How Do I Replace The Bulbs In This Recessed Fitting ?

Hi

just looking at the wiring in our new house. The bathroom light fitting wiring currently features 2 lives tied together as well as 2 earths tied together. Neither combination is used with the actual light fitting. Can sort of understand this tying together in a "1-way" sense but am intrigued why they used the 2 neutrals for hooking up to the light fitting?
      

Hi everyone,



I'm pretty new to the whole homeowning/do it yourself lifestyle, and have a question about the light fixture in my kitchen.  Recently 2 twisted cfl bulbs went out, probably within 1-2 days of each other, and I am having a hard time figuring out how to replace the bulb.  I believe the lights in my kitchen are considered recessed lighting.



So when the first light went out, I hastily grabbed my step ladder and tried to twist the bulb out.  I should have looked more closely at the fixture because when I started to twist, the bulb popped in my hand.  No big deal, just a bunch of debris all over the place.  I looked at the fixture and it said I should pull straight down to remove.  Doh!  The second light went out a day or two later and this time I pulled straight down on the bulb to remove.  To my surprise the bulb came out, but at the ends of the bulb were 2 bare wires.  I had never seen this bulb in stores before.



Anyways here are some pictures I took of my fixture.  Can anyone tell me how I am to replace my busted bulbs?  Thanks!












      

I have a kind of strange question:  How many watts is a 2x40W incandescent bulb?  Is it 40W?  Why is there a '2x' before 40W?



One of the bulbs in my light fixture above the bathroom sink burned out.  The light fixture uses three bulbs (decorative globe type).  I uncrewed the bad bulb, and it says '2x40W' on the base of the bulb (the metal part).  I went to Home Depot and they have the bulb type in 40W and 60W but both say 1x (1x40W and 1x60W).  The electrician at Home Depot wasn't sure what 2x could refer to on my bulb and suggested it might be that my bad bulb was in a 2-pack package.  Is that it?
      

I have a LEM .35hp meat grinder that did not come with reverse. It is a PITA to use and not have reverse. It is a 120v 250w motor, w 2 caps. There is no schematic on the cover, so I have no idea what which wire goes to where. I plan on using a DPDT switch to reverse it. on-off-(on or mom) switch. I have attached pictures of the motor wiring.  White/black come in then go into motor. White comes out of motor then to larger cap, other wire from large cap goes to red (into motor). Red comes out of motor into smaller cap, second wire to small cab is blue going into motor.



http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0021.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0020.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0022.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.
      

I'm using very bright incandescent lights through chickens lamps to increase my metabolism. The reds and yellows that come out of incandescent bulbs do this. My question is how can I increase the production of reds and yellows? Is there anyway I could change the wiring in the chicken lamp to force it to produce more reds? I heard that putting a 130 volt bulb in a 120 watt socket will produce more reds? Any other ideas of mods I could do to the lamp? I was also wondering if red heat lamps produce more reds and yellows then regular incandescent light bulbs or do red heat light bulbs just have red coated paint which makes them appear like their producing more red?
      

Hello there,



I just installed a new fixture in my dining room. It has 5 MR16 halogen bulbs. When i turn on the light switch, the lights are gradually turning on to full brightness. The process takes a between 5 to 10 seconds.



I removed one of the bulb and noticed it took a bit less time and continued until I had only 3 bulbs and then the lights are turning on instantly.



So I think its obvious that the fixture is drawing too much power from the circuit. My question is, why? What tests can I dk to find the cause? Is it a faulty switch or faulty wiring?



Thank you!
      

I am currently remodeling a bedroom in my home for a new baby.  I have gutted the room and am replacing all the electrical and adding new recessed lighting.  The room will also have a ceiling fan, along with the recessed lighting.  I am looking for a single gang light switch that will operate the ceiling fan independently of the recessed lighting, with a dimmer for the recessed lighting.  I don't have room for a double gang box where the switch is currently placed, as there is a closet in the way.  Is there such a thing as a switch that will operate the ceiling fan and it's lighting on a normal on/off switch, with a dimmer that can independently control the recessed lighting?  I have checked with the local big box stores and everyone has told me I will have to run two switches.  Is this the case?  Any info would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
      

I am redoing my basement, and i am making the electrical runs for the recessed lights in the ceiling. I am using 14 gauge wire, and i have 16 recessed lights with 65 watt bulbs in them, however they are rated at 75 watts max. assuming someone after us may put in the max bulb, the total watts would be 1200, equaling 10 amps. When all of the new wiring is done, i am going to have an electrician connect the circuits to the circuit breaker (using 15 amp breakers) however since i am not comfortable doing this myself, and i would like to use the lights now, can i connect them to the existing 12 gauge wire (this will not overload the breaker... i already checked what else was plugged in to the electrical outlets).



to recap:

The power draw will only be 10 amps at MAX. capacity

existing wiring is 12 gauge/ 20 amp breaker

electrician WILL connect 14 gauge wire to breaker using 15 amp breaker



*THIS WILL BE TEMPORARY*
      

hi guys,



Im a 1st year apprentice sparks so pretty inexperienced! i have a job on during the week to wire a bathroom extractor fan in for my friend. He wants it to come on separately from the bathroom light.



Theres a 2 gang switch outside  the bathroom, one for landing lights other for bathroom. So im thinking of replacing this with a 3 gang switch for the fan.



Im gonna take permanent feed from one of the two other switches ie(bathroom or landing) to the fan switch 'common' to power it, then also take a permanent feed for the fan from the 'common' side of this new switch as its a timer fan.



Then switch feed from L1 on new switch to fan. And finally neutral from bathroom light fitting to fan. I know that these 3 cables going to fan have to be isolated at another switch before going to fan!



Am I on the right track. Thanks in advance.
      

In a previous thread (Wire suitable for underwater usage), I enquired about what cord types would be suitable for underwater usage because I was building a submersible fishing light to attract baitfish.  Well, the light is done, and the bulb "farthest away" from the battery is by far the brightest in the chain (I hesitate to say chain since they are wired in parallel). 



Attached image "photo 1" is a picture of the light I made.  Notice the bulb all the way to the left is far brighter than the rest.



All bulbs used are the same spec, and look like this:



To wire the bulbs, I cut the flange off with a Dremel tool so that they would fit in the tube.  Two pair of them have their terminals soldered together (neg to neg, pos to pos...that's the "gap" you see in the lighting), and the first bulb in line is upside down, with it's terminals facing the incoming wiring.  The first bulb receives the wiring from the main line, then hookup wire is used to jump from those terminals to the next set, etc. 



There IS one anomaly with the final/far left bulb.  When I was cutting off the flange, I accidentally cut too far on that piece, basically severing the terminals from the bulb.  So, when wiring it into the circuit, I had to improvise and soldered the hookup wire directly into the solder points located on the bulb itself (instead of the underside).  Hopefully you can see what I'm talking about in attached "photo 2."



I have no idea why this anomaly would make the bulb brighter though.  Can anyone think of any other reason the bulb would be brighter?  Unfortunately, I cannot do any readings on the individual bulbs because I did not notice this until everything was soldered into place and the lamp sealed/waterproofed).