Inop Outlets Help
Hello all. I'm new on the forums and new to electricial. I bought a house recently and found some outdoor outlets that don't work. Only one does. I've searched the forums and found some troubleshooting steps such as reset all the GFI outlets in house, but that didn't resolve the issue. None of the outdoor outlets are GFI (they don't have a button). I only have one circuit breaker and I've looked around and didn't find a second one. None of the circuit breakers are label for the outdoor outlets and they are all in the "on" position. All the indoor outlets work fine. What other troubleshooting steps can I do before forking out $$ for an electrician? Thanks!
Similar Tutorials
How to Lay Sod - The Right Way!
- Make sure the green side faces up! And, there are a few more steps if you want to ensure a nice looking lawn. Prepa ...
The Difference Between Volts, Amps, and Watts
- This article explains the difference between Volts, Amps, and Watts in an easy-to-understand non-scientific way. T ...
Water is Leaking from the Toilet – What do I do? (How to replace the wax seal for a toilet.)
- If there is water leaking from the toilet, you need to make sure that you know from where the water is leaking. Che ... Similar Topics From Forums
Going through a crazy heat wave here in SoCal, and one of my tenants called to tell me that the electricity isn't on in some of his rooms. He turned on his portable AC unit that he has been using all summer and something may have happened.
Downstairs:The dining room light switch, downstairs light switch do not work. All outlets around them do work though, which is odd cause I would have thought they'd be on the same circuit. Upstairs: The side bathroom light switch does not work, but outlets all work. In the master bedroom (where the AC unit is located), the master bathroom light switch does not work, nor does the master bedroom light switch. All of the outlets do not work either. I used my outlet tester and it gave me the hot/ground reversed lights. I think this means that the white/black wires are reversed on the outlets (has not changed recently). I went over, checked all of the breakers. Switched them to off, then back on, did not fix the issue. All breakers stay in the on position without tripping, so no shorts? Checked all GFCI's, hit test, then reset, did not solve the problem. We unplugged everything from all outlets, and retried, but it didn't work. I checked continuity between the main power lines, and the output of the circuit breakers, and all were fine. I did NOT check the voltages though, and will do so in the morning when I stop by again. Is there anything else I should check?
i just recently moved back into my home and found that all of my exterior power outlets seem to be dead. something must've happened while i was out of the house, but i've no idea what.
should be simple right? a breaker somewhere? interior outlets are all fine, no other apparent electrical issues. i've been to the breaker box, and there are no breakers specifically marked for the exterior outlets, and all of the breakers appear to be set/active. anyone have any suggestions as to where to look for the problem? adv-thanks-ance for your thoughts!
I am thinking of purchasing a WineKoolr used but after looking at the manual online it states that it must be plugged into a "Dedicated separately fused, grounded, 15 amp 100-120v line." The price I can get this at is awesome, but I live in apartment and am not sure, but think I only have 1 dedicated line at all, for the fridge. The previous owners said they just had it plugged into a normal outlet fine, but I want to know if it is a serious issue to do this? I really want a nice cooler for my beer cellar since I have no actual basement, so I am really hoping I can make this work in my home. Thanks for any help!
*Someone asked me on another forum what breakers I have for where I want to install it, and its in my second bedroom. The breaker for those outlets is a 15A. They also said that it probably says that in the manual to cover themselves legally but I should likely be just fine. ** Well I turned off the breakers until I found which was for the outlets in the spare room. As far as I can tell, the only things on this circuit are the spare bedroom outlets (not the lights), and 1 outlet in the hallway. Nothing is plugged into any of these and its a 20A circuit.
I have this cirucit with a GFCI outlet, then two regular outlets off the load. None of them work. The GFCI reset button was out, push it in, it pops back out.
I replaced the GFCI with a new one and it seems to be fine. (GFCI outlet and load outlets are working). Is this common? (I mean that a GFCI would go bad, and display this for behavior?) Thank you, and if this is a stupid question, you may electronically "dope slap" me!
I want to run a new 12/3 to wire a room added on the back of the house. One circuit will be 6 wall outlets. The other will be a ceiling fan and 4 recessed cans. Can I add 2 outdoor lights-using standard outdoor bulbs-to the same circuit as the ceiling lights? Do I use the wall switch(box properly sized) as the junction for the outlet wiring and feed to wall switch for outdoor lights?
Hi all,
I have two outdoor receptacles that are wired into a junction box in the crawlspace under my house. They are actually ran into a spare bedroom's circuit...therefore not gfi protected. There is a switch above the access (indoors) to the crawlspace that powers these outlets and also light that runs off of the junction point also. Would I be able to replace the switch with a dead front gfci switch to get these outlets protected. Would doing this be safe and up to code? Would I be better off undoing all of the previous owner's work and putting these on a dedicated gfci circuit? House was built in '87 and I am in the US.
