed all load outlets and inspected them. Everything looked OK. Anyone have an idea. The strange thing to me is that the problem seemed to get worse over time. (I.e. it stayed reset for 30 minutes at Christmas and now it will not reset at all). Ideas? Thanks in advance.
Hello.
I recently purchased a home that has a a new grounded breaker panel but none of the outlets themselves are grounded save the hvac system in the basement. I had an electrician come and he said the fastest way to get it done is to switch the appropriate breakers to GFCI breakers in my service box and then I can change the outlets and then just put the stickers that say ungrounded etc on the new 3 prong receptacles. he called the inspector to double check and the inspector told him that he can't do it this way but he needs to find the first outlet in the loop from each breaker line and change that receptacle to a gfci and then we can change each receptacle to 3 prong in that loop. Wouldn't just changing the breaker do the same thing? also if I did just install a Gfci receptacle on the first outlet in the loop, if it breaks wouldn't the rest of the outlets behind that gfci not function until I replaced the Gfci outlet where as a breaker would just pop and I can simply go turn it back on? Just wanted to get some opinion from the experts as I'm willing to spend more on doing gfci breakers and am confused as to why the inspector suggested the way he did Thanks for any help!
Hi all, this is my first post, so...my kitchen was just renovated and the electrical outlets are on the walls and I wanted them in plugmold under the cabinet. Why didn't it happen? Long story, but I'm doing it myself now. The electrical receptacles are on 2 separate circuits with a gfci receptacle on each and neither circuit has a receptacle outside the kitchen where I can put the gfci's, so I'm putting gfci breakers in the panel instead. I've run into a different problem on each circuit that'd like some advice on.
Circuit 1: this is a 20 amp circuit. I have to plug this circuit's neutral wire into the gfci breaker, but I couldn't see which neutral wire matched the hot wire (buried in mess of wires) and I don't have a continuity tester so I just pulled one neutral at a time (tedious) until the circuit failed, but it never failed. So I did this again for every neutral...same result. This circuit shares a few boxes with other circuits so I'm wondering if the neutrals on different circuits are tied together somewhere, and if so I'm pretty sure, but not completely, that that's not going to work with the gfci breaker. So I didn't install that gfci breaker since I'm not confident it would actually gfci (yep i verbified gfci). What do you think? Circuit 2: this is a 20 amp circuit. This circuit currently has the refrigerator, gas stove and range hood, and then a gfci in front of 3 electrical receptacles, which already sounds bad since I thought the kitchen receptacles required 2 dedicated circuits. I replaced that breaker with no problem, but it tripped after a few minutes and continued to trip every few minutes. I haven't changed anything else on that circuit yet and it's never tripped before, but now it is, so I put the old breaker back for now. The current gfci receptacle is only protecting the 3 outlets since the appliances are ahead of it. I know you wouldn't normally want the appliances gfci protected, so do you think the refrigerator motor may be a problem? Do I need the appliances on a separate circuit? What would you suggest I do? Thanks, and if you're wondering "why all the effort?", it's partly because I'm meddlesome, partly because I'm bored, and partly because the backsplash tile is to be on showcase, not the electrical receptacles.
I currently have a shower light and fan wired downstream from a GFCI receptacle. I am pretty sure they are wired into the load side of the GFCI. I will make sure again after work today. My problem right now is the light and fan does not trip when the TEST button is pushed. Only the receptacle will trip.
What did I do wrong?
I have this cirucit with a GFCI outlet, then two regular outlets off the load. None of them work. The GFCI reset button was out, push it in, it pops back out.
I replaced the GFCI with a new one and it seems to be fine. (GFCI outlet and load outlets are working). Is this common? (I mean that a GFCI would go bad, and display this for behavior?) Thank you, and if this is a stupid question, you may electronically "dope slap" me!
We just got a used hot tub. It ran fine where we purchased it but since we got it home, it has not run. We installed a new breaker for the hot tub and an GFCI outlet outside. The hot tub inself has a GFCI installed on it. If we plug it into the GFCI outlet it runs for a few seconds and either trips the circuit inside or the hot tub. Is it necessary to have a GFCI outlet outisde if the hot tub has one? We are thinking that this may be our problem..redundancy. Can we install a regular outlet outside instead of the GFCI outlet? When we plug it into a regular outlet it runs. We want to make sure that this is safe before proceeding.
OK, I'm an electrical dummy ...
I have finished basement w/a bathroom. We have an ejector pump off the bathroom that has been plugged into an outlet w/gfi since I've owned the house (10 years). There is also a booster fan for my electric dryer plugged into the outlet (has been the same for 10 years). The only thing that has ever tripped up that outlet is using a hair buzzer in another outlet within the bathroom (but once you hit the reset its fine). This morning I realize the ejector pump was not sucking down the water from the drains. I looked at the outlet and realized it needed to be reset. When I reset it, the pump would run for a few seconds and the outlet would trip up again. Tried this a few times. Thought maybe it was an issue w/the outlet altogether. Neighbor suggested maybe it was an issue with the pump. Went thru various scenarios and bottom line is when I plug the pump into other outlets it works totally fine and once I do that and reset the outlet it was on, the booster fan works fine and the outlet does not trip. So, basically this outlet is tripping when the pump is on it but the pump is not tripping other outlets and the outlet works fine as long as the pump is not on it. What could be causing this? Why would an outlet that housed the two things on it all of a sudden continue to trip when the pump is on it but the pump is fine on its own in another outlet and the outlet is fine on its own w/o the pump?
I have no power on the wiring on a GFCI outlet. I tested the breaker and it has power. I also tested all other GFCI outlets and they are working. What could be my problem?
I was cleaning my garage and think I got some water into an outlet. This caused 2 gfi outlets to trip, a regular outlet to stop working, and one side of a double pole circuit breaker to trip. Now the gfi's can't be reset by pressing the button, and the breaker can't be turned back on either. Does the breaker need to be shut off in order to reset the outlets? It's been like this for 3 months now. Please help!
i will have one of those fridges that have water supply for drinking water filtration and ice and the valve for that will be real close to the power outlet. my question is, does the outlet then need to be GFCI considering that it is that close but still it will never be wet because of the hose connecting it is sealed closed ?
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