Harbor Breeze Moonglow Ceiling Fan

As far as I know every splice needs to be accessible. Is there a way to splice a 6/3 cable in the ceiling without having it in a box? I want to run the cable to the garage for an electric vehicle charger but the piece I had turned out short. I have an extra piece but the splice would be in the kitchen ceiling.

What I've seen in other countries is something like a cast resin shell/box in which the wires are spliced and then resin is poured in the shell/box to completely fill it.



Do you know of something that can be done in this case which can stay unaccessible in the closed and finished ceiling?
      

Hello,



I took a shot at installing a ceiling fan for the first time and I would like to get advice if I did the wiring correctly. There were Black, Copper, Red, and White Wires coming from the ceiling. I read the instructions and connected the wires as stated on the manual. I was left with the Red wire. I called a friend up and he told me to connect the Red wires from ceiling to the Black Connections from Ceiling and Fan. The fan works but something is irking me inside thats telling me this is not safe. Could anyone with any know how in this subject guide me in the right direction?
      

I just bought a couple of Hunter Stratford II 44" ceiling fans from Home Depot, and I've run across a problem in the installation. The downrod screws into the motor housing, and the manual says it is normal for 2-3 threads to remain visible when done. Well, both of mine started off easy enough, but I ended up with more like 5-6 threads remaining visible. This means only 4-5 threads secure the downrod to the fan, which amounts to 1 cm or a little less. There is a set screw that comes in from the side, and while it will touch the downrod, by design it does not go through the downrod. There is a "coating" on the threads inside the motor housing which I guess is a thread-lock adhesive. I'm going to call Hunter tomorrow to ask if this is all OK, but I'm curious if this is SOP for ceiling fans. Does it sound safe and secure for a fan to mount to the downrod simply by screwing in 1 cm or a little less with some thread-lock adhesive, further secured by a set-screw that applies pressure to the downrod but doesn't go through it?
      

I replaced a ceiling light with a fan/light with a remote. everthing works. their is one light switch and one dimmer switch. The dimmer switch has a red wire and a black wire connected to the black wires coming out of the dimmer switch, plus a green wire hooked to the metal portion of the dimmer. My question is: Do I have to remove the dimmer switch, if so, can I disconnect the red and black and hook them together? If I have to replace the dimmer with a regular switch, what kind of switch do I get?

Thank you
      

We are revamping our patio area a bit which is off of our sun room.  I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of installing in-ceiling speakers in soffits?  If so, could you provide some tips in doing so? Thanks!
      

How to install a ceiling fan light when the power 14/2 goes to the fan/light then to the fan/light control (blue, black, black/white, green)?
      

I had a previous thread about bonding my inground pool. I had it done yesterday. I set up all the plumbing for my filter and I am going to wire it up tomorrow.

This pump was wired up once before and it is being moved. All the wiring was removed when the contractors were breaking up the concrete. It has a 25 amp breaker that I am going to replace with a GFI 25 amp breaker. I am going to wire it from the breaker box to a switch (1 foot from the box) to the receptacle about 45 feet away. I am going to use 12 gauge solid wire. I am not sure which would be better. Should I use 12/3 romex and use one as the ground or use 3 separate wires colored white, black and green. Also they had the green wire going to the ground bar in the breaker box. I guess I will attach the green(ground) wire to the ground bar and then run it to the green lugs on each receptacle.  Also which types of boxes would be best to use metal or plastic. I am going to be using plastic pipe to run the wires.
      

I have 2 light switches in my entry and need to add a 3rd. So…I removed the old 2-space metal box and will be replacing it with a 3-gang old-work box.



      The issue I’m anticipating having is: The old knob & tube wires coming in aren't very long. As the locations of the openings for the wires in the 3-gang box is a bit different than the old box, I’m worried that the wires now won’t be long enough to now reach the light switches. So, my questions are...



 

   If I need to add 6” or so to some of these wires, is it okay to just splice a new piece of 14-gauge wire onto them?? I simply didn't know if you're allowed to do this.


If so, is this just a matter of using a plastic twist cap to connect them…with everything being done inside the new box?


  Thanks so much for your advice.
      

I am installing a ceiling fan for my mom and the wiring has me a little confused. I posted pictures below of the ceiling fan wiring and the light fixture wiring. Just need to know how to connect the two together without burning down the place. Thanks in advance






      

hi everyone.



i am installing 4" recessed lighting throughout my main floor.  my house was built in the 40's and the previous owner installed drywall over the existing lath and plaster ceiling.  so I've cut a trench down the center of my room to drill floor joists to run wiring and cut my holes for the new lights.

the lights are fire rated and do not require insulated cans for a traditional installation in a drywall ceiling.



question i have is with the additional 1/2 to 3/4" of lath and plaster above the drywall, should these lights now have insulated cans or should i be fine with the cans I've got?  there is no insulation in ceiling.



any suggested would be appreciated.



thanks

d