I was cleaning my garage and think I got some water into an outlet. This caused 2 gfi outlets to trip, a regular outlet to stop working, and one side of a double pole circuit breaker to trip. Now the gfi's can't be reset by pressing the button, and the breaker can't be turned back on either. Does the breaker need to be shut off in order to reset the outlets? It's been like this for 3 months now. Please help!
We are just beginning to start with our kitchen remodel. Today, I mapped out all the circuits and this is what I found.
Circuit # 7 - 20 amp circuit to 1 back splash outlet then to 3 kitchen wall outlets, then to a closet outlet and closet ceiling light and then to a side porch light! Circuit # 8 - 20 amp to Dishwasher and Disposal Circuit # 9 - 20 amp circuit to microwave and kitchen ceiling lights. 2 patio recessed lights and dining room ceiling light. Circuit # 12 - 20 amp circuit to another back splash outlet then to 2 dining room wall outlets. Circuit # 14 - 20 amp to Refrigerator only Circuit # 18 - 15 amp to GFCI outlet in garage then that feeds 3 outlets for 3 bathroom outlets and 1 outside patio outlet. I going to have to add 1 more back splash outlet due to increase in counter space. I'll put the microwave on a dedicated circuit. So I need 2 additional breakers but I only have 1 blank spot in the breaker panel. I guess I can add one of those slim tandem breakers. So my question, is it ok to have additional wall outlets on the same circuit as a back splash outlet? If it's ok I'll lighten up circuit # 7 by putting some of those wall outlets on the additional back splash outlet. Oh, I have 2 20 amp circuits I did not get identified yet! I'll get to those tomorrow. thanks!
Appreciate any help with this.
Background: - new to us old house, got three quotes for an upgrade to 200A service plus addition of three new circuits in conduit with receptacles (Chicago area, conduit is code in just about every town around, I have no issue with that); - existing service to house was overhead, opted to keep it overhead and not bury it; - the quote says, exactly: "Installation of a 200 amp 240 volt overhead electric service complete with riser, outdoor meter socket with a 200 amp disconnect, 40 position circuit breaker type distribution panel..." etc.; I understood from discussing the work with the contractor we chose that install overhead service meant to include the work and materials needed to upgrade the line coming from the pole at the alley to the house to handle 200A capacity; paid 50% down on quote; - the morning the boss and tech show up for the work, boss says we already have a 200A overhead, which I seem to recall the home inspector mentioning months ago before the closing (makes sense because the overhead runs to a single room addition put on several years ago), but boss was the guy who came to the house to quote the job in the first place, didn't mention anything about the existing overhead capacity at the time; - the work gets done, seems fine; tech left without going over anything with us but whatever. Final bill matches the quote to the dollar. There is no indication that there were any surprises during the work. Since the quote says installation of overhead service and they didn't need to replace the overhead lines from the pole I think the final bill should be lower than the quote. The distance from the pole to the riser is about 40 feet. Should I expect from the wording in the quote that the final bill should be lower than the quote because they didn't have to touch the existing overhead? About how much lower? We didn't go with the lowest quote, didn't beat him up on price and the total bill is quite a pretty penny, so I think he would be making good money either way. I know there is no way for someone to tell me an exact dollar figure here based on a blog post, but I'd like to get some kind of idea so I can start my conversation about the final bill. Thanks for any help out there.
OK, I'm an electrical dummy ...
I have finished basement w/a bathroom. We have an ejector pump off the bathroom that has been plugged into an outlet w/gfi since I've owned the house (10 years). There is also a booster fan for my electric dryer plugged into the outlet (has been the same for 10 years). The only thing that has ever tripped up that outlet is using a hair buzzer in another outlet within the bathroom (but once you hit the reset its fine). This morning I realize the ejector pump was not sucking down the water from the drains. I looked at the outlet and realized it needed to be reset. When I reset it, the pump would run for a few seconds and the outlet would trip up again. Tried this a few times. Thought maybe it was an issue w/the outlet altogether. Neighbor suggested maybe it was an issue with the pump. Went thru various scenarios and bottom line is when I plug the pump into other outlets it works totally fine and once I do that and reset the outlet it was on, the booster fan works fine and the outlet does not trip. So, basically this outlet is tripping when the pump is on it but the pump is not tripping other outlets and the outlet works fine as long as the pump is not on it. What could be causing this? Why would an outlet that housed the two things on it all of a sudden continue to trip when the pump is on it but the pump is fine on its own in another outlet and the outlet is fine on its own w/o the pump? |