Led Firxture For Par Can

I have a 30amp wall socket in my garage, connected to two 20amp fuses in my garage sub box. I bought a 60 gallon air compressor rated 230v 15amp (non-reversible???). I am under the impression that I can use this compressor with the socket I have. The compressor did not come with a plug but did have the wires. One red, one green, one white. The plug I bought to the match the socket has instructions for one black wire (hot) one green (ground) and one white (neutral) I guess my question is, would the red wire be my hot wire? Does everything else sound ok?
      

Do I need to install the lugs in 320a meter socket
      

I have a fan assisted oven which draws about 12A maximum but the nearest socket outlet is already part of a ring main which is pretty fully loaded so I decided that it'd be best to plug it into the other ring main in my house and the nearest socket is about 15metres away, would a 2.5mm flex be ok for this or should I opt for a 4mm? Or would a 4mm have a knock on effect on something else
      

I have a pendant light over my kitchen sink, it's been in place for about 8 months. It seems to burn out bulbs a little quick, and they're usually a white smokey look when they do burn out.  Also, the cable next to the light is turning from a clear to a brown. I'm not sure if it's just from heat, and is ok... or if it's a hazard?  I don't see any evidence of melting on the cable or in the light socket.



I checked voltage, and it's around 121.5.  The fixture uses 60 watt max candalabra bulbs, and that's what I use in it.
      

Hi All,



Need to replace an old faulty two switch fixture in the bathroom (light and exhaust fan). Right now, each switch on the single fixture separately operates either the light or the fan, regardless of the position of the other switch. Want to keep things that way. 



Here is a picture of the old fixture's wiring: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1179096/photo1.jpg



To replace this fixture, I bought to the Leviton 5634 (design diagram he  http://communities.leviton.com/servl...224%205634.pdf)



Unfortunately, what is confusing me is the the different designs between the two fixtures and the fact that the original unit seems to have some kind of patch or cross over type wire connecting the top and the bottom switches (see photo link above).



Any help/advice on how to wire this new fixture based on the picture of the current wiring configuration would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!
      

I have an outdoor light fixture that I am trying to replace.  The house was built ten years ago.



When I removed the original lamp, I noticed one of the two leads was wired to the ground, and one was wired to the black wire, which is hot per my current sensor.  There are three wires in the box - black, ground (bare copper), and white or neutral, all from a single romex cable.  Unfortunately, I do not recall where the white was when I removed the original. 



I wired the new lamp per the instructions, something I have done many times before - black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Nothing.  The lamp and bulbs are brand new, and I have tried four separate bulbs.  I checked the black and neutral with my current sensor and with the switch on and the lamp installed this way, both show as hot. With the lamp not installed, the switch on, and the wires disconnected only the black shows as hot.  The switch is single pole, and appears to be wired correctly with a black to each screw on one side and a copper ground on the other.



Assuming the new fixture was bad, I reinstalled the old fixture correctly -  black to black, white to white, and bare copper ground to ground.  Still nothing. No light, and I confirmed the bulb is good by putting it in another lamp.   The only way to get it to light is to connect the neutral in the lamp to the bare copper ground.



I capped the wires, turned the circuit back on, and identified all the outlets, switches and fixtures on the same circuit.  I opened every one of them up (four lights and eight outlets) and found three (one switch and two fixtures in another room) where multiple commons connect.  All were properly connected.  My outlet tester shows all outlets as "correct".  I found no instances of grounds connected to commons or vice-versa.



Any ideas?  Is it proper to wire this thing the way I found it?



Thanks for any and all advice!
      

I am installing 200 amp residential service.  From the meter socket I am doing a very short run into the crawlspace to a 200 amp fused disconnect switch. From the disconnect switch I am doing a 60 foot run to the 200 amp panel. The run between the disconnect and the panel is all within the crawlspace interior ( heated ). Do I have to use ACWU cable or is there a cheaper alternative? I also need to isolate the bonding so is 4 wire configuration very common ?   This is a Canadian question specific to British Columbia codes.
      

I have a wall outlet I exposed recently. It was meant originally to supply an in-wall air conditioner (long since removed). The outlet is clearly a 120V, 20A fixture. The romex supplying it, however, has been marked in indelible ink by the installer: "220" on both sides of the wire sheath. The wire is 12/2 with ground. What did he mean by this? Could this really a 220V (or 240V) receptacle? Is that possible, using 12/2 and a standard 120V outlet? How do I verify what I've got?



All I want to do is relocate the box and replace the fixture, but the 220 notation sort of threw me. Does anybody have an idea what's going on here?



I appreciate your help. I'm new here, so please try not to smack the rookie around too much.
      

I'm installing a new light in a closet with an in-line switch. Because of the build of my house, a mid-run receptacle is the only power source available without ripping open a bunch of wall and ceiling. I've got everything installed and tied into the receptacle with appropriate pig tails, but whenever I turn the power back on, the breaker for that circuit instantly flips. I've double-checked all the connections and wires, and they are connected to the appropriate terminals. Tied the pig tails into the terminals on the top socket of the receptacle.



Could this be the result of a faulty switch? The breaker trips whether the switch is in the off or on position, and there are no bulbs in the light fixture. I'm stumped. The receptacle in question is rarely used, and I've powered off everything else in the room to be on the safe side, but the breaker trips.
      

Hello,



I am replacing a bath light and I am a bit confused by the wiring. I can reattach the wires with the new fixture exactly like the old fixuture was attached but the old fixture did not have a ground connection.



Here is how the wires a



Two whites connected to each other but not to the fixture.

One white and one bare copper wire (I thought it was the ground) connected together and to the white wire of the ligh fixture

one black wire connected to the black wire of the light fixture



How to I connect the the fixture green wire in this configuration?



Thanks