Lighting Survey For My College Thesis

One link I found that has possible changes

http://www.ecmag.com/?fa=article&articleID=10115



Another

http://www.iaei.org/magazine/?p=4454




    Quote:

   

   
      

         
            New: 404.2(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads

A new subdivision will require a grounded conductor to be provided to switch locations that control lighting, unless the wiring is installed in a raceway or the physical construction of the building allows for relative ease of future addition of other conductors
         
      

   
   


Seems a Neutral (grounded conductor) may need to be included on switched loops

Still looking for more info



DRAFT:



http://www.4shared.com/file/23118541...011_Draft.html
      

Hey all, new to the forum and had a few questions about the electric I plan on installing in my basement I am working on finishing.   Here is what the plans call for...



- Bathroom

  - 2 Lights, one GFCI, vent fan

- Home theater

  - Projector, Sound system, various other electronics

- General Lighting throughout

  - 14 Recessed lights approx 60 watt bulbs

  - 14 outlets

  - Mini bar fridge

I will have to run the line from the garage to the basement and my question is should I go 15 or 20 and will I need more than one line to support this?  Any info or direction you guys can give would be greatly appreciated!!



Tom
      

In most homes I've noticed that there is always a receptacle right next to the electrical panel and is usually the only thing on that circuit. 

Why is this?

And is there any reason you couldn't add additional items to that circuit, for instance, if you were finishing the basement?



Thanks in advance.
      

hi...



my electrician walked out on me because i asked him to itemize everything since i wasn't happy about his "extras" that he's charging me for...  i already paid him $9500 of the original $10k bid but he only finished about 80% of the work...



there were a number of extras that he recommended as well as some that i requested...  he decided to jack up the bid to $16.3k...  which included a charge of $1650 for cat6 wiring to 6 locations, $500 for a dedicated 15a circuit for a whirlpool bath...  there were 7 more switches, 13 more receptacles, 5 more recessed lights, 16 more lighting locations and 1 more smoke detector...  is that $6k worth of "extras"?



anyway, i've decided to go with someone else to finish up but so far nobody wants to finish up others' work...  worst case i'm thinking is i'll do it myself...  i already wired a 15a dedicated circuit for my whirlpool tub with no issues so i think i'm up to the challenge...



i just need some guidance to make sure i don't electrocute myself...



here's a photo of the panel...  what's going in the circled area?





also, other than the hots not being connected to the breakers (for the most part) does anyone see anything amiss with this panel?





thanks
      

Does standard drywall have 15 min. finish rating or is this identified as the "fire resistant" drywall.  And does a detached residential garage even require a 15 min. finish when nm is used?  I have read and read and it seems as though exposed nm is acceptable in an attached garage but not in a detached garage???  I still can't seem to wrap my head around the logic of some of the NEC codes....
      

I am working on fixing an issue with the wiring in one of the bedrooms in my older mountain home. Though I was not present for the cause of the problem, here is what was told to me by the tennant.  he claimed that he went to turn on the light in the closet, (a 3 lamp track bar light, wired to a switch) he heard a loud pop from the light in the closet and lost power to to the room. The room has 6 recessed ceiling lights on 2 separate switches, presently only half of the lights work.There are no breakers tripped, no obvious shorts at outlets. I have opened the drywall following the wires around hoping to find a short but I have found nothing. I decided to try something, and I bridged the working switch to a dead outlet and everything turned on. I am waiting til the daytime to follow the wires outside to the breaker box, but so far no breaks or anything.. curious if anyone has any pointers.. could the pop he heard from the track lighting have killed a breaker? its about the only thing left.
      

I am in the process of installing a submerisble pump into my well, but I have a few questions I'd like answered first.



The pump is a 1HP, 230V pump with 8.2amps and KW 0.75.  It is rated at 12/2 w/ ground. 



1) Is there any reason I shouldn't install a 230v wall mounted switch to turn this on/off if I want to kill the power.  For now a pump start will control it for my irrigation system, this would just be in addition if I ever wanted to shut things down and not have to rely on using the breaker, which I understand shouldn't be used as a switch.



2) What about installing this on a plug, so that I can plug it into a receptacle vs. hardwired.  (*I'll explain my reason later)



3) My understanding is 12gauge wire is rated for 20amp, but it looks like the owners manual calls for a 25amp fuse.  Should I use 20amp or 25amp?



*The reason I ask about the switch and the plug is because I plan on using some wiring that is already in place.  I already have 12/2 w/ground installed in the location of the pump start.  It is currently wired for 110v as it was placed there for a 3/4hp jet pump I planned on installing, but ended up going with a cased well instead, so I figure why not utilize the existing wire, but switch it to 220 instead of 110.  Basically, swap the 20amp 110v switch out for a similar rated 230v switch and replace the receptacle with a 230v receptacle and just plug this pump in. 



I question the use of the plug because I thought I had read somewhere it was ok to use one, but when unpacking the pump last night, I thought I read never to install it on a plug, so now I'm unsure.  Why would they not want it on a plug?  I guess it's not a big deal as I can always run wire into the j-box, but I hate using pigtails if I don't have to.



Thanks for any info on this...heading to the parts store in a while to grab the fuse and anything else I need.
      

I have been looking for a "GOOD" circuit breaker finder and have always had good luck with Amprobe products.

The one I was looking at is here http://www.zorotools.com/g/Circuit%2...ders/00052552/





There are six more on this link  http://www.zorotools.com/s/?c=&q=cir...er&1.x=0&1.y=0

The Amprobe unit is $63,does anyone have the Amprobe model ?

Do you you like it and is it reliable?
      

I am renovating my modest home's living room, but, since the walls and ceiling are basically stripped bare, I would like to consider "toys and luxuries" which would need to be wired in upfront here, such as ipad syncing controls for stereo or lighting, decent built-in speaker systems, etc.  What kinds of devices are contemporary homes incorporating nowadays?  I am not super-nerdy, but a couple "gee whiz" devices might be fun to have!   Suggestions?   Thanks in advance.
      

I have converter a 3 phase 220 volt  air compressor to single phase. I need a  timed relay to start the

the system when the air pressure drops. Since it is momentary, it needs to be a timed relay with a short (1-2 Seconds) to prevent burning out the capacitors.



Can someone help me with the timed relay I need or how I can have the motor start when the pressure drops and kicks out when it reaches the top limit