Ac Adapter Question (polarity)

I bought a portable car jumper and within the first 2 weeks of having it, the ac dc adapter fell out of the wall and the plastic casing on the adapter portion which plugs into the wall, broke.



I have priced replacing the ac dc adapter which at a minimum will cost me 30 dollars, or replacing the entire unit which will cost me about 80 dollars. I was planning on just using some electrical tape to cover up the opening, but I want to see if anyone else had some better ideas. Please see the attached picture and tell me what you think.



Obviously my concern is electric shock.




      

Hey there,

I'm kind of a noob to the electrical feild so i'm sorry if this is a really basic question but I wanted to know if I could connect this circuit

















to something like this



http://www.pegasuslighting.com/elect...paltr60pi.html



Could anyone give me any ideas on how i could do it?
      

I'm installing a new outdoor light on the house (replacing a single flood with a motion sensor security light). I didn't realize until I took the old one off the house today that it's got a small rectangular junction box. The brackets that came with the new (round-based) light won't even fit in there. Is there any kind of adapter you can get, or is it a DIY kind of thing?



My biggest concern is keeping insects and water out of there. It's under the overhang, but I'd rather keep it sealed well if I can.
      

Hi, I am trying to get the symbol on a electrical plan that indicates a paging system cable and a wireless access point symbol. I have looked around with no luck.



Thanks,
      

Hello everybody! First things first..I don't know much about wiring besides there being a positive, negative and a ground.



I am in the process of gathering information about installing two lights on the soffit of the corners of my house. There is an outside light by the sliding glass door that I was going to tap into for power, since the switch for it is in the kitchen.



My question is will this be possible if I was to run two twin head flood lights off of the same switch.   (  http://www.lampsplus.com/products/br...ht__h9572.html   )





What would be the easiest way to run the wiring for this? Through the soffit or just through the attic? The problem with the attic is there is vaulted ceilings in a few rooms of my house so it is pretty much impossible to walk in the attic to the far side of my house...actually I don't even think it is possible with the amount of insulation and how the ceilings are.



How would I go about mounting the light to the soffit? A junction box? Will I have to run conduit?



Here is a picture of what I am trying to do. Excuse my art skills in paint.





Thank you!
      

One link I found that has possible changes

http://www.ecmag.com/?fa=article&articleID=10115



Another

http://www.iaei.org/magazine/?p=4454




    Quote:

   

   
      

         
            New: 404.2(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads

A new subdivision will require a grounded conductor to be provided to switch locations that control lighting, unless the wiring is installed in a raceway or the physical construction of the building allows for relative ease of future addition of other conductors
         
      

   
   


Seems a Neutral (grounded conductor) may need to be included on switched loops

Still looking for more info



DRAFT:



http://www.4shared.com/file/23118541...011_Draft.html
      

Hi,



Upgraded my cordless Dustbusters at home with the new CHV1410 model, it works great except what was my surprise when I found out Black & Decker is no longer making Dustbusters that charge automatically on the wall mount.



Instead (and I was told this by their customer support when I called them) ALL the new models have a DC plug. I hate these, not only do you have to take the extra step of plugging in the vaccum each time when you hang it on the wall... mine being mounted down inside a bathroom cabinet, this makes it a pain hunting for the wire... but these DC plugs are weak, I've seen them give out with daily repeated plug-in-unplug use.



I decided to wire up the old style wall charger on the new vaccuum, using a few of the parts from the old dustbuster. I figured out how to do it (its not as hard as it sounds) but I was wondering about the polarity of the charger. If you hook the DC charger up to the wall mount backwards, will it destroy the battery? How do you verify which wire goes on which side.



Thanks for any advice - jeffpas
      

We had a pipe disconnect above the downstairs bathroom and the ceiling just about came down, so I decided since it was a hedious looking space, that it was a sign from the gods: Reno time!



Im now at the wiring stage. Originally there was a junction box with a light fixture out one side and a single pole switch(no ground screw...grnd wire attached to the box)on  the other. Typical set up: white from switch marked "hot" or "black" at both ends, and spliced with the incoming power's black wire. Then remaining blacks are spliced together as are the remaining whites... grounded accordingly.



What Im trying to do now is add a GFCI receptical to the mix. But Im having some trouble figuring it all out. NOTE: light fixture is not installed yet, just the wire for it with the ends capped off with a wire nut on each of the wires (Wht/Black/Grnd)



First, whats in the walls: Circuits on a 15 AMP fuse with older (but not the oldest) 12/2 wire with a blue weaved fiber outside cover. Still looks to be in great shape. I've continued using newer, yellow (Lomex or Romex?) 12/2 from homedepot as I've read that you should not mix 14 and 12 together.

All that is on the cicuit is 3 pot lights with 65w bulbs, single bulb on the stairway and what ever goes in the bathroom, so from my math, there should be plenty of room left on the circuit.



What I've tried so far:

A: I spliced the "hot"/"black" white wire from the switch to the incoming power's black, like before. Then I spliced all remaining blacks together with a wire nut, then the same with all remaining whites and then all grounds (did not attach any grnd wire to the Junction box).



Result, Nothing. After switching on the power, I tested the GFCI with a voltage tester as well as the switch and got no read.



B: Undid everything, re-spliced all like to like: all blck together, all white together..etc.



Result: Fuse trips.



Im no electrician, which I imagine is blatantly obvious from the above post, but I am following a Homedepot wiring manual, its just that what Im trying to do is not really addressed in the book... at least not directly. So I've been trying to figure it out by reading every single page, but Im still at a loss.



I've attached a very basic diagram of what is there right now. Any advice would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

John
      

I have a LEM .35hp meat grinder that did not come with reverse. It is a PITA to use and not have reverse. It is a 120v 250w motor, w 2 caps. There is no schematic on the cover, so I have no idea what which wire goes to where. I plan on using a DPDT switch to reverse it. on-off-(on or mom) switch. I have attached pictures of the motor wiring.  White/black come in then go into motor. White comes out of motor then to larger cap, other wire from large cap goes to red (into motor). Red comes out of motor into smaller cap, second wire to small cab is blue going into motor.



http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0021.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0020.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMAG0022.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.
      

First off, I have read a majority of the posts concerning this subject and they have been very helpful and answered many questions, but I still have a few.



I am wanting to run power to a detached shed that is around 100 feet from the house. However, due to the location of my main panel and the easiest route to run the power, I am looking at running cable about 270 feet. I measured it out to exactly 263 feet, but figured it would be best to go longer. I am wanting to run at least 60 amps to the shed, as I won't be using it for nothing more then power outlets (basic power tools) and lights. Here are my questions:



1) What cable would be best for such a long distance run?



2) Would a 60 amp subpanel be sufficient for this job. I am looking at only 4 circuits: 1 for internal outlets, 1 for lighting, 1 for motion sensor light outside and 1 for external outlet. I am looking at the following panel:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051



I have seen some marked 70 amp and wondering if they make a difference:

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...&storeId=10051



3) Also, I will be installing a 30 amp RV connector circuit from my main panel  to the where I park my Camper Trailer, which is a run of about 75 feet. What would be the best cable for this sort of run under ground? Can I run both cable together in the same conduit until I junction if off to where I will be installing the plug for the camper?



4) Would the following be the circuit breakers to use:



60 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051



30 amp - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051



I think that is it for now. Thanks in advance for all your help!!