Rough Inspection- 240v Range Line

I'm preparing for finally calling in for my rough in inspection and was hoping I could get a checklist or at least some suggestions as to what work should and should not be completed for a rough-in inspection.  Does any wiring need to be spliced, wire-nutted, terminated within the panel or lighting or receptacle boxes?  My project was running power from main panel to lug and from lug to sub in detached res. garage and installing 4-5 lighting and recep circuits.
      

I have an older home (100 yrs) and I would like to upgrade the 100 amp service to 200. My question is when it comes time for the inspector to visit and inspect the new work, could the original wiring of the house be part of the inspection and result in a "fail" of the inspection.

To elaberate, the old wiring is romex and BX yet in the basement it is not run very neat and I see many places where I would add a staple or three. Some of the junction boxes don't have covers etc. Basicly fairly messy.
      

i have 3 switch sets in my house that are giving me absolute fits.



#1  kitchen switch, controls the light over the outside door




    Code:

   

3 sets of lines coming in,



line from the breaker panel (power)



line to the ceiling lights 



line to the outside porch light.

i cannot get this 3 line to work without tripping the breaker every time i turn the switch off



#2 bathroom switches




    Code:

   

power feed line



line to the light over the medicine cabinet



line to the second switch to control the exhaust fan.

same issue as the first set, flip the switch and trip the breaker (different breaker from the kitchen switch)



#3 living room switch and plug controlled via switch




    Code:

   

 power feed line



outside porch light line



line to wall switch to control the lower wall outlet

flip switch, trip breaker



the switches i have are "1 pole" am i using the wrong switches for this job?
      

sir

i have seen on this site------------------------------------------------------------120/240 for houses:  120 is line to ground, 240 is line to line



so got the point from this point that we have three phase connection so

120 is phase voltage and 240 is line voltage



but line voltage is=squareroot of 3 *phase voltage and (240 is not equal to sqroot of 3*120)

please send the answer on  ---------   as soon as possible
      

I want to run a Cat 5 line from my phone box outside to a jack inside to connect my phone and DSL. Right now I just have a regular phone line for both and the phone company recommends running a new line because the internet is always slow and I can't call out on my phone.



How do I know which wires to hook up outside?



Kevin
      

I'm in the final stages of a rough in.... three questions:



1) Do the feeds to the panel need to be in the panel but not connected or is it ok to just have them pulled over by the panel



2) I've got can lights in a drop ceiling - do I just staple the cable to the joist in the area the light will go and coil up the excess?



3) I have an outlet and a switch that I can't disconnect right now(sump pump and a stairway light) but these will be going on new circuits I pulled. Obviously I can't get the box ready, can I just pull the cable and have it there by the existing box? I thought about putting in a new box, but there really is no space for the outlet and we like where the switch is.



I'd call the inspector and ask his preference but it is a voicemail box that has been full for a week.



Thanks.
      

I'm replacing my electric range with gas.  The electric has (I think) a four-wire #6 or #8 cable approx 60ft run with a 40a dual post breaker.  I say "I think" because the wire is behind everything else in the panel.  I see red/white/black wires, but no ground and I can't read the jacket.  Once I cut the main, i'll have a closer look. 



The gas range requires only a 15amp breaker. 

Can I simply replace the breaker with 15A and the 4 prong outlet with a Nema 5-15p?  I'd cap off both ends of the red wire.  Is there some sort of code that says I need to maintain the 40A circuit for a future stove?

Or is there some sort of transformer I can plug into the stove end and avoid all that hassel.  ?
      

How do I replace a range hood for an over the range microwave?
      

I have a covered (rafters, decking, shingles, etc) screen room out back. It used to have a single light, which I wanted to replace with a ceiling fan with light kit, independently switched. So I bought this fan/light dimmer: http://www.lowes.com/pd_69955-539-S2...d=10151&rpp=24



I checked the wire at the old light, and as it was 14-2, I removed it and replaced it with 14-3. It wasn't until after I spent 3 hours crawling around the attic on my stomach running the new line that it hit me....the circuit is on a 20 amp breaker. The line running to the switch, and a jumper running from it to 5 wall outlets in the living room, is all 12-2.



The new line runs straight from the switch to the fan box, with no other outlets. So while I doubt it is up to code, it seems like it should be ok. The fan/light won't pull anywhere near enough power to overheat the 14 gauge line, and if there is an actual fault, it should trip the 20 amp breaker anyway.



I would very much like to hear from the experts. Running the 14-3 was a serious pain in the butt, and replacing it with 12-3 would be just as bad. So if this is safe, I'd rather not replace it. But if I am risking a fire, it is obviously worth the hassle.
      

I am installing a new shed and redirecting an existing electrical line from an old shed to the new shed.  There is a GFI receptical (non-outlet type) in a weather-proof metal box attached to the house that is fed by a dedicated line from the circuit breaker box.



I never paid much attention to why the lighting in the old shed never worked until I decided on getting a new shed.  This weekend I went out with my multimeter to test the line and load sides of the GFI recepticle and measured only about 12 volts on both sides. (I did test the multimeter on some inside outlets and measured 120 volts).



I tried many times to reset the GFI without success.



Is the GFI bad?  Is it normal for a bad GFI to measure such low voltage on both the line and load sides?



Thanks for your help.