Help With Switch

I bought a replacement motor (Dayton 6k778k) for my attic fan.  I removed the old one and it has two wires coming out that connect to two wires that go down to the light switch that turns it on.  They were connected by those plastic twist things.  So, I open up my new motor assuming that there would be two wires coming out of it that I would just connect to the existing wires, however there are just a bunch of blade connectors and I have no idea what is supposed to connect to what and how.  I'm attaching three pictures. One is the old motor/wires, the second is the inside of the new motor, and the third is really the only thing that alludes to how this should he hitched up. 3 & 2 were pre-connected out of the box...which leaves 4 & 1.  Is one of the wires from the light switch supposed to connect to 4 and one to 1?  If so, which one goes to which? Do I need to put blade connectors on the end of the wires that go down to the light switch in order to connect them?  Any help is much appreciated.
      

Have a tricky 3 way setup that I'd like to get input and ideally a wiring diagram for. Here's the setup:



Switch box at bottom of stairs

Switch box at top of stairs.

1 light at top of stairs, 14-2 wire coming into top of stairs box

1 light at bottom of stairs, 14-2 wire coming into bottom of stairs box

Feed from panel (14-2) coming into bottom of stairs box

14-3 wire going between bottom and top of stairs box.
      

I'm wiring two lights to one switch with power coming into the switch. All the diagrams I see show the connection of the two lights at one of the lights(if that makes sense). Can all of the connections be made at the switch box if theres room? Basically a wire from each light and the power wire all run to the switch box and connected.
      

I just ordered some Arlington Siding Mount Kits with built in electrical boxes to install some lights on the outside of my garage. 



So, the issue is, the mount kits' built in electrical boxes are only 6.8 cu each and I'm wiring the lights up with two 3-way switches.  The source is at the first switch, then on to the two lights and then to the second switch.  There is not enough room to do the splices and connection in the built in boxes (I'm using 12awg, but even if used 14 still not enough room), so my plan was to wire everything to a central junction box inside the garage between the two lights and make the appropriate connections there. 



I'm attaching my rough sketch of the planned connections (omitting ground wires).  Can you guys please confirm this is correct?    Thanks for the help!



To clarify the drawing, blue is white (neutral) and the blue with black tape coming off second switch is marked as hot.  (I'll also mark it as hot in the J-box).  Yellow Triangles are wire-nuts.
      

I replaced a ceiling light with a fan/light with a remote. everthing works. their is one light switch and one dimmer switch. The dimmer switch has a red wire and a black wire connected to the black wires coming out of the dimmer switch, plus a green wire hooked to the metal portion of the dimmer. My question is: Do I have to remove the dimmer switch, if so, can I disconnect the red and black and hook them together? If I have to replace the dimmer with a regular switch, what kind of switch do I get?

Thank you
      

i have 3 switch sets in my house that are giving me absolute fits.



#1  kitchen switch, controls the light over the outside door




    Code:

   

3 sets of lines coming in,



line from the breaker panel (power)



line to the ceiling lights 



line to the outside porch light.

i cannot get this 3 line to work without tripping the breaker every time i turn the switch off



#2 bathroom switches




    Code:

   

power feed line



line to the light over the medicine cabinet



line to the second switch to control the exhaust fan.

same issue as the first set, flip the switch and trip the breaker (different breaker from the kitchen switch)



#3 living room switch and plug controlled via switch




    Code:

   

 power feed line



outside porch light line



line to wall switch to control the lower wall outlet

flip switch, trip breaker



the switches i have are "1 pole" am i using the wrong switches for this job?
      

I am trying to understand how to wire a certain situation.  I have found how to wire 1 light coming from the service line and into the switch (white connected to light, black spliced into switch with white returning to light marked as hot) but I would have 2 lights before the switch.  How do you wire that appropriately?
      

Hey,

I'm located in Ontario/Canada and I'm in the process of installing some recessed lights in my uninsulated basement. I was going through the electrical code and noticed that in an 8in^3 electrical box, it is only permitted to have 2 wires and 2 wire nuts.



I have 3 wire nuts (ground, neutral and hot) and two wires coming into each switch.



It seams odd that the light box would not be sized correctly considering its CSA approved. Have any of you come across a similar problem ?



As a side note, I'm also finding it hard to jam 6-8in of cable and 3 wire nuts in this small box !
      

Need some help solving this clicking.

So I have just installed 16 pot lights in my kitchen and dining room.

I have 8 on one circuit going directly from the panel to the switch then the switch to the pots. 15amp breaker. Same for the other 8.

The brand is hallo 4 inch and they have quick connect for the 14-2 wire. All the pots are grounded and the beaker is grounded at the panel.

So I will have the pot lights on for say 1/2 hour or so, doesn't matter what 8 I have on but once I turn them off about 2 - 10 minutes later I hear I clicking noise coming from different pots at different times. I have followed all the directions and did not overload either circuit because I have 8 cans on each.

If anyone could shed some light on this for me that would be great. I just don't know how this clicking sound can happen if the light are turned off. Never happens when they are on. Could it be that they are cooling down?.
      

Just remodeled my kitchen and now at the point to install some under cabinet lights. I had ran an extra romex line with the intention of using it for the cabinet lights on a lutron dimmer.



I did google some forum discussions, but they were a few years old. I'm sure better products has been released since then.



Led's preferable, but will also consider xenon if they led's can not be harwired with a dimmer.  I need about 7'.



Thanks