Looking For A Cheap Fix

Hey, so I have a keyboard I want to power via an AC adapter, so medium story short, the back of the keyboard has the Centre positive symbol (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Centre-positive.svg), and the adapter has the Centre negative symbol (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Centre-negative.svg) (although the centre 'C' is reversed, so the open centre dot goes directly to the + on the left.). See diagram.



Should the polarity symbols match? All other specs are as per the product page/manual (http://www.akaipro.com/mp6-1): 6V DC 1A. Although no mention of the mA's on the adapter.



Oh, and the nib (ending bit of the adapter is yellow, and not black as per the product page linked above).



I sent a message to the manufacturer, but did not include the polarity part. The adapter was from an authorised dealer.



Thanks!




      

Hey there,

I'm kind of a noob to the electrical feild so i'm sorry if this is a really basic question but I wanted to know if I could connect this circuit

















to something like this



http://www.pegasuslighting.com/elect...paltr60pi.html



Could anyone give me any ideas on how i could do it?
      

I'm installing a new outdoor light on the house (replacing a single flood with a motion sensor security light). I didn't realize until I took the old one off the house today that it's got a small rectangular junction box. The brackets that came with the new (round-based) light won't even fit in there. Is there any kind of adapter you can get, or is it a DIY kind of thing?



My biggest concern is keeping insects and water out of there. It's under the overhang, but I'd rather keep it sealed well if I can.
      

I am replacing a feed through breaker panel the bus bar and breaker was inverted but the main breaker is up and down with on being down and I also noticed that the plastic in the back that holds the bus bar is cracked.



I bought a newer model from the same manufacture that has a much better design and a better main breaker.  But unlike the one I already have when you invert it the breaker slots don't line up and cover does not fit properly.



I was thinking about just cutting out the center where the breaker slots are.  I measured and if I cut it just right all I have to do is turn it over and it will line up just have to bolt or weld it in place.  Would this be legal



I also thought about putting the panel the way it came and feeding the bus bar hot and keeping the panel under the 6 throw rule.  Or would that not work because I am using feed through.  There will be 4 double pole breakers and the one main that feeds a sub panel.





I really hate the cheap design of this panel.







I plan to replace it with this.




      

I have a 15 amp circuit feeding a bathroom and I want to upgrade it to a 20.  Can this be done without opening up the sheet rock walls and space between the first story ceiling and second story flooring?



It was wired, when it was code in the early 90's, with #14.  I am thinking that I could go from station to station and connect the end of the new 12 to the end of the old 14, and then pull it through BUT PERHAPS FOR STAPLING, assuming the cable is stapled every foot and a half.  If it is, and the run isn't too long, is it often possible to just tug on the cable to loosen the staples?



Assuming that can be done, do I have to open up the walls and ceiling to staple the new #12 cable to the framing. 



I am trying hard to avoid opening the drywall.  The newer paint in this particular room is impossible to match and I would have to repaint the entire room should I have to cut the wall.
      

Help!  We decided to raise the ceiling in our kitchen for some new taller cabinets. We have 30" cabinets with a 7' drop ceiling. By taking out the drop ceiling we can go to an 8' ceiling with 36" cabinets.  We just had the ceiling taken out and now I see I got a problem!



This is a 2 story home, the wall in question is a load bearing wall (runs through the center of the house) The main breaker panel is in this wall (the panel opening is in the adjacent family room)



As you can see in the photos I cannot extend the wall up because all of the home wiring is in the way!  I expected I might have to run longer wires but not this. 



Some ideas we've thought about...

notch the double 2x4s (not sure how much I need to notch or allowed to)



build a cove (box) and leave the wires like they are (might be an eyesore in our new kitchen)



put up a large crown moulding along the entire wall (would be the only crown moulding in the house)



extend the ceiling up 6-7" instead of 12" (should leave enough room for wire to stay)



I'm leaning to the notching option if I can find a way to reinforce that section.



Any ideas?



thanks!
      

Hi,



Forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere - a cursory check didn't

bring up an answer, but maybe I didn't search on the right thing...



I've got to replace a baseboard heater that was located under a receptacle.



I was first thinking this is covered by the "grandfather" clause, but a bit more checking has me confused - it looks like maybe the NEC doesn't specifically prohibit this (maybe they do in the newest code book), but pretty much all manufacturers now seem to specifically say not to do this, so it would seem to be prohibited.



So what do you do?  Here's a couple of pics of where I have to put this unit:



http://www.rkgphotos.com/recent_stuf...er_corner2.jpg

http://www.rkgphotos.com/recent_stuf...er_corner1.jpg



a 1500W unit is what should go here.  just pulling the receptacle/putting on a cover plate means there's gonna be more than 12 feet between receptacles along this wall.



Its also complicated by this being both an outside wall and a common element so I didn't want to butcher it up completely.



It seemed like I could: 1) use 2 heaters with a gap under the receptacle (though the spacing kind of sucks for this), 2)pull the receptacle, put on a cover plate and forget about it (practically not a problem but violates the 12 foot rule), 3) use the receptacle box as a J box and run a line down to where the heater is and use one of those funky receptacles you mount to one end of the heater, or 4)??



Anyway, suggestions/observations would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks,

rkg

(Richard George)
      

Would it be cost effective to use 12/2 wire to run 15amp circuits?



I read that using 12/2 wire instead of 14/2 wire on a 15amp circuit will reduce the energy loss from voltage drop over the distance travled. A 2% voltage drop



The book gives the example of 200 ft carrying 120volts on 14 AWG will drop 8 volts, with 12 AWG the loss would only be 3 volts. and then adds this "The apparent savings in initial cost by using undersize wire is soon offset by the cost of power wasted in the wires and by the reduction in efficiency of lamps, motors and so on."



the book is "Wiring Simplified" by H.P Richter
      

Hey guys,

we have a 4-plex in San Diego that we bought several months ago that was built in 1950. According to inspector's report, we needed electrical upgrades. One of the electricians told us city is under a project to underground all the electrical lines, and if we do not do upgrades the way city EXPECTS us, once our neighborhood is due for undergounding, we will have to REDO the whole thing again (like changing the location of the MAIN electrical panel from where it is now).

Can they FORCE these upgrades to the owners? I am talking about a 15000-20000$ that will be required... It is not cheap...



What we wanted to do is the very minimum, but to make sure our tenants are safe: just replace fuses in each unit with BREAKERS and leave it in the closets as we "grandfathered" them in and replace the main panel fuse with a breaker.

But according to the advise of an electrician based on the city undergrounding requirements, we will have to RELOCATE the fuses from closets to the OUTSIDE of the building AND RELOCATE the main panel from where it is now to an opposite direction (closer to the main street).

Can the city ENFORCE us to do this?
      

I have an older house I which I need to replace/update some romex wiring. I was planning on turning of the power to the circuit, remove the devices from the wall box and then remove the box. I was hoping to use the old wire to pull the new wire. My problem is how to remove the old wire from the cable staple so it will be lose to use for pulling. Any suggestions